Series III steering

C

cutlea01

Guest

• Jul 20, 2004

• #1

How much steering play/wandering is typical of a Series III? I've
replaced all worn spring and chassis bushes on the back (fronts look
fine), replaced 4 steering balljoints, longitudinal rod joints look
fine (anyway, can't get the steering arm off!), adjusted the steering
box and reshimmed the swivels. But still the car wanders a bit. It's
livable with and dosen't feel dangerous, though am I hoping for a ride
I'm not gonna get? Thing is, my normal everyday car is a P38 Rangie,
and these cars are worlds apart!

Alan C

1975 Series III LWB
1998 4.6 HSE Rangie

 

M

Mother

Guest

• Jul 20, 2004

• #2

On 20 Jul 2004 15:16:24 -0700, [email protected] (cutlea01) wrote:

>But still the car wanders a bit. It's
>livable with and dosen't feel dangerous,

Well you're not going to be concerned about 70+ mph on a motorway...

Mine used to wander a bit. Actually, it used to go to the shops
without me knowing...

Give it a good straight run and see if it pulls - maybe nothing to do
with steering, may be suspension or even a badly welded front dumbiron
relacements making the front end eneven (lower on one side).


--
Some Land Roveresque (101 biased), links available
from: http://links.solis.co.uk/Geek/X4_Land_Rover/
I also have a little Land Rover site biased toward
my beloved 101 "Grumble", at: http://www.101fc.net


Reading this in 'alt.fan.landrover'? Did you know
there's a group FAQ: http://www.aflfaq.dyndns.info

 

T

Tim Hobbs

Guest

• Jul 21, 2004

• #3

On 20 Jul 2004 15:16:24 -0700, [email protected] (cutlea01) wrote:

>How much steering play/wandering is typical of a Series III? I've
>replaced all worn spring and chassis bushes on the back (fronts look
>fine), replaced 4 steering balljoints, longitudinal rod joints look
>fine (anyway, can't get the steering arm off!), adjusted the steering
>box and reshimmed the swivels. But still the car wanders a bit. It's
>livable with and dosen't feel dangerous, though am I hoping for a ride
>I'm not gonna get? Thing is, my normal everyday car is a P38 Rangie,
>and these cars are worlds apart!
>
>Alan C
>
>1975 Series III LWB
>1998 4.6 HSE Rangie

The biggest improvement I ever made to my S2 was putting radial tyres
on it. It suddenly stopped changing lanes without me noticing.

You are unlikely to get stability to rival the P38 though...


--

Tim Hobbs

'58 Series 2 88" aka "Stig"
'77 101FC Ambulance aka "Burrt"
'95 Discovery V8i aka "The Disco" (FOR SALE)
'03 Volvo V70

My Landies? http://www.seriesii.co.uk
Barcoding? http://www.bartec-systems.com
Tony Luckwill web archive at http://www.luckwill.com

 

J

JD

Guest

• Jul 21, 2004

• #4

cutlea01 wrote:

> How much steering play/wandering is typical of a Series III? I've
> replaced all worn spring and chassis bushes on the back (fronts look
> fine), replaced 4 steering balljoints, longitudinal rod joints look
> fine (anyway, can't get the steering arm off!), adjusted the steering
> box and reshimmed the swivels. But still the car wanders a bit. It's
> livable with and dosen't feel dangerous, though am I hoping for a ride
> I'm not gonna get? Thing is, my normal everyday car is a P38 Rangie,
> and these cars are worlds apart!
>
> Alan C
>
> 1975 Series III LWB
> 1998 4.6 HSE Rangie

Actual play should be less than an inch on the wheel rim. If there is no
excess play and it still wanders, look at -
1. U-bolts tight.
2. No excess play in wheel bearings
3. Tyre pressures correct
4. Tyres all the same, and a suitable type for your driving. Radials will
reduce wander but may increase steering load when parking.
5. Steering box loose
6. Relay unit arms loose on splines
7. Relay unit loose loose in ring on bottom of chassis.
8. Damaged or out of balance wheels
9. Steering arms loose on swivel housing


It is unlikely you will get it as good tracking as a P38, but it should not
be too bad when everything is in shape.
JD

 

C

cutlea01

Guest

• Jul 21, 2004

• #5

> The biggest improvement I ever made to my S2 was putting radial tyres
> on it. It suddenly stopped changing lanes without me noticing.
>
> You are unlikely to get stability to rival the P38 though...
>
>
> --
>
> Tim Hobbs
>
> '58 Series 2 88" aka "Stig"
> '77 101FC Ambulance aka "Burrt"
> '95 Discovery V8i aka "The Disco" (FOR SALE)
> '03 Volvo V70
>
> My Landies? http://www.seriesii.co.uk
> Barcoding? http://www.bartec-systems.com
> Tony Luckwill web archive at http://www.luckwill.com

I've got 235 85 R16s on it at the mo, all decent Track Edge too. The
steering is heavy, though not unmanageable. There's no play I can see
anywhere, yet still when driving there is about a quarter turn of the
steering wheel required evey so often to keep in a straight line.
Without driving another Series III, I don't know if this is normal.
Perhaps I'm comparing it to the Rangie when I shouldn't!!

Alan C

 

R

Richard Brookman

Guest

• Jul 21, 2004

• #6

Tim Hobbs <[email protected]> wrote

> The biggest improvement I ever made to my S2 was putting radial tyres
> on it. It suddenly stopped changing lanes without me noticing.
>
> You are unlikely to get stability to rival the P38 though...

Mind you, the Rangie ain't exactly a MacLaren F1 in that respect. ;-)

Rich

Rangie 4.6
Tiggrr V8 trialler

 

L

Larry

Guest

• Jul 21, 2004

• #7

Well I just thought vague steering was part and parcel of the whole series
experience and was inherent in the design dating back to the 1940's with no
nod to innovation.

I do not think anything is dangeros if the driver has the capacity to handle
it.
In two previos cars, braking produced a pronounced pull to the left, it was
something I compensated for over time, but woe betide me if I used another
car inbetween.

If anything having to keep your mind on keeping a straight line keeps you
alert and awake, I would guess that a lot of modern motors, with no feedback
from the road, traction control, abs etc, could lead one into a false sence
of security.

At least when I am flat out it feels like it, unlike my limo, which although
it only had a top speed of 110 felt like it was doing 30.


--
Larry
Series 3 rust and holes


"cutlea01" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> How much steering play/wandering is typical of a Series III? I've
> replaced all worn spring and chassis bushes on the back (fronts look
> fine), replaced 4 steering balljoints, longitudinal rod joints look
> fine (anyway, can't get the steering arm off!), adjusted the steering
> box and reshimmed the swivels. But still the car wanders a bit. It's
> livable with and dosen't feel dangerous, though am I hoping for a ride
> I'm not gonna get? Thing is, my normal everyday car is a P38 Rangie,
> and these cars are worlds apart!
>
> Alan C
>
> 1975 Series III LWB
> 1998 4.6 HSE Rangie

 

C

cutlea01

Guest

• Jul 21, 2004

• #8

>
> Actual play should be less than an inch on the wheel rim. If there is no
> excess play and it still wanders, look at -
> 1. U-bolts tight.
> 2. No excess play in wheel bearings
> 3. Tyre pressures correct
> 4. Tyres all the same, and a suitable type for your driving. Radials will
> reduce wander but may increase steering load when parking.
> 5. Steering box loose
> 6. Relay unit arms loose on splines
> 7. Relay unit loose loose in ring on bottom of chassis.
> 8. Damaged or out of balance wheels
> 9. Steering arms loose on swivel housing
>
>
> It is unlikely you will get it as good tracking as a P38, but it should not
> be too bad when everything is in shape.
> JD

I've checked all the above, and it's all as it should be. As I
corrected some faults the steering did improve, lose front bearing and
swivel, knackered rear spring bushes etc. It's still not what I would
consider as it should be though. While driving many steering inputs
are required to keep the car pointing where I want it to be. Only
bushes I've not changed are the front spring and chassis ones. I've
got them (actually been fitting a polybush kit), so I'll put them on
shortly. How do other peoples cars drive? I know the P38 Rangie
isn't the best handling car around, but even then, it's just soooo
much better than my 109!!

 

D

David G. Bell

Guest

• Jul 21, 2004

• #9

On 21 Jul, in article
<[email protected]>
[email protected] "cutlea01" wrote:

> >
> > Actual play should be less than an inch on the wheel rim. If there is no
> > excess play and it still wanders, look at -
> > 1. U-bolts tight.
> > 2. No excess play in wheel bearings
> > 3. Tyre pressures correct
> > 4. Tyres all the same, and a suitable type for your driving. Radials will
> > reduce wander but may increase steering load when parking.
> > 5. Steering box loose
> > 6. Relay unit arms loose on splines
> > 7. Relay unit loose loose in ring on bottom of chassis.
> > 8. Damaged or out of balance wheels
> > 9. Steering arms loose on swivel housing
> >
> >
> > It is unlikely you will get it as good tracking as a P38, but it should not
> > be too bad when everything is in shape.
> > JD
>
> I've checked all the above, and it's all as it should be. As I
> corrected some faults the steering did improve, lose front bearing and
> swivel, knackered rear spring bushes etc. It's still not what I would
> consider as it should be though. While driving many steering inputs
> are required to keep the car pointing where I want it to be. Only
> bushes I've not changed are the front spring and chassis ones. I've
> got them (actually been fitting a polybush kit), so I'll put them on
> shortly. How do other peoples cars drive? I know the P38 Rangie
> isn't the best handling car around, but even then, it's just soooo
> much better than my 109!!

Is the toe-in right?

There's various things that can throw it off, such as spring bushes, and
can even lead to it being wrongly adjusted after a fault is repaired.

--
David G. Bell -- SF Fan, Filker, and Punslinger.

"History shows that the Singularity started when Sir Tim Berners-Lee
was bitten by a radioactive spider."

 

T

Tom Woods

Guest

• Jul 21, 2004

• #10

On 21 Jul 2004 13:36:33 -0700, [email protected] (cutlea01) wrote:

>>
>> Actual play should be less than an inch on the wheel rim. If there is no
>> excess play and it still wanders, look at -
>> 1. U-bolts tight.
>> 2. No excess play in wheel bearings
>> 3. Tyre pressures correct
>> 4. Tyres all the same, and a suitable type for your driving. Radials will
>> reduce wander but may increase steering load when parking.
>> 5. Steering box loose
>> 6. Relay unit arms loose on splines
>> 7. Relay unit loose loose in ring on bottom of chassis.
>> 8. Damaged or out of balance wheels
>> 9. Steering arms loose on swivel housing
>>
>>
>> It is unlikely you will get it as good tracking as a P38, but it should not
>> be too bad when everything is in shape.
>> JD
>
>I've checked all the above, and it's all as it should be. As I
>corrected some faults the steering did improve, lose front bearing and
>swivel, knackered rear spring bushes etc. It's still not what I would
>consider as it should be though. While driving many steering inputs
>are required to keep the car pointing where I want it to be. Only
>bushes I've not changed are the front spring and chassis ones. I've
>got them (actually been fitting a polybush kit), so I'll put them on
>shortly. How do other peoples cars drive? I know the P38 Rangie
>isn't the best handling car around, but even then, it's just soooo
>much better than my 109!!

Have you checked the swivel pins and swivel bushes too?. My mates
landy used to wander a lot and taking a few shims off the swivel pins
improved it a lot. On bumpy roads his landy would be all over the
place.

Puting new pins and bushes in mine made it a lot tighter too.

 

E

EMB

Guest

• Jul 22, 2004

• #11

cutlea01 wrote:
> I've got 235 85 R16s on it at the mo, all decent Track Edge too. The
> steering is heavy, though not unmanageable. There's no play I can see
> anywhere, yet still when driving there is about a quarter turn of the
> steering wheel required evey so often to keep in a straight line.
> Without driving another Series III, I don't know if this is normal.
> Perhaps I'm comparing it to the Rangie when I shouldn't!!
>
I've found that with radials on a Series toe-in is critical. Set the
wheels dead parallel or a very small (1mm) toe in. Any toe out will
make it wander badly. Also tyre pressure makes a big difference. Trial
and error is probably the best way to find the ideal pressure - I tend
to run a higher pressure than the traditional reccomendations - the
softer sidealls on radials mean you need more pressure to stop the tyre
moving all over the place - about 32F/30R in an 88" on 205R16's and more
in my friends 109 on 235/85R16's. Have a play with the pressures - you
can't really hurt anything.

--
EMB
change two to number to reply

 

L

Larry

Guest

• Jul 21, 2004

• #12

Well I just thought vague steering was part and parcel of the whole series
experience and was inherent in the design dating back to the 1940's with no
nod to innovation.

I do not think anything is dangeros if the driver has the capacity to handle
it.
In two previos cars, braking produced a pronounced pull to the left, it was
something I compensated for over time, but woe betide me if I used another
car inbetween.

If anything having to keep your mind on keeping a straight line keeps you
alert and awake, I would guess that a lot of modern motors, with no feedback
from the road, traction control, abs etc, could lead one into a false sence
of security.

At least when I am flat out it feels like it, unlike my limo, which although
it only had a top speed of 110 felt like it was doing 30.


--
Larry
Series 3 rust and holes


"cutlea01" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> How much steering play/wandering is typical of a Series III? I've
> replaced all worn spring and chassis bushes on the back (fronts look
> fine), replaced 4 steering balljoints, longitudinal rod joints look
> fine (anyway, can't get the steering arm off!), adjusted the steering
> box and reshimmed the swivels. But still the car wanders a bit. It's
> livable with and dosen't feel dangerous, though am I hoping for a ride
> I'm not gonna get? Thing is, my normal everyday car is a P38 Rangie,
> and these cars are worlds apart!
>
> Alan C
>
> 1975 Series III LWB
> 1998 4.6 HSE Rangie

 

C

cutlea01

Guest

• Jul 21, 2004

• #13

>
> Actual play should be less than an inch on the wheel rim. If there is no
> excess play and it still wanders, look at -
> 1. U-bolts tight.
> 2. No excess play in wheel bearings
> 3. Tyre pressures correct
> 4. Tyres all the same, and a suitable type for your driving. Radials will
> reduce wander but may increase steering load when parking.
> 5. Steering box loose
> 6. Relay unit arms loose on splines
> 7. Relay unit loose loose in ring on bottom of chassis.
> 8. Damaged or out of balance wheels
> 9. Steering arms loose on swivel housing
>
>
> It is unlikely you will get it as good tracking as a P38, but it should not
> be too bad when everything is in shape.
> JD

I've checked all the above, and it's all as it should be. As I
corrected some faults the steering did improve, lose front bearing and
swivel, knackered rear spring bushes etc. It's still not what I would
consider as it should be though. While driving many steering inputs
are required to keep the car pointing where I want it to be. Only
bushes I've not changed are the front spring and chassis ones. I've
got them (actually been fitting a polybush kit), so I'll put them on
shortly. How do other peoples cars drive? I know the P38 Rangie
isn't the best handling car around, but even then, it's just soooo
much better than my 109!!

 

J

JD

Guest

• Jul 21, 2004

• #14

cutlea01 wrote:

> How much steering play/wandering is typical of a Series III? I've
> replaced all worn spring and chassis bushes on the back (fronts look
> fine), replaced 4 steering balljoints, longitudinal rod joints look
> fine (anyway, can't get the steering arm off!), adjusted the steering
> box and reshimmed the swivels. But still the car wanders a bit. It's
> livable with and dosen't feel dangerous, though am I hoping for a ride
> I'm not gonna get? Thing is, my normal everyday car is a P38 Rangie,
> and these cars are worlds apart!
>
> Alan C
>
> 1975 Series III LWB
> 1998 4.6 HSE Rangie

Actual play should be less than an inch on the wheel rim. If there is no
excess play and it still wanders, look at -
1. U-bolts tight.
2. No excess play in wheel bearings
3. Tyre pressures correct
4. Tyres all the same, and a suitable type for your driving. Radials will
reduce wander but may increase steering load when parking.
5. Steering box loose
6. Relay unit arms loose on splines
7. Relay unit loose loose in ring on bottom of chassis.
8. Damaged or out of balance wheels
9. Steering arms loose on swivel housing


It is unlikely you will get it as good tracking as a P38, but it should not
be too bad when everything is in shape.
JD

 

C

cutlea01

Guest

• Jul 21, 2004

• #15

> The biggest improvement I ever made to my S2 was putting radial tyres
> on it. It suddenly stopped changing lanes without me noticing.
>
> You are unlikely to get stability to rival the P38 though...
>
>
> --
>
> Tim Hobbs
>
> '58 Series 2 88" aka "Stig"
> '77 101FC Ambulance aka "Burrt"
> '95 Discovery V8i aka "The Disco" (FOR SALE)
> '03 Volvo V70
>
> My Landies? http://www.seriesii.co.uk
> Barcoding? http://www.bartec-systems.com
> Tony Luckwill web archive at http://www.luckwill.com

I've got 235 85 R16s on it at the mo, all decent Track Edge too. The
steering is heavy, though not unmanageable. There's no play I can see
anywhere, yet still when driving there is about a quarter turn of the
steering wheel required evey so often to keep in a straight line.
Without driving another Series III, I don't know if this is normal.
Perhaps I'm comparing it to the Rangie when I shouldn't!!

Alan C

 

T

Tim Hobbs

Guest

• Jul 21, 2004

• #16

On 20 Jul 2004 15:16:24 -0700, [email protected] (cutlea01) wrote:

>How much steering play/wandering is typical of a Series III? I've
>replaced all worn spring and chassis bushes on the back (fronts look
>fine), replaced 4 steering balljoints, longitudinal rod joints look
>fine (anyway, can't get the steering arm off!), adjusted the steering
>box and reshimmed the swivels. But still the car wanders a bit. It's
>livable with and dosen't feel dangerous, though am I hoping for a ride
>I'm not gonna get? Thing is, my normal everyday car is a P38 Rangie,
>and these cars are worlds apart!
>
>Alan C
>
>1975 Series III LWB
>1998 4.6 HSE Rangie

The biggest improvement I ever made to my S2 was putting radial tyres
on it. It suddenly stopped changing lanes without me noticing.

You are unlikely to get stability to rival the P38 though...


--

Tim Hobbs

'58 Series 2 88" aka "Stig"
'77 101FC Ambulance aka "Burrt"
'95 Discovery V8i aka "The Disco" (FOR SALE)
'03 Volvo V70

My Landies? http://www.seriesii.co.uk
Barcoding? http://www.bartec-systems.com
Tony Luckwill web archive at http://www.luckwill.com

 

D

David G. Bell

Guest

• Jul 21, 2004

• #17

On 21 Jul, in article
<[email protected]>
[email protected] "cutlea01" wrote:

> >
> > Actual play should be less than an inch on the wheel rim. If there is no
> > excess play and it still wanders, look at -
> > 1. U-bolts tight.
> > 2. No excess play in wheel bearings
> > 3. Tyre pressures correct
> > 4. Tyres all the same, and a suitable type for your driving. Radials will
> > reduce wander but may increase steering load when parking.
> > 5. Steering box loose
> > 6. Relay unit arms loose on splines
> > 7. Relay unit loose loose in ring on bottom of chassis.
> > 8. Damaged or out of balance wheels
> > 9. Steering arms loose on swivel housing
> >
> >
> > It is unlikely you will get it as good tracking as a P38, but it should not
> > be too bad when everything is in shape.
> > JD
>
> I've checked all the above, and it's all as it should be. As I
> corrected some faults the steering did improve, lose front bearing and
> swivel, knackered rear spring bushes etc. It's still not what I would
> consider as it should be though. While driving many steering inputs
> are required to keep the car pointing where I want it to be. Only
> bushes I've not changed are the front spring and chassis ones. I've
> got them (actually been fitting a polybush kit), so I'll put them on
> shortly. How do other peoples cars drive? I know the P38 Rangie
> isn't the best handling car around, but even then, it's just soooo
> much better than my 109!!

Is the toe-in right?

There's various things that can throw it off, such as spring bushes, and
can even lead to it being wrongly adjusted after a fault is repaired.

--
David G. Bell -- SF Fan, Filker, and Punslinger.

"History shows that the Singularity started when Sir Tim Berners-Lee
was bitten by a radioactive spider."

 

T

Tom Woods

Guest

• Jul 21, 2004

• #18

On 21 Jul 2004 13:36:33 -0700, [email protected] (cutlea01) wrote:

>>
>> Actual play should be less than an inch on the wheel rim. If there is no
>> excess play and it still wanders, look at -
>> 1. U-bolts tight.
>> 2. No excess play in wheel bearings
>> 3. Tyre pressures correct
>> 4. Tyres all the same, and a suitable type for your driving. Radials will
>> reduce wander but may increase steering load when parking.
>> 5. Steering box loose
>> 6. Relay unit arms loose on splines
>> 7. Relay unit loose loose in ring on bottom of chassis.
>> 8. Damaged or out of balance wheels
>> 9. Steering arms loose on swivel housing
>>
>>
>> It is unlikely you will get it as good tracking as a P38, but it should not
>> be too bad when everything is in shape.
>> JD
>
>I've checked all the above, and it's all as it should be. As I
>corrected some faults the steering did improve, lose front bearing and
>swivel, knackered rear spring bushes etc. It's still not what I would
>consider as it should be though. While driving many steering inputs
>are required to keep the car pointing where I want it to be. Only
>bushes I've not changed are the front spring and chassis ones. I've
>got them (actually been fitting a polybush kit), so I'll put them on
>shortly. How do other peoples cars drive? I know the P38 Rangie
>isn't the best handling car around, but even then, it's just soooo
>much better than my 109!!

Have you checked the swivel pins and swivel bushes too?. My mates
landy used to wander a lot and taking a few shims off the swivel pins
improved it a lot. On bumpy roads his landy would be all over the
place.

Puting new pins and bushes in mine made it a lot tighter too.

 

J

Jason Hall

Guest

• Jul 28, 2004

• #19

Mine wandered like mad . changed the leaf bushes and it cured it.
Leaves are now being changed for parabolics and es3000s.
Will i need to change my shims for the new srpings.?


--
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/jason.hall8/Sites.html

--
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/jason.hall8/Sites.html
"Tom Woods" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 21 Jul 2004 13:36:33 -0700, [email protected] (cutlea01) wrote:
>
> >>
> >> Actual play should be less than an inch on the wheel rim. If there is
no
> >> excess play and it still wanders, look at -
> >> 1. U-bolts tight.
> >> 2. No excess play in wheel bearings
> >> 3. Tyre pressures correct
> >> 4. Tyres all the same, and a suitable type for your driving. Radials
will
> >> reduce wander but may increase steering load when parking.
> >> 5. Steering box loose
> >> 6. Relay unit arms loose on splines
> >> 7. Relay unit loose loose in ring on bottom of chassis.
> >> 8. Damaged or out of balance wheels
> >> 9. Steering arms loose on swivel housing
> >>
> >>
> >> It is unlikely you will get it as good tracking as a P38, but it should
not
> >> be too bad when everything is in shape.
> >> JD
> >
> >I've checked all the above, and it's all as it should be. As I
> >corrected some faults the steering did improve, lose front bearing and
> >swivel, knackered rear spring bushes etc. It's still not what I would
> >consider as it should be though. While driving many steering inputs
> >are required to keep the car pointing where I want it to be. Only
> >bushes I've not changed are the front spring and chassis ones. I've
> >got them (actually been fitting a polybush kit), so I'll put them on
> >shortly. How do other peoples cars drive? I know the P38 Rangie
> >isn't the best handling car around, but even then, it's just soooo
> >much better than my 109!!
>
> Have you checked the swivel pins and swivel bushes too?. My mates
> landy used to wander a lot and taking a few shims off the swivel pins
> improved it a lot. On bumpy roads his landy would be all over the
> place.
>
> Puting new pins and bushes in mine made it a lot tighter too.

 

E

EMB

Guest

• Jul 22, 2004

• #20

cutlea01 wrote:
> I've got 235 85 R16s on it at the mo, all decent Track Edge too. The
> steering is heavy, though not unmanageable. There's no play I can see
> anywhere, yet still when driving there is about a quarter turn of the
> steering wheel required evey so often to keep in a straight line.
> Without driving another Series III, I don't know if this is normal.
> Perhaps I'm comparing it to the Rangie when I shouldn't!!
>
I've found that with radials on a Series toe-in is critical. Set the
wheels dead parallel or a very small (1mm) toe in. Any toe out will
make it wander badly. Also tyre pressure makes a big difference. Trial
and error is probably the best way to find the ideal pressure - I tend
to run a higher pressure than the traditional reccomendations - the
softer sidealls on radials mean you need more pressure to stop the tyre
moving all over the place - about 32F/30R in an 88" on 205R16's and more
in my friends 109 on 235/85R16's. Have a play with the pressures - you
can't really hurt anything.

--
EMB
change two to number to reply