Series Landy Values

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
A

ANK84

Member
Posts
12
Hi Guys

Still on the search for a suitable S3. Out of interest where can I find a suitable gauge for current market values of different series so I know roughly what is a good deal etc?

I’ve got Maurice Thurman’s excellent buyers guide which talks in % of station wagon values with 109’s less than 88’s, truck cabs less than station wagons etc but not price ranges for different levels of condition etc.

I’ve kept an eye on the auctions - interestingly what I thought looked to be decent S3’s didn’t meet reserve at todays Brightwells -
Lot 315
Lot307

Any pointers into where I can find out guide prices would be appreciated.
 
ANK84 said:
Hi Guys

Still on the search for a suitable S3. Out of interest where can I find a suitable gauge for current market values of different series so I know roughly what is a good deal etc?

I’ve got Maurice Thurman’s excellent buyers guide which talks in % of station wagon values with 109’s less than 88’s, truck cabs less than station wagons etc but not price ranges for different levels of condition etc.

I’ve kept an eye on the auctions - interestingly what I thought looked to be decent S3’s didn’t meet reserve at todays Brightwells -
Lot 315
Lot307

Any pointers into where I can find out guide prices would be appreciated.
Click to expand...
I think there is a guide in LRM magazine, with prices given for vehicles in Poor, Fair, Good, and Excellent condition.
I could be wrong about that, it could be LRO Magazine, which I think is online only now.

But from my own experience, location is important. In the more remote areas, you will tend to get better deals, because not many people can be bothered to go and view the vehicles.
 
If you find a truck cab one in a good condition at a good price it's easy to change it to a station wagon and second hand hard tops aren't too expensive to buy,
 
It won’t matter. It will always cost you more than it’s worth in the long run.
Those nut and bolt concourse vehicles never sell for the asking price and everything else is a life sentence in maintenance.
There is no exchange rate for enthusiasm and love. It’s just the way it is. 😉

Rock up with cash and take the plunge. It’s what we all did if we are honest about it.
 
When we got a Series 2a made an offer I thought he would refuse as wasn't that bothered if we got it. Needless to say he accepted and therein started years of constant maintenance. We enjoyed having it, most of the time.
 
Ha thanks all for your insight and good humour. Agree that it will most definitely be a labour of love and spent most of the time chasing oil leaks around the place like the proverbial finger in the dyke.

Some useful pointers regarding LRM/LRO. I also caught a Series Land Rover magazine about as well which I’ll take a look at.
 
what spec are you looking for?,
On the road and Drivable land rovers can be found advertised for between 3k and 30k these days for the same model, some sell quick and others hang about for months, some folk want a rough project to spend their leisure time on whilst others want a restored one, some insist on original engines, some prefer later engines, there are so many varients,
have a look on ebay and perhaps post details of a few of which would suit you best spec,condition and price wise,
Personally i would go 2a over a 3 but that wouldnt be set in stone if a good local one came along,
Good luck with your search,
 
Palagius said:
what spec are you looking for?,
On the road and Drivable land rovers can be found advertised for between 3k and 30k these days for the same model, some sell quick and others hang about for months, some folk want a rough project to spend their leisure time on whilst others want a restored one, some insist on original engines, some prefer later engines, there are so many varients,
have a look on ebay and perhaps post details of a few of which would suit you best spec,condition and price wise,
Personally i would go 2a over a 3 but that wouldnt be set in stone if a good local one came along,
Good luck with your search,
Click to expand...
Thanks Palagius. TBH either a 2a or a 3 would suit be fine. The only reason I’m erring towards a S3 is they seem slightly cheaper in price, better electrics I’m told and servo assisted brakes etc.

I’m ideally after a bit of a rolling project. Will be my first classic landy so will be learning mechanics etc on the go. This is what really draws me to them to be honest. Therefore something fairly solid bulkhead and chassis wise that drives that I can do cosmetic work to/service/enhance etc over time. Not sure how realistic I’m being with my aspirations here I’ll be honest.
 
ANK84 said:
Thanks Palagius. TBH either a 2a or a 3 would suit be fine. The only reason I’m erring towards a S3 is they seem slightly cheaper in price, better electrics I’m told and servo assisted brakes etc.

I’m ideally after a bit of a rolling project. Will be my first classic landy so will be learning mechanics etc on the go. This is what really draws me to them to be honest. Therefore something fairly solid bulkhead and chassis wise that drives that I can do cosmetic work to/service/enhance etc over time. Not sure how realistic I’m being with my aspirations here I’ll be honest.
Click to expand...
Not all series 3 had servo assisted brakes the early ones had same as series 2,
 
ANK84 said:
Thanks Palagius. TBH either a 2a or a 3 would suit be fine. The only reason I’m erring towards a S3 is they seem slightly cheaper in price, better electrics I’m told and servo assisted brakes etc.

I’m ideally after a bit of a rolling project. Will be my first classic landy so will be learning mechanics etc on the go. This is what really draws me to them to be honest. Therefore something fairly solid bulkhead and chassis wise that drives that I can do cosmetic work to/service/enhance etc over time. Not sure how realistic I’m being with my aspirations here I’ll be honest.
Click to expand...
"Better" can also translate as "More complicated and expensive".
 
Beware of vehicles masquerading as things they are not. Tax free series 2's which are really 3's, galvanised chassis which is silver paint the list goes on.
Decide what you want and have a good look, preferably with someone who knows them. Take pictures and post and ask if you are not sure about anything.
For me I would want good chassis and solid bulkhead, everything else can be bolted in. Not to worried about originality as long as it genuine.
If you good with a welder then chassis rust may not be an issue.
It is a long list of what if's but take your time and choose wisely.
 
codfather79 said:
Unless you really really want and can do substantial component swap/repair/replacement, a solid chassis and bulkhead are essential.

I speak from bitter experience.

Never have words come back to mock me as much as;
It's only a chassis swap, it's only changing a bulkhead 🙄😭
Click to expand...
both of those tasks are "its only" jobs, a nice and straight forward nut and bolt job to do. Just take whatever your initial estimate of time and cost was and triple it! also allow for lots of scope creep and all the other parts you take off need to be rebuilt as well!
 
Shedload said:
Beware of vehicles masquerading as things they are not. Tax free series 2's which are really 3's, galvanised chassis which is silver paint the list goes on.
Decide what you want and have a good look, preferably with someone who knows them. Take pictures and post and ask if you are not sure about anything.
For me I would want good chassis and solid bulkhead, everything else can be bolted in. Not to worried about originality as long as it genuine.
If you good with a welder then chassis rust may not be an issue.
It is a long list of what if's but take your time and choose wisely.
Click to expand...
With the 40 year rolling period, there can't be many Series motors that aren't historic now. As for inspecting, well a Series Land Rover has to be about the easiest and most simple vehicle to inspect. If you can't assess one, you probably shouldn't be buying anything.
 
300bhp/ton said:
With the 40 year rolling period, there can't be many Series motors that aren't historic now. As for inspecting, well a Series Land Rover has to be about the easiest and most simple vehicle to inspect. If you can't assess one, you probably shouldn't be buying anything.
Click to expand...
Yes and no, if you are used to a modern car during your inspection and test drive you will think the whole thing is falling apart, and drives horribly even if in fine fettle just because it has leaf springs, no pas, and drums all around.
But in principle I agree you cannot get much more basic.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

ronsealdeath
1982 Series 3 2.25 petrol O/D t+t
Replies
1
Views
2K
ronsealdeath
ronsealdeath
Dr_evil
Series King Cab
61 62 63
Replies
1K
Views
116K
discomark10
discomark10
GRUNT
Buying a second hand 90
Replies
8
Views
4K
Pikey
Pikey
GRUNT
Buying a second hand 90
Replies
13
Views
10K
hugh3s
H
Back
Top