So, How totally fecked am I??

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Chrisfrain2007 said:
The size of extractor you would need would be quite large, and you would need a deep hole, potentially cutting into the stud, which I don't know if you can get out of the hub, and if you snap the extractor you will then struggle to drill that out
Click to expand...

Possibly!
Looks like you may need to use an under sized socket then as others have stated!
If it don't fit cause it's too fat, you could turn it down on a laith or if you don't have access to a laith. Then grind it down steadily untill it fits.
Then bash the ****er on and jobs a good un
 
ratty said:
I rekon my Dynomec would get that off.

Locking Wheel Nut Remover - DYNOMEC - YouTube

If you have AA or RAC cover it may be worth calling them cos they use the same set.;)
Click to expand...
That looks to be a good tool.....how does it work if the top of the wheel nut is spinning in the first place??

Not a member of the RAC/AA so maybe I could join and then call them out to rescue me from this creek of poo and hand me a paddle...
 
Saint.V8 said:
That looks to be a good tool.....how does it work if the top of the wheel nut is spinning in the first place??

Not a member of the RAC/AA so maybe I could join and then call them out to rescue me from this creek of poo and hand me a paddle...
Click to expand...

Ant explain properly what the problem is. Have the threads stripped in the nut? If they have just take the other three out and turn that one as you pull wheel towards you, not directly in line with duff nut but at various places around wheel until it comes out.
 
Last edited:
Thats Bollocks said:
Possibly!
Looks like you may need to use an under sized socket then as others have stated!
If it don't fit cause it's too fat, you could turn it down on a laith or if you don't have access to a laith. Then grind it down steadily untill it fits.
Then bash the ****er on and jobs a good un
Click to expand...
Trouble is the Top Part spins, so if I hammer a socket onto it, it will just spin merrily away....

No room to grind the wheel nut away as it sits recessed into the alloy.

Drilling the head off, may work but will take forever, plus also the top part is spinning so getting a good purchase for the drill will be difficult.

I was thinking of an stud extractor wound into the wheel nut, but there is little material to drill into to get purchase for undoing, plus I am not sure the extractor will take the torque required to undo the wheel nut...!!!!
 
wammers said:
Ant explain properly what the problem is. Have the threads stripped in the hub?
Click to expand...
Hi Tony,

I attached a phot of one of the locking wheel nuts in a previous post - as can be seen there is a silver top cover with key ways grooved into it, and below that is a steel rim also with the grooves cut into it.

The Steel Rim has rounded off so the Locking Key has nothing to grip onto, and the Silver top part just rotates freely. - Threads on stud and wheel nut are fine...

Any use?
 
Saint.V8 said:
That looks to be a good tool.....how does it work if the top of the wheel nut is spinning in the first place??

Not a member of the RAC/AA so maybe I could join and then call them out to rescue me from this creek of poo and hand me a paddle...
Click to expand...

If you look at the box of bits as it appears as the video starts you will see an impact driver on the left of the box. Tool holder and a centre punch to the right of the box and the removal tools in the centre of the box.

The middle row show two tools. These are for removing whee nuts along the lines of yours which would usually be driven by metal dowels or a splined tool.

The remover bit of the tool is the outter bit and this slide up and down the long pointy centre spike of the tool. When inserted into the tool holder which is spring loaded it allows the centre to retract thus allowing the black extractor part to remain in contact with the splines. I'd take a close up piccy of mine and upload it but I've leant it to one of my colleagues at the moment.

The other option would be to break off or drill out the ali centre cap to expose the steel nut and then drive a thin wall rounded nut remover over the remnants. I have a 3/8 set that I use especially for this.
 
Just phoned the RAC, even if I joined up, they won't come out to a job that results from or is in the process of maintenance work....

If I was broken down or punctured and I couldn't get the wheel nut off, fair-do's but members aren't covered for repirs/recovery/assistance during owner maintenance...
 
Saint.V8 said:
Hi Tony,

I attached a phot of one of the locking wheel nuts in a previous post - as can be seen there is a silver top cover with key ways grooved into it, and below that is a steel rim also with the grooves cut into it.

The Steel Rim has rounded off so the Locking Key has nothing to grip onto, and the Silver top part just rotates freely. - Threads on stud and wheel nut are fine...

Any use?
Click to expand...

Ok you can either buy the removal tool or hammer a twelve point socket onto it, problem is if you only have Halfrauds quality twelve pointers it is likely you will split the socket. But those are the options you have.
 
ratty said:
If you look at the box of bits as it appears as the video starts you will see an impact driver on the left of the box. Tool holder and a centre punch to the right of the box and the removal tools in the centre of the box.

The middle row show two tools. These are for removing whee nuts along the lines of yours which would usually be driven by metal dowels or a splined tool.

The remover bit of the tool is the outter bit and this slide up and down the long pointy centre spike of the tool. When inserted into the tool holder which is spring loaded it allows the centre to retract thus allowing the black extractor part to remain in contact with the splines. I'd take a close up piccy of mine and upload it but I've leant it to one of my colleagues at the moment.

The other option would be to break off or drill out the ali centre cap to expose the steel nut and then drive a thin wall rounded nut remover over the remnants. I have a 3/8 set that I use especially for this.
Click to expand...
Your Dynomec sounds like just the ticket - How much and were from??

Which part of Somerset are you from - the bit closer to London or t'other side?? if you are willing or able - it might be cheaper for me to burn a couple of tank fulls of LPG and beg on my knees for mercy and help, plus a case of your favourite Beer and a packet of posh biscuits for you/your other half as a way of bribery...
 
Saint.V8 said:
Your Dynomec sounds like just the ticket - How much and were from??

Which part of Somerset are you from - the bit closer to London or t'other side?? if you are willing or able - it might be cheaper for me to burn a couple of tank fulls of LPG and beg on my knees for mercy and help, plus a case of your favourite Beer and a packet of posh biscuits for you/your other half as a way of bribery...
Click to expand...

The Dynomec is £250

Franklin do a copy of it for about £190

FRANKLIN TOOLS Locking Wheel Nut Removal Tool Set AFT26 | eBay

I'll see if I can get mine back from my colleague over the next day or two and I'll post it to you along with my rounded nut removers.
 
wammers said:
Ok you can either buy the removal tool or hammer a twelve point socket onto it, problem is if you only have Halfrauds quality twelve pointers it is likely you will split the socket. But those are the options you have.
Click to expand...
I did buy a socket suitable to hammer over, but there were two things wrong with that....

One - the top spins, and that is what the socket will be hammered on to
Two - the size of the required socket was so large, it now doesn't fit into the recess hole in the alloy - and turning that socket down externally will leave the walls to weak to use...
 
Saint get a dremil cut a slot in it and chisel it around, you can weld a bit at a time by covering out side face of alloys with lots of layers of duck tape and lots of vasaline in around wheel nut too cool down. You only need two tiny welds on either Side of a bolt that would be thinner than a nut, you said you didnt tighten the up much.
 
ratty said:
The Dynomec is £250

Franklin do a copy of it for about £190

FRANKLIN TOOLS Locking Wheel Nut Removal Tool Set AFT26 | eBay

I'll see if I can get mine back from my colleague over the next day or two and I'll post it to you along with my rounded nut removers.
Click to expand...
Ratty - if you would do that for me, I would be eternally grateful.

Obviously I will cover the postage/carrier costs - plus a bit for yourself to celebrate your kindness with.

I will PM you with my contact details......
 
ratty said:
I'm not after making anything out of it. Just look at it as LZIR mission but via post.;):D
Click to expand...
I cannot morally not offer you anything for you kindness...

I will cover all postage costs - and if my pen slips when I write you the cheque - or if my fingers slip on the keyboard during a paypal transaction and 'accidentally' over pay you for the postage - would that be allright??
 
Saint.V8 said:
I cannot morally not offer you anything for you kindness...

I will cover all postage costs - and if my pen slips when I write you the cheque - or if my fingers slip on the keyboard during a paypal transaction and 'accidentally' over pay you for the postage - would that be allright??
Click to expand...

Wny not just pass the favour on to someone else when they need a hand.;)
 
I'm not completely sure on the hub assembly of a LR so will need someone to confirm if this is possible or not, but with normal road cars, you can get to the hub nut, pop that off, and tug off the hub (it'll split the bearing but hey ho), then cut the stud out from the back of the hub.
You'll need a new stud and hub bearing, but hey ho, problem solved.
 
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