so, the garage has said

after returning from a 500 plus mile trip, something sounded wrong at the front passenger side, just been to the garage and been told the ns calliper is binding, so they are quoting a exchange calliper, new pads and new disks at around £320,
although I trust this garage, is that all really necessary or could I look at doing something myself, have tools but limited hands on knowledge

You can do it all yourself !!

First thing is to try and free up the caliper.

If there is real damage (corrosion) then a repair kit or exchange caliper will be needed.

dont know the cost but i guess a lot less than paying a garage.

Just doing the front?

Fag packet maths: £50 for a caliper, £40 for discs, £20 for pads, £10 for fluid. 2hrs labour (wouldn't take me much more than an hour sat on my bum on the driveway).

If you'r confident enough to have a go yourself, even buying a pressure bleeder and copper grease you'd be well under £200.

digby said:

You can do it all yourself !!

First thing is to try and free up the caliper.

If there is real damage (corrosion) then a repair kit or exchange caliper will be needed.

dont know the cost but i guess a lot less than paying a garage.

Click to expand...

If the rotor is fooked then new rotor, garages said it was

digby said:

You can do it all yourself !!

First thing is to try and free up the caliper.

If there is real damage (corrosion) then a repair kit or exchange caliper will be needed.

dont know the cost but i guess a lot less than paying a garage.

Click to expand...

PlattyR56 said:

everything is moving, all the garage did was to feel the heat on front disks, drivers side was warm, passenger side was melt your finger,


Just doing the front?

Fag packet maths: £50 for a caliper, £40 for discs, £20 for pads, £10 for fluid. 2hrs labour (wouldn't take me much more than an hour sat on my bum on the driveway).

If you'r confident enough to have a go yourself, even buying a pressure bleeder and copper grease you'd be well under £200.

Click to expand...

I know the fella that sold me the freebie, he already replaced drivers side and rear couple years ago, dunno why left the passenger one, as I say, have the tools,brake bleeder and copper grease, as wife has lots bikes

Thor1950 said:

If the rotor is fooked then new rotor, garages said it was

Click to expand...

no, garage did finger test, then I drove it home

Probably just the sliders siezed. Mine sieze real easy. The biggest cost will be labour which if you do it yourself is free. Just need patience that's all. The only reason they say you need a new caliper is because it's cheaper to buy a new one than charge you the labour to un sieze it

Do it yourself. It might just be the caliper slides sticking. Very common

Kizzeh said:

Probably just the sliders siezed. Mine sieze real easy. The biggest cost will be labour which if you do it yourself is free. Just need patience that's all. The only reason they say you need a new caliper is because it's cheaper to buy a new one than charge you the labour to un sieze it

Click to expand...

Nodge68 said:

Do it yourself. It might just be the caliper slides sticking. Very common

Click to expand...

just had a look, after removing the front wheel, the disk would not spin freely like they did on my old 2wd cars, is that because this has the vcu on it?? anyway, took the calliper off, plus around a tonne of mud (dunno where that came from ) and yup the slider bolt thingeys were stuck solid, so removed pads, these will need replacing asap, undone the slider bolts a few turns then WD40 them, cleaned up the calliper and got it moving correctly, then stuck it all back together, don't know if this will be enough with my limited knowledge, if it still makes the binding noise, I've sourced a new calliper to pick up next week,

Did you check the rubber bits for splits, if the rubber dust cover is split, water and mud will get back in and seize them up. But I'm sure you know that. Did you squeeze the piston back in the calliper atall? I normally use a big pair of plumbers grips