Series King Cab

Ill no doubt pick one up but for now the hand one will suffice

samc88 said:

Lazy tongs riveters are good, they stop you slipping or pinching your fingers

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Best way is lazy tongs. Dr if you have a stalk showing hit it with a hammer. Will usually pop out the other side.

I have been doing but if they don't come out I just take the grinder to it and slit the thing then leave it there

Anyway some progress made today but no pics as it was raining. Looking to be on target anyway.

Once you get the old stalk out a pair of pliers works.

mo_sizlac said:

Air rivet guns are awesome, fitted my toro overdrive leather gaiter thing to the seat box with it, easy as!

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they are ,never use any other type

jamesmartin said:

they are ,never use any other type

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Battery? No hose to pull about.

Aidso said:

Battery? No hose to pull about.

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too dear for the amount i use them

jamesmartin said:

too dear for the amount i use them

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Very true last one I used was about £400+

Getting there, need to get the gearbox crossmember sorted but not been able to get it off "the egg" yet other than that got the exhaust manifolds re studded, bumper is coming along nicely and thats about it really.

Rear tub cock up is sorted so I'll be installing it at the weekend as well as some trim panels for the rear bench too just to cover up some of the old damage from the last owner

Rear tub slipped in with no issues just need to rivet it in later, new slam panel blank is perfect and the only thing left to decide now is what to do about the rad and drivers manifold......

Drivers manifold now fouls the engine mount as it drops down in the centre so to get round this I can either fit one that exits at the front or rear. Rear would be the better bet, so P38 or SD1, with the P38 it's semi tubular like the passenger side and steel meaning I can easily modify it by cutting and welding

Rad wise I can now actually get away with fitting the rover one and lose three inches of the slam panel/body gap or lose two and have the Saab rad. Thinking rover one might be the best option as it has twin fans mounted to it already and if it fails then there's still room to fit the Saab one after. Not got Saab one with me as its in the workshop but rover one is pictured, will offer it up later in its final position once I make up a little bracket for the slam panel to sit on



Anyway pics!

Got the fuel tank return sorted out and then gave up and made the other series into an open top so we could go for a drive proper fun!

Gonna sort out my radiator mods later this week or tomorrow if I can be bothered

Doc that slam panel you made has no slots for air flow to cool the engine, am I missing something?

That's the blank, it's getting some holes cut for air flow and a couple for the mini headlights. Old ones base was rotten so thought may as well sort it out. Slam panel also needed modding so that I can fit the rad in behind it so I lose about a third of the gap between panel and wing tips but it'll still look like a series.

It also means I can get a viscous and twin electrics in there! That'll really help the cooling issues, I could even fit the third leccy one if I want.
The slam mesh will then be made from a nice aggressive diamond sheet I have knocking about.


You can see it resting on the wall here, I'm also going to make up some new chassis mounts for the engine and chop off the old ones so I can use any exhaust set up I want, just need to calculate the angles and sizes or chop some off a V8 disco then weld them on

Whipped off the PTO cover on my LT230 to have a look at the input gear………


Well its tighter than a gnats chuff, no play whatsoever! Gearbox in neutral transfer in high and high lock as well as neutral, no slack as far as I could see. Turned dog gear on the end by hand and the others followed suit without hesitation


Decided to fabricate some new engine mounts this week too so I can use the standard exhaust without any modification. Far better option to do it right once I think. It'll never be standard again and an engine mount doesn't count as chassis modification as far as I can tell from reading round


Richards do offer the mounts for £20 from what I've read on other forums but if they're not making them anymore I'll fab some up. I want to make them slip over the chassis leg so I can get a weld on the outside, top and inside given that it'll be slightly awkward with the engine in there to get a full seam on the inside

Its looking good

+1, that chunky bar welded onto the front of the chassis looks cool

I was actually gonna cut that off and put a bumper on there instead! May keep it and have both

Right, update time


Gearbox mount gotten, new engine mounts in process, radiator modification in process and feeling good about it

Sliders need picking up still as I decided I couldn't be arsed collecting them yet but yeah, this should hopefully be good to have a little drive around in at the end of week after next assuming my engine mounts arrive on time to get welded in and I can pilfer a littler inverter welder to use there as my oil filled ones far too big!

New engine mounts from Richards £20 plus VAT and postage so £36 to my door isn't bad……would have been £20 had I lived near enough to warrant a drive down with cash but ho hum

Anyway D Day approaches!

Went in to check process of my rad today and it'll be a £60 job which isn't too bad…….gonna return the Saab one I got in exchange for some other useful bits from the scrappy. Thinking an old bike fuel tank would do nicely as a swirl pot with a quick mod, i.e. soft solder in a couple of hose in/outs