Setting base idle issue

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fattboy

Member
Posts
34
Location
Up north
hi - I've been having idle hunting/ stalling issue with my classic 4.2 lse. Problem started as it came out of a garage after having some (non engine) work carried out. The only thing the guy did was to wind the idle down a little as it surged when putting it into park. Since then the idle has been erratic so I've changed the steeper motor, cleaned the maf, pipes and flame trap. Prior to this ( a few months ago) it's had a new dizzy/ cap/arm/plugs and leads. I tried to set the base idle today as per instructions on the net but when I take the stepper lead off and start in neutral it stays at 1500-2000 regardless of adjustment? Does anyone have any ideas or thoughts on what i should be checking next? Doesn't seem to have leaks from the pipes as I've checked by spraying around them with no raise/fall noticed. Now it doesn't seem to want to idle at all and just hunts then dies?
Many thanks
Matt
 
If the stepper is letting in air you will not be able to set base idle, so you may have a separate issue with the stepper not returning. Try nipping the air bypass hose instead, set idle, switch off then remove battery live for a minute or two to clear fault codes, refit / remove pliers and fire up.
 
Ive only just replaced the stepper today with new gasket and cleaned the rear (small bolt on part) plenum with a new gasket. Is this likely to be letting in air still? It was an approved part from LR direct.
And the issue was present before the replacement, let me know if im still missing something, as i said im not too technical.
Thanks again
 
What I do know is you can't just turn idle down Willy nilly. If the idle drops below min value, the ecu will constantly operate stepper motor to compensate and prevent stalling.
 
U had this issue on my disco 2 v8 and turned out to be a faulty MAF, would be very intermittent at first but over time got more frequent changed maf not happened since. What lead me to the MAF on mine was intermittent MAF related codes being stored. If I deleted the codes would be fine for a 100 miles or so and then start doing it again.
 
hi - I've been having idle hunting/ stalling issue with my classic 4.2 lse. Problem started as it came out of a garage after having some (non engine) work carried out. The only thing the guy did was to wind the idle down a little as it surged when putting it into park. Since then the idle has been erratic so I've changed the steeper motor, cleaned the maf, pipes and flame trap. Prior to this ( a few months ago) it's had a new dizzy/ cap/arm/plugs and leads. I tried to set the base idle today as per instructions on the net but when I take the stepper lead off and start in neutral it stays at 1500-2000 regardless of adjustment? Does anyone have any ideas or thoughts on what i should be checking next? Doesn't seem to have leaks from the pipes as I've checked by spraying around them with no raise/fall noticed. Now it doesn't seem to want to idle at all and just hunts then dies?
Many thanks
Matt
The engine will idle fast if you remove the stepper plug. (IIRC the ecu winds the stepper to full open when you switch off, that could be on but you get the picture) It will also cause an ecu fault and put it in limp mode.
I would suggest you need to go at this one bit at a time.
First up, disconnect the main ecu plug under the drivers seat, wait a couple of seconds then put it back on, next turn ignition on and listen, you should hear the fuel pump, efi and brake system relays click. Check dash, hopefully the efi warning light is out.

Do a quick check to make sure all the hoses are connected and that there are no air leaks, so look at bypass air hose (the big one round the back that goes to the stepper), check the vac line that goes from the base of the ram housing to the vacuum accumulator and also check the vacuum connection on the crank case breather system ( the connection to the pipe off the top of the flame trap), last have a look at the hose for the fuel pressure regulator. You shouldn't need to worry about the vac advance hose at this stage as it doesn't do anything at idle ( but do check the vac advance for correct operation). Assuming all is in order fire up the engine and let it warm up, it needs to be warm or the idle will be high due to cold start enrichment.

Assuming the engine has been able to warm up you need to check the ignition timing. It needs to be at 8 Degrees BTDC +/- 1 degree.
Assuming (again) timing is good and the engine will idle smoothly you need to then go about setting the base idle. I find the easiest way to do this is to pull the bypass air hose off at the stepper motor then block off the end of the metal pipe either by putting duct tape over it or get a small plastic bag, cover the end of the pipe then put the bypass air pipe back on over the top. Now the stepper can't do anything to change the idle speed.

You might find the engine will not idle at all meaning the base idle is too low. BTW you'll need to give it a little bit of throttle to start up and then VERY SLOWLY ease the throttle back or it will almost certainly stall, if it stalls anyway the base idle is too low. Find a suitable allen key and turn the idle speed adjuster counter clockwise. You might need a couple of goes to get the engine to idle then you can adjust it until you get the desired 500rpm. If everything is in order, with care it is possible for the engine to sort of idle as low as 250 - 300rpm (I did this very thing just last week on my 3.9).

If you still can't get a smooth idle then I would suspect an inlet air leak somewhere. Get yourself a vacuum gauge to test. Another way to check is to remove the air filter from in front of the air flow meter then with the engine running slowly move your hand across the front of the AFM, as the opening is progressively covered, the idle should improve if there is an inlet air leak before the air flow is too restricted at which point it should suck your hand tight up to the AFM and stop.If the vacuum doesn't feel very strong or you can completely cover the air flow meter and the engine still runs you have an inlet air leak.
Sorry for the long post but hope that helps. Let us know how you get on.
 
Hi - not had time to check everything due to family duties but had 20 mins on it tonight. The car started ok and idled quite level for a few mins. I pulled the maf plug off which stopped/cut the engine out so assume this means the maf is ok? I then checked the air flow by putting hand in front of MAF as per classickev's post above, This made a very strong vacumm and stopped the engine (and popped the wire gauze). Will check again for leaks but it seems that the idle wont adjust from the hex screw, does this give any more ideas?
Thanks for the comments so far
 
Hi - not had time to check everything due to family duties but had 20 mins on it tonight. The car started ok and idled quite level for a few mins. I pulled the maf plug off which stopped/cut the engine out so assume this means the maf is ok? I then checked the air flow by putting hand in front of MAF as per classickev's post above, This made a very strong vacumm and stopped the engine (and popped the wire gauze). Will check again for leaks but it seems that the idle wont adjust from the hex screw, does this give any more ideas?
Thanks for the comments so far

Removing the MAF plug should not stop the engine, all that should happen is that the efi will fault in to limp and the fuel mixture becomes very rich. Put the plug back on, reset the ecu.

Which hex screw have you been adjusting? The one on the MAF alters CO trim not idle. The idle adjustment screw is in the top of the throttle housing. If you have moved the CO trim you will need to reset it, on your engine you should have cats so MAF should be set to a CO trim of about 1.8v IIRC. Speaking of which, the original issue of hunting and poor idle, could this be related to lambda correction?? When the engine is cold, the ecu ignores the O2 sensors but once it warms up the ecu adjusts the fuel injection to achieve lower emissions. If the O2 sensors are bad it might explain what is happening as the ecu tries to adjust fuel trim, this may well cause a cycle of rich and lean with revs rising and falling as the ecu struggles to balance fuel mixture and engine speed although the high idle of 1500 - 2000rpm is more symptomatic of an inlet air leak often accompanied by a lean misfire.

Do you have a code reader? If not it may be worth investing in one. I use an ECUMate and although basic it is a very useful tool and not extortionately expensive. The other thing you might consider is going to a local MOT garage and get hooked up the the exhaust gas analyser, don't know what they would charge bu tyou would be able to play with various settings like ignition timing and CO trim and watch what happens. the gas analyser would also give an indication of whether or not there is an issue somewhere depending on the readings, the other thing is, most MOT gas analysers have a reasonably accurate rpm sensor so you should be able to set the base idle while you're at it.

If you go the garage route you might need up to an hour and make sure you have the right tools for adjusting CO trim and base idle, take a multimeter too so you can hook it up to the MAF to check and adjust CO trim, the gas analyser will show when the trim is right to enable a pass at MOT time.
 
Will check again for leaks but it seems that the idle wont adjust from the hex screw,
So how did garage guy adjust. Sure he hasn't wound it down tight? Whatever he has done, it is likely to be the cause of your problems, and the surging could have been down to stepper which you've changed.
 
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