Sloppy steering

I picked up my first ever Land Rover last night... a 1970 IIA. I've never driven one before so am unsure of the typical characteristics, but I thought I better check the following wasn't 'standard' behavior. The steering has about 3 inches of play in it before the wheels turn...!

At a guess this would be play in the column or steering box?

I doubt a series LR exists that doesn't have sloppy steering. They left the factory with sloppy steering (relative to most other cars). You get used to it though.

That's good to hear.

They don't steer like a modern car but they shouldn't be sloppy either, get someone to rock the steering wheel side to side while you look underneath at all the steering joints,there shouldn't be any play in the steering joints,if there is they need greasing or more likely replacing. If there is no play in the joints then its probably the steering box which you can adjust to take the play out.

Ah! Thanks for the hint - I'll get the wife to help me out!

When you turn the wheel there will be some play but it shouldn't be much and when the front axle is lifted the wheels should start to move as soon as the wheel turns but when on the floor there should be some "spring" before it moves. The steering "gives" for a nicer feel when driving.

As indicated check that everything is sound mechanically starting at the steering wheel working to the steering box, relay, ball joints etc. Also check that the steering arms aren' loose (i.e. the bits bolted to the bottom of the swivels). Check that there's oil in the steering box and steering relay then nip up the steering box adjuster - that wants to be done up tight then backed off.

Lastly get your tracking checked - it makes a big difference. Make sure that they set it to just toed in - I had three separate garages set it wrong! My tracking is out at the moment (after I replaced a steering component) and it is horrid to drive!

I've got lots of play in my steering relay, it's a nightmare job to replace so I'll live with it until the MOT man says no.

Spyderman said:

I've got lots of play in my steering relay, it's a nightmare job to replace so I'll live with it until the MOT man says no.

Click to expand...

It's only a nightmare to replace if it's seized into the chassis. It's possible to take out the innards and replace them in situ as long as you can find a way to compress the spring on the shaft. It can all get a bit exciting when you've got all that energy held together by a couple of jubilee clips.....

It only passed it's MOT last month, so I'm guessing it's not the steering arms - I'll read the old faithful (Haynes) about adjusting the steering box and checking the relay.

Throw out the Haynes manual and download the proper workshop manual. Google landrover manual pdf

Or we could just be generous...... pdf Land Rover Manuals | Landroverweb.com

Nah keep the Haynes yer may need to wipe your arse.

Update - I've found the cause! It's the ball joints at each end of the connecting rod between relay and box. Can I replace these with standard ball joints, or are they special ones?

All six balljoints should be the same, but 3 LH and 3 RH thread

You have found the play in the parts people do not like to replace. Compared to any other joints these are a little more awkward to get at. All doable though, if you have any need to take the radiator panel out then that is the time to do them as it gives better access.
Try not to buy Britpart or other cheap items and go for original if you can. You really do not want to be doing these again in a year or so. Good quality ones will last years.

Steering box adjuster should only be tightened finger tight or internals will wear very quickly.

Not all ball joints come with a grease nipple fitted, but they are much better with one. You won't know which end is LH or RH thread until you start to undo them, so go easy at first. If you're replacing all six, it might be worth buying a ball joint separator - there are several different types. If you check carefully when you remove the old ones, then put the new ones at the same spacing, you shouldn't need to retrack the steering. Good job for hot sunny days, but hey-ho...

Before you start stripping the TRE's out, accurately measure the lengths of each rod as that makes it a lot easier to put it all back together somewhere near where they should be.

Either that or make a mark on each rod and count the number of turns required to remove the ends, refitting by screwing in the same number of turns.

I personally use the first method.

beware! not all TREs are equal with more or fewer extra turns!