Silent fuel pump td5

Hi there, so my 110 td5 starts fine but there is no noise whatsoever from fuel pump?? , it was noisy but all of a suddern its not, only issue vehicle has is feels like it doesnt want to rev past 2700 rpm's almost coughs/splutters, maf/map clean, wastegate loose, new fuel regulator pump a year ago etc, runs totally fine apart from high revs and noticed in a morning first 5 mins in say 3rd 4th gear when cold it coughs/splutters but then clears, so has anybody got a totally quiet fuel pump on ignition on/prime etc? Also higher revs out of breath type of thing?, cheers

Possible the high pressure side of the pump has failed and you’re running on the low pressure side only.

tom1979 said:

Possible the high pressure side of the pump has failed and you’re running on the low pressure side only.

Click to expand...

Thanks ill look into that, didnt realise there was high and low

Hi. Here's an easy one https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/check-td5-fuel-pump-hp.358086/ but you have to addapt it for defender which means to measure on F4 under seat and calculate for 20A not 30A according to the chart (unless the info from RAVE is wrong and the defender has also 30A fuse like the D2)

sierrafery said:

Hi. Here's an easy one https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/check-td5-fuel-pump-hp.358086/ but you have to addapt it for defender which means to measure on F4 under seat and calculate for 20A not 30A according to the chart (unless the info from RAVE is wrong and the defender has also 30A fuse like the D2)

Click to expand...

Cheers for that, Electickery!! Dam it i had a read and probably got myself even more mixed up, its my second pump after the first failed but every post i read is more about noisy pumps which mine was from new, think i only noticed a few weeks after fuel filter had been changed by a garage, and as vehicle has run/started fine i hadnt seen a priblem until the higher revs problem then noticed in a morning it would cough and splutter which it never has done even though that seems common, good old defender ownership!!

Just double checked priming, pump silent, check light flashes, vehicle starts spot on

It can start and run on LP as well but loose power under load but if you'll be certain that the pump delivers HP then you may need to change the injector copper washers

sierrafery said:

It can start and run on LP as well but loose power under load but if you'll be certain that the pump delivers HP then you may need to change the injector copper washers

Click to expand...

Cheers, ive been trying to find somebody my way with a nanocom, when you mention testing the pump for hp, i take it it would have to be done while been driven?

monk said:

Cheers, ive been trying to find somebody my way with a nanocom, when you mention testing the pump for hp, i take it it would have to be done while been driven?

Click to expand...

If you feel like it, you can check the fuel flow at the FPR on the side of the engine.
If you disconnect the main fuel inlet , you can check the flow rate over time, as an example 15 seconds. Into a measuring jug. RAVE does state the flow rate for the HP and the LP flow. I do not have it on this laptop. A search on here may show the rates as it has been discussed previously.
You could also do a pressure check if you have the guage.

But be warned if you do disconnect it and the pump is knackered , chances are it will not restart.

Cheers

monk said:

Cheers, ive been trying to find somebody my way with a nanocom, when you mention testing the pump for hp, i take it it would have to be done while been driven?

Click to expand...

NO, just at idle as yu have to measure with multimeter across a fuse under the seat

neilly said:

If you feel like it, you can check the fuel flow at the FPR on the side of the engine.
If you disconnect the main fuel inlet , you can check the flow rate over time, as an example 15 seconds. Into a measuring jug. RAVE does state the flow rate for the HP and the LP flow. I do not have it on this laptop. A search on here may show the rates as it has been discussed previously.
You could also do a pressure check if you have the guage.

But be warned if you do disconnect it and the pump is knackered , chances are it will not restart.

Cheers

Click to expand...

Thanks, i dont have a gauge, and typically just had a knee op so finding it difficult stretching towards fpr as was checking things last night, might have to go to garage just everytime i bring a problem up it cant be found!

sierrafery said:

NO, just at idle as yu have to measure with multimeter across a fuse under the the seat

Click to expand...

Ah right, that i can do, ill have a re-read cheers

To do it easyer for you just tell me how many mV you see across fuse F4(in situ) at idle and i'll tell you if the pump is good or not

sierrafery said:

To do it easyer for you just tell me how many mV you see across fuse F4(in situ) i rectify at idle and i'll tell you if the pump is good or not

Click to expand...

Much appreciated mate, going to borrow a multimeter from work tomorrow

sierrafery said:

NO, just at idle as yu have to measure with multimeter across a fuse under the seat

Click to expand...

sierrafery said:

To do it easyer for you just tell me how many mV you see across fuse F4(in situ) at idle and i'll tell you if the pump is good or not

Click to expand...

Hi there, tried sending you a pic but struggling on this site, most mates who are sparkys are struggling with mv!! Multimeter ive borrowed was told has it plus the only one i could get a reading with was set at 2k if that means anything to you but (. 036) seems to be the only reading i could get so im guessing im doing something wrong, but thats across fuel pump 20amp fuse under seat, thanks jasr

monk said:

Hi there, tried sending you a pic but struggling on this site, most mates who are sparkys are struggling with mv!! Multimeter ive borrowed was told has it plus the only one i could get a reading with was set at 2k if that means anything to you but (. 036) seems to be the only reading i could get so im guessing im doing something wrong, but thats across fuel pump 20amp fuse under seat, thanks jasr

Click to expand...

monk said:

Much appreciated mate, going to borrow a multimeter from work tomorrow

Click to expand...

The selector must be on that red 200m which means 200mV DC cos now it's on resistance 2K ohm

sierrafery said:

The selector must be on that red 200m which means 200mV DC cos now it's on resistance 2K ohm

Click to expand...

Cheers mate, ill check again tomorrow but think i did try it as tried all settings i think and didnt get a reading

Then try on other fuse too and if still nothing that multimeter is fubar

sierrafery said:

Then try on other fuse too and if still nothing that multimeter is fubar

Click to expand...

I did start messing but then thought nah! I dont no what im doing ha