servicing my TD5 110

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Tazz070299

New Member
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Location
Harrow
Well my TD5 had done 6000 miles (plus a little bit) since I bought it, and its last service. So armed with my Haynes Manual, and having ordered a service kit from Craddocks, I set about tackling what should have been a simple job.

Although, according to Haynes, it only needed an oil change at 6000 miles, with filter changes at 12,000 & 24,000, I decided to change the filters as well. I took the car for a short run to warm up the oil, and then back underneath.

Problem 1 - where the hell is the drain plug? Despite crawling underneath all of the engine there was no drain plug evident, but there was a large plastic shield covering the underneath of the engine. Although there was a cut-out which suggested it was for the sump drain plug, but was actually nowhere near the plug. So it was off with the plastic cover. Easy, or so I thought. The back 2 bolts came out without a problem, but not having 14" fingers and a wrist with the girth of a rat's tail the two front bolts were sods. I presume they would be accessible ordinarily, but I have a steering guard fitted so only a ratchet ring spanner would reach, and then with only a couple of clicks each time. :doh:. When it came to spinning the bolts off at the end, only my first and second fingers would reach! one and a half hours later!! all four bolts were out. So would the plastic shield now come off. Not without jacking up the body away from the transmission. Grr!!

Question 1. Do these shields do any good, and does anyone bother putting them back on afterwards? Oh, by the way, I managed to break part of it taking it off so it only has three bolt holes now and I am dreading trying to re-fit it.

Problem 2. Having found the drain plug it had obviously been tightened by an army of prop forwards but thankfully an impact wrench managed to undo it. It's just that I then managed to dump half a litre of black engine oil on the terracotta finished drive as it flowed out quicker then the catch can could cope. :eek:

Problem 3. Right, looked at the picture in the Haynes manual and you can quite easily see the oil filter. Looking up from underneath my Landy and there's no filter in sight!!:confused: I eventually found it looking from the top of the engine bay but it only seems accessible if other things are removed first:confused: So much for Haynes manuals!!! So, are there any other TD5 owners who can advise? According to Haynes the filer doesn't need replacing for another 6000 miles, but I was brought up with always changing the filter when the oil is changed. Any views?


Leaving the engine bay I then decided to grease up the UJs. No problem here, but the manual makes no mention of the grease nipple located on the prop shaft itself. I presume this gets greased just like the others?

I then found a grease nipple on the steering arm? Again no mention in the Haynes. Does it need greasing and with what?

I then had to give up for the day to make sure I could clean the drive of the spilt oil before Doris got home. Did it with 5 minutes to spare, and she thought I was being a conscientious husband by just hosing down the drive to remove the Winter grime.

What's left to do? Only the fuel filter, centrifugal oil filter, check the bearings and brakes, and air filter. On current experience, 3 days work. :D:D
 
1 chuck the shield ,most are broken or missing
3 id change both filters every time with oil ,you dont need to remove anything else ,using a clamp type tool or long screw driver to tap filter loose ,its a fiddle sometimes but does come out ,with centrifugal filter the 2 bolts are held in the top and dont usually pull out so when refitting ensure top is fully seated before tightening the bolts and then only nip them threads strip easy
just grease all nipples ,the one on prop isnt normally there but a grub screw instead ,with which you remove to fit nipple grease ,probably why haynes missed it ,likewise drop arm doesnt come with nipple as std
 
1,you dont need to remove anything else ,using a clamp type tool or long screw driver to tap filter loose ,its a fiddle sometimes but does come out ,with centrifugal filter the 2 bolts are held in the top and dont usually pull out so when refitting ensure top is fully seated before tightening the bolts and then only nip them threads strip easy

James, thanks for the advice. I've just had a look at the oil filter from the engine bay and there's no way my hands can reach it from the top. Do you attack it from below and it's just the fact that I can't see it for looking from underneath?
 
James, thanks for the advice. I've just had a look at the oil filter from the engine bay and there's no way my hands can reach it from the top. Do you attack it from below and it's just the fact that I can't see it for looking from underneath?

from the top , you can get your hand on it as you see it from the side or from the rear ,best with one hand from both directions, it does help to knock bottom round with a long screw driver to loosen it ,these type of pliers make the job easier
http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rc...XtgZAL&usg=AFQjCNFdewmADR3unnaBDqgoSqaxlBIegA

Doubt very much you have enough strength in you hands and arms with out a oil filter wrench of some type. Oil the rubber ring before you put new filter on
 
I bought a filter wrench like a large ring spanner which fits the filter cartridges with splined ends and there's just room to use it. For ones with other kinds of fittings, I find there's just room to get a large pair of water pump pliers on, to get 'em moving. By the time I got my TD5 there wasn't anything left of the undertray apart from a few broken bits of plastic around the mounting bolts and it seems perfectly happy. With both the fuel and oil filters I've found it's worth checking them for tightness after the thing has run for a few hours, as they'll often go up another half turn or so once they're warm.
 
I usually use a pair of oil wrench pliers as pictured by jamesmartin. There isn't a lot of room to manouver em but you can get to it from the top with em. You just need to break the seal and then wind it off my hand. I have used my strap wrench to do it but found the pliers easier. My chain wrench is a no go full stop. I haven't tried it with a cup wrench.

I removed my undertray for ease of maintenance. Imagine having to take it off if yer broken down on a greenlane.
 
I usually use a pair of oil wrench pliers as pictured by jamesmartin. There isn't a lot of room to manouver em but you can get to it from the top with em. You just need to break the seal and then wind it off my hand. I have used my strap wrench to do it but found the pliers easier. My chain wrench is a no go full stop. I haven't tried it with a cup wrench.

I removed my undertray for ease of maintenance. Imagine having to take it off if yer broken down on a greenlane.

OK, looks like I'm off to Halfords to get the pliers and I'll keep the chain wrench in the drawer. Thanks again guys.
 
wot they all said. :D

first time i changed the filter it was hand tight just about :eek:

My TD5 tray was non existent also when i bought mine. Have seen them smash when entering a ford or just deep water in general.
 
One thing - I'd be very wary of fitting anything other than a genuine Landrover OE centrifugal oil filter. The cheaper ones have been known to not fit properly and then not spin, thus negating their purpose. They'll 'fit' into the housing, but it's when the cover goes on they have problems and you'll never know until it's too late......
 
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