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Series III steering question

Discussion in 'Series Land Rovers' started by dmpl, Nov 21, 2010.

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  1. dmpl

    dmpl New Member

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    I have just acquired a Series III running on 6.00 X 16 tyres. When driving it wanders a bit meaning constant steering corrections. Would fitting larger tyres/wheels put a stop to this?
    Thanks
    Des
     
  2. GRATCH

    GRATCH Trollied

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    They would probably amplify the problem. The whole steering system sounds like it needs a thorough check. Start with the trackrod ends, you have six iirc, two on the longitudinal bar from steering box to steering relay, two on the drag link bar from bottom of steering relay to hub and two on the bar that connects the hubs, replace any which are worn. Then check swivel pins and bearings, jack up each front wheel and grip at 6 and 12 o'clock and rock wheel, if any movement is felt get someone to put their foot on the brake if movement is still there it is the swivel pins that need shims removing, if the movement stops the wheel bearings need adjusting or renewing. Also check that the steering relay and swivel housings have oil in them. The steering relay also could have play in it but these usually rust in the front crossmember and can be a right bastard to remove. There's ya jobs for today, go play and report back what you find.
     
  3. dr pepper

    dr pepper New Member

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    Better get it right soonish, wear or play in the system can ofetn result in the dreaded 'death wobble', not a very pleasant thing to happen.
     
  4. Davec

    Davec New Member

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    Gratch has covered most things, but wandering steering can be caused by the steering being too tight, resulting in you constantly over correcting. Commonest causes are problem lack of oil in the steering relay or top swivels on the hubs too tight (the opposite is more likely) Does it have Free Wheeling Hubs?
    Follow Gratch's advise first though.
    Whatever the problem bigger tyres will almost certainly make things worse.
     
  5. oxides

    oxides Well-Known Member

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    Not to mention the steering box itself - there's an adjuster nut on the side but if it's too loose in the middle and too tight on full lock it's buggered. You can replace all of the internals but some of the bits are hard to find (did mine this year) but if the worm on the shaft is worn you might be better off with a recon one.
     
  6. dmpl

    dmpl New Member

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    Thanks to you all.
    I've got so much to learn and I will get there thanks to advice from people like you.
    When I have sorted this problem, I will be back with the next one!
    Thanks Everybody
    Des
     
  7. newlad

    newlad Active Member

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    hi, i have the dreaded wollowing on my series 2a,
    dont wanna sound daft but had a look at the steering relay on my landy today, where do i fill her up?! just cant seem to see anywhere :confused: i thought i'd ask before i take to much appart!
    i topped up the swivel housing's (which were a little low) and steering box.
    many thanks
     
  8. oxides

    oxides Well-Known Member

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    The top cover bolts are drilled through into the casing. Take off the radiator grill, pop two of the bolts out (one to fill, one to breathe) and add EP90 (You'll probably need a small funnel) down one hole until it comes out the other. Job done.
     
  9. cornish rattler

    cornish rattler Well-Known Member

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    check that both pinch bolts in the drop arm and top arm attatched to the relay are tight also if you can have someone with you to work the steering wheel and spray some penetrating oil on the splines get the other person to waggle the steering wheel and see if there is movement in the splines of the relay and splines of the arms if there is play and the arms are tightened up properly the splines in the relay and or arms are worn, to be on the safe side i would replace the relay and both arms.

    graham
    _________________
    98 d1 300tdi auto.
     
  10. oxides

    oxides Well-Known Member

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    ...if you can get the relay out!
     
  11. Jamesbil

    Jamesbil New Member

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    my wander was easily solved by adjusting the toe-in, wheels were splayed out instead of slightly in!
     
  12. newlad

    newlad Active Member

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    well i topped up the steering relay, had to get the battery and tray out to expose a second bolt to release air, while i had that off i moved the air box aside so as i could see everything going on, got the misses to wiggle the wheel, no play through the steering box down to the steering relay, still nothing, down to the first track rod end nothing, then at the second track rod end i struck, 'play', the track rod end is loose on the threads it seems, both rods not looking too good at all, luckily my new ones arrived yesterday, i'll be fitting them tommorow, thanks for all the advice, much appreciated, one tip i have - if you dont have a suitable funnel for the steering relay bolt, i used the nossle off a tube of silicone (unused of course!! lol) worked a treat!
     
  13. oxides

    oxides Well-Known Member

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    ??? you get at the relay by taking the front grill off! Four screws and you're there.
     
  14. newlad

    newlad Active Member

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    yea but after the grill is off only one bolt is on show, so instead of removing the arm off the steering relay i went to the opposite one, under the battery.
    the free spooling arm on my winch was a bit of a hinderance on the front too.
    do you normally remove the arm then? or how do you do it?
     
  15. GRATCH

    GRATCH Trollied

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    Did you try putting the steering on one lock then the other to get at the bolts?
     
  16. newlad

    newlad Active Member

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    :doh: but at least it let me look into the steering rod etc properly, lesson learned! :5bblush5:
     
  17. oxides

    oxides Well-Known Member

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    :d:d
     
  18. ciderman

    ciderman Active Member

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    I had the same problem recently on tarquin (my S3)
    get assistant to sit behind steering wheel.
    tell them to grasp wheel.
    and commence rocking. the wheel....
    start at 1mm then 2mm then 3mm, etc and observe each bit of the steering linkage when it begins to move. tackle each joint in turn from the steering box. over a short period i found upper and lower relay clamps were loose. i could just see an oily squidge when the amplitude was sufficient to move it.
    How? i don't know. and one clamp bolt was allowing a ball joint to move a little.
    all done, and now i can cruise at speed up to 50mph without fear!
     
  19. blue beasty

    blue beasty Leaks an prone to bits dropping off Global Moderator

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    Edited for accuracy :eek::D
     
  20. newlad

    newlad Active Member

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    well i changedmy track tubes today, now when driving she doesn't seem to wander like she did, gonna give her a good run tomorrow to see how she is,
    the thing is the steering wheel is still moving alot before much action, was just wondering how much is normal?
     
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