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Freelander 1 [SOLVED] External Temperature Reading

Discussion in 'Land Rover Freelander' started by Bounty, Oct 10, 2019.

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  1. Bounty

    Bounty Active Member

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    What you need:
    Freelander 1 - Facelifted (2003 - 2006, any trim, any platform [XEi, XDi, Td4, V6])
    x1 JTF000180
    IMG-20191011-WA0003.jpg
    x1 Temperature sensor connector from a Rover 75/MG ZT
    20191015_122218.jpg
    x1 Omnitec T4 Testbook on RDS v6.0.0
    x1 T4 Freelander Disk DTL35X

    What you do:

    Part l - Hardware

    Drop the bumper by unscrewing just about everything under the sun from the wings, across the front grille and anything else it can hang onto. Just behind the bumper bar on the offside you'll find a small plastic rail which will accept your JTF000180 sensor; attach it there.

    20191020_122847.jpg 20191020_123005.jpg 20191020_123346.jpg 20191020_123342.jpg

    Attach the wiring to the sensor and run it up into the engine bay, then across the radiator and back to the fusebox. At the back of the bay there are some rubber gromits - one leads to a position just under the glovebox. Make the smallest puncture possible to thread the cables through. Once those are through you can replace the bumper.

    Optional: Add some conduit over the wires to protect them from the weather.

    Remove the instrument pack by disassembling the shroud: three screws hiding at the top which lower to deconstruct the retaining ability and then will allow the pack to slide forward and out.

    Thread the cables however you wish through the dash until they meet the instrument pack. I went behind the blanking plate atop the glovebox and across the cup holders then in through the side of the instrument shroud.

    On one side of the pack is a crimson plug that can be carefully removed. Within the armour will be a series of numbered plugs - among them is pin #18 which may or may not be occupied. If it is not you will have to find a way to connect one of your wires with a spade into the slot. If it's occupied you can snip the existing wire open and solder in the new connection.

    You'll notice you have another wire, this is the earth. Attach it to wherever you feel is best. For me this was just under the steering column against a bolt.

    Reassemble your instrument pack.

    Part ll - Firmware

    With your T4 operator running the correct versions you can plug in to your car. Under "vehicle diagnostics" you'll find the 'LCS Coding' option, within that will be a single-toggle "IPK Temp" option which will likely read "Disabled". Tap it to set it to "Enabled" then press continue. Follow the T4's instructions and at one point when turning the key to position 2 you'll know that you succeeded if the temperature flickers up but ensure you continue the process until completed. If you are asked for your VN number, it is inside of the passenger door.

    If you do not receive anything within the temperature slot, the T4/Disk versions are not compatible with this upgrade.

    Your temperature may read one of two states: if the sensor hasn't been connected for long enough, or is not connected properly, you will receive a reading of -30ºC. If it has, it will either be on it's way to the correct reading or already there. You can now use the left stick in the instrument to flick between the two units of measurement, ºC or ºF. A snowflake will also be displayed under a higher limit between 3ºC and 4ºC.

    Be cool and have a chill day.


    What you need:
    x1 Freelander 1 facelift
    x1 JTF000180
    IMG-20191011-WA0003.jpg
    x1 Temperature sensor connector from a Rover 75/MG ZT
    20191015_122218.jpg
    x1 Posi-head screwdriver
    x1 Omnitec T4 Testbook (MUST be the T4)
    On top of having a T4 vendor, you must also ensure that the vendor is running the correct version of the T4 unit. For Land Rover this is RDS 6.0.0. MG/Rover typically use v5.0.6 for their servicing needs - but any garage may or may not have the ideal version for this. Call ahead of time and ask which version they are on. In addition they must stock the correct Land Rover diagnostic disc to load into RDS 6.0.0. For the Freelander 1 that disc's code is DTL35X. Without the perfect means of installation it is highly likely you'll be left with an incorrect validation string within your ECU and the IPK's VN number. If the T4 unit is improperly configured you are likely to enable the feature only to find that nothing is added to the LCD screen within the instrument pack even when the option is set to appear.​
    x1 Soldering iron

    What you get:
    External temperature reading above the odometer that can switch between ºC and ºF. It even displays a snowflake if it's cold enough.

    Foreword:
    I am going to preface this guide by saying that if you are unable to get a hold of everything required then it will be impossible to make this modification. The hardest part to get out of the lot is the connector, and at that you may have to get a hold of the complete loom in order to fish out the bit you need. If you don't have both physical parts in your hands I highly discourage throwing money at enabling the reading; you'll forever believe it to be -30ºC outside and you won't ever want to get out of the car again. If on the other hand you can get a hold of all that you need then do read on.

    What you do:
    Part l: Prep

    We can make life easier for ourselves with a few checks; firstly, make sure that the connector and the sensor marry. The click when they join will sound solid, and result in a waterproof connection that you'll find indispensible under the bonnet. Then invest in some conduit to go over your cabling, resulting in a much stronger cable running from the sensor to the binnacle.

    You should also dial your local automotive shop to ensure they have the T4 unit; rare as they are it is the only diagnostic kit that will work for this operation. Thankfully being Freelander owners we can make use of any shop specialising in Rover/MG/Land Rover, so any of those are likely to store our coveted kit.

    With these checks in place you'll find a much smoother ride to the finish.

    Part ll: Hardware
    It should be very obvious how the sensor fits within the connection; feel free to join the two when you have them. The first step is to find plenty of time to allow for your own experience in doing this job; first you're going to have to drop the bumper.

    20191020_122422.jpg

    Your facelift bumper is a single piece from wing to wing, up to the bonnet and all the way down to the sump guard. Your first port of call should be beneath the wheel arches - you'll find several screws with washers lining the forward half of the arch. Unscrew these and look for additional screws in the opening between the wing and side panel. Once you've successfully freed these off then you should move under the car to the sump and find another set of screws across the bumper. Lastly you may or may not have another set of three just below your front license plate. With all of these gone you'll just have to unbolt the bumper from under the bonnet lid and it will come away. Put it down where it will not get scratched.

    20191020_122847.jpg 20191020_123005.jpg 20191020_123346.jpg 20191020_123342.jpg
    The elusive mounting rail sits on the right hand side of the car. It's a three-pronged piece of plastic which will accept your connector simply by having you slide it back over the forward-facing prong. This will capture your harness and forever more it shall sit. The next part of this is largely personal preference so thread your cable up inside the engine bay. I used a circular hole right behind the mount and threaded the cable through there.

    IMG-20191018-WA0000.jpg
    Recommended: Within the engine bay I introduced some conduit over my cable to protect it from the elements and the engine itself.
    20191020_130434.jpg
    With the now armoured cable I navigated it across the bay just below the cusp of the bonnet catch and around to the fusebox. For ease of access just unbolt the fusebox and move it slightly to enable you to perform this next trick; you'll need to locate a rubber grommit up against the passenger's side footwell. With the tiniest nick you should be able to pass your connection through to beneath the glovebox. If you've extended your connection you may consider disconnecting it and joining the two once you're inside the cabin. If you do it this way you should find that your cable can run up and into the space above the glovebox.

    20191020_150948.jpg

    From the other end you'll need to get at your instrument pack; you'll find around six screws hold it in place beneath the shroud and at the sides.
    20191020_140348.jpg
    Once it's out, look around the back of the pack for a crimson tinted connection. It's fiddly; you'll need a pin, or even a ampmeter prod will do. Press in on the retainer and free the red connection from the instrument pack (IPK).

    Within this connection you are looking for pin #18. The owner's manual describes it as a "Solid Orange" (SO) cable. You may or may not have one present already; if you do it's just connected and it will terminate within the centre console, rendering it useless. However if you do have it you've spared yourself some time as you'll need the spade connected to the existing cable. You can save yourself more of a headache by simply splitting the existing cable, then soldering your fresh wire into the existing connection.

    20191020_140418.jpg

    To the left of the IPK you will find a hole that you can thread your cable through - it will snake it's way up to the cup holders and back across to where your engine bay cabling is behind the glovebox panel. Now you can connect the two, rebuild your glovebox and return your IPK to its shroud. Re-attach your bumper and close the bonnet. Hardware portion complete!


    Part lll: Firmware
    Unfortunately at this time, I've been so far unable to access this option properly. Two attempts later and no joy I've become wary of trying again due to the cost of having someone open up their unit and without the ability to experiment myself it's still an unknown entity within this process.

    20191018_162900.jpg

    On the T4 kit you'll be looking firstly to set it up on the Land Rover disc, then select your vehicle as a Freelander (2001+). Within the first menu you're looking for the "Vehicle Configuration" option. Within this you'll look for a secondary set of menus. On the far right hand side you'll find an option called "LCS Coding". Within that menu will appear two pages worth of options. On page 2 you'll see one that says "IPK Temp" and it will either say "Enabled" or "Disabled". If it says disabled, tap it to set it to enabled and then along the bottom press "Continue" to enable it.

    And that is unfortunately where this guide ends I'm afraid. That *should* have set up the IPK to display the initial configuration reading of -30°C... except it didn't for me. If it does for you, simply go on your merry way and watch in amazement as the temperature climbs up while the car adapts to its working range. If it doesn't then we're in the same boat - I don't know what other settings need to be enabled, set or switched to reach the finishing line. If you do however feel free to reply - we're all waiting with bated breath.

    With thanks to:
    LRUK for the technical manuals
    @Arctic2 for the MG ZT connector
    Discount MG Rover Spares for the sensor
    Lovell - LRUK for use of his T4
     
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2020 at 11:02 AM
    Hippo likes this.
  2. Arctic2

    Arctic2 Well-Known Member

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    Hi Bounty.
    I think I may have that ambient temperature connector in one of my boxes in the shed I will take a look for you tomorrow.
     
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  3. Bounty

    Bounty Active Member

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    Part arrived, socket appears to be some kind of two pin job

    20191011_121153.jpg 20191011_121156.jpg
     
  4. Arctic2

    Arctic2 Well-Known Member

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    I had a look today and I found the connector, it is not a stand alone item it is part of a loom, but I am also sure I had a couple that were cut off the loom, but as it as rained all day here I have not had chance to go through the other boxes of wires looms, it no rain tomorrow I can have another look, couple of photo's below of where it fits on the R40 or MGZT diesel.
     

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    Last edited: Oct 11, 2019
  5. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    It'll obviously be a vehicle connector of some sort. It should be traceable with a makers name and number from the connector concerned.
     
  6. Bounty

    Bounty Active Member

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    20191011_130735.jpg
    Here it is square on, seems uncanny that one of the plugs @Arctic2 has even has the same coloured cables under the shielding
     
  7. Arctic2

    Arctic2 Well-Known Member

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    I don't remember seeing one on my FL1 when I removed the front bumper? where about are you adding this to your FL1 ? below are the photo's I have manged to find where they fit on the front bumper on the R40 it is part of the loom that caries the fog lights. part number for the loom is on one of the photo's.
     

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    Last edited: Oct 11, 2019
  8. Bounty

    Bounty Active Member

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    Right behind the front bumper assembly; a mounting point should already exist. Then I'd need to trail that cable back to the engine bay bulkhead to get it to interface with the car once the option is enabled

    Freelander Temp 1.png Freelander Temp 2.png
     
  9. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    The wiring wasn't fitted to the FL1, unless it was going to Canada. All other markets will need the wiring run from the dash, to the front of the vehicle.

    I looked into this myself, and decided that the lack of access to T4 made it a difficult addition, so I went with my mirror temperature sensor instead.
     
  10. Arctic2

    Arctic2 Well-Known Member

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    Hi John.
    I thought I had not seen it on my FL1 also if you retro fitted it where would the reading be ? would it be in the IPK binnacle.

    PS bounty would you like me to strip down the loom I have and send you the plug and a good length of wiring as I have quite a lot of loom, if so send me you full name & address in a conversation.
     
  11. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    It was only the Canadian FL1 that had the external temperature display, and then only on the facelift. The temperature is displayed on the Ipack LCD, on the upper left of the display. However all Ipacks have the button to select °C or °F, the button simply does nothing on all markets that didn't have the temperature display. ;)
     
  12. Arctic2

    Arctic2 Well-Known Member

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    HI John.
    Thank you for that information I did not know that :) hopefully if Thomas gets to fit the external temperature sensor he will take photo's and show us, I have made up enough wiring loom with the plug connector for him & will post it off tomorrow. ;)
    [​IMG]1

    [​IMG]2
     
  13. Arctic2

    Arctic2 Well-Known Member

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    Hi Thomas
    Wiring posted out today for you (FOC) by first class hopefully it will reach you tomorrow or Wednesday, enjoy and do please post up how you fitted it ;)
     
  14. Bounty

    Bounty Active Member

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    We're in business
    20191015_122528.jpg
     
  15. Arctic2

    Arctic2 Well-Known Member

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    Great hope there is enough wiring to reach where it need to, nice to see it arrived safely :)
     
  16. Bounty

    Bounty Active Member

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    Been to my LR specialist and he's been on the autologic only to find.. no way of enabling the setting. So we might be limited to T4 or bust
     
  17. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    It's T4 only, which is why I did a different mod.
     
  18. rob_bell

    rob_bell Well-Known Member

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    Philip Christain has a T4 - but he's in West London... but I am sure he could be persuaded to help :)
     
  19. Bounty

    Bounty Active Member

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    T4 found, IPK Temp option enabled but nothing on the display to indicate it worked.

    Current theory is that it needs the hardware installed to start reading correctly. Anticipating I'll be doing the sensor installation come Sunday. Hopefully the experiment is positive and it's a win.
     
  20. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    I've got a couple of PDFs on the subject, from people who have done it.
    Here's one.
     

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