Slow starting engine

I am new to LZ despite having my LR90 2.5 D NA for quite some time. I have got used to the odd water leak inside, but now wish to rectify the slow starting engine. All original 1984 2.5 D NA which turns over quickly with a fully charged battery, but the engine takes about 5-10 seconds of turning the key before it splutters into life. Once the ecelerator peddle is depressed and a grey smoke cloud is produced the engine runs fine. It starts immediately once it has been used during the day. I have not touched the engine apart from filters and lubes in five years. The slow start and spluttering has always been a feature of a cold start and it gradually wears the battery down.

I would be grateful for some advice on rectifying the problem. Is it the glow plugs, the alternator, starter motor, oil in the cylinder heads or something else? I am hoping for something simple.

My thoughts would be glow plugs - especially as it starts ok once it's warmed up. There not expensive & easy to change. So based upon the service maybe changed them all. Also check the wire connections.

Good luck

What do you do when starting from cold? How long do you glow the plugs for?

Ruari - Thanks for the advice and apologies for the delay. I hope that this is the answer, otherwise I am considering it something more significant. I haven't changed the plugs in five years and the existing ones look pretty old, so I will get a new set and see if it makes a difference. Fingers crossed and thanks for the second opinion.

tombardier said:

What do you do when starting from cold? How long do you glow the plugs for?

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Tombardier - Thank you for your response - Well this is a good question. Despite having been around LRs for some time, I am pretty naiive about the starting process. I don't touch the peddles and turn the key half way for about 10 seconds then turn the engine over. It turns quickly and after about 10 seconds it fires intermitently then bursts into life. It needs the accelerator depressed and revs to get it running smoothly, after that it is a dream and is perfect (as much as a 180K 2.5 D N/A can be). I don't know if it is supposed to have a glow plug light on the dash; certainly nothing comes on. Do you think it is a glow plug issue?

tombardier said:

What do you do when starting from cold? How long do you glow the plugs for?

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Amazingly your advice prompted me to look for the glow plug light and I think I have found it. Importantly the engine started first time from cold. I turned the key to the first position then continued to turn it to the point where it should start to turn over. It feels like it is on a spring, the heater and lights cut out and an orange light on the dash illuminated. It is two lines with a diagonal line. Assume this is the GP light. I waited for 10 seconds, it didn't go out, but fired the engine and it started in 1-2 secs. Brilliant. Does this sound like the correct application of the glow plugs? Feel somewhat naiive!!!!

That's the one, looks like you're sorted no gp timer on the 2.5na i think they were lazy and they just re-used the petrol choke symbol on the diesel engine, but yes, that light is the one you must've struggled throughout December! Hehe.

starting 2.5 na diesel,hold key in the spring loaded heater plug position just before the cranking position for 10 seconds,the lights either a choke symbol or pigs tail element symbol ,full throttle and it should start in a few seconds.if not check heater plugs,pump timing, or for air leaks at fuel pipes, filter head etc.the unions can come loose.

yea at least 10 secs up to 30 in winter, but NO THROTAL AT ALL UNTILL IT FIRES there is a cold start device in the pump that will only work at idle

All - thank you for your advice. I now seem to have my head around the glow plug issue. Using your advice the engine turns over first time.

nongrokal said:

yea at least 10 secs up to 30 in winter, but NO THROTTLE AT ALL UNTIL IT FIRES there is a cold start device in the pump that will only work at idle

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EXACTLY!

AND MORE !!!!! It is absolutely VITAL that there is some SLACK in the throttle linkage when your foot is off the pedal. DO NOT try to set tick-over/slow running by adjusting the throttle cable or linkage. If you do you WILL disable the cold start device. The slow running speed should only be adjusted by the little lever that leans on the fuel outlet union at the top front of the pump.

Now _that_ is interesting. I noticed the other lever today, and did wonder about the cold-start mechanism and it's relationship to that. You've just confirmed it. I'll be adjusting it tomorrow

tombardier said:

Now _that_ is interesting. I noticed the other lever today, and did wonder about the cold-start mechanism and it's relationship to that. You've just confirmed it. I'll be adjusting it tomorrow

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You may not need to touch it in the life of the engine.

The critical thing is to make SURE the throttle lever rests firmly on the stops when fully UP as well as fully DOWN.

You can look at the top of the injection pump while someone puts the throttle up and down, and you will soon see where the two throttle stops are.

Do NOT adjust these! The engine may over-speed and come to harm.

With the engine ticking over you can try a tweak on the slow running lever with a screw-driver. Lever it off the fuel union momentarily. You will soon see the effect. That lever sets a GOVERNOR inside which controls the slow running speed.