Series 2a 2.25 petrol struggling to start

NEWS!! She runs! Well very roughly and only when I start with accelerator pedal to the floor and don't take my foot off but it's a step forward. Any advice on what to do now? As in can I adjust carb so that it idles? I adjusted the bottom screw adjustment as per advice and I recon that's how it eventually started , but is that the idle screw (the lower one facing bulkhead direction) ? Thanks again for everyone's advice

clean the jets

Well done does your carb have a gauze filter behind th petrol inlet pipe
Have you been through steps the handbook mentioned earlier as above

Thanks for that, I had the carb apart on Saturday and I thought the jets were clear but taking it apart again just now to make sure. Getting fuel up to carb for sure and also the gauze filter that's there seems fine and letting fuel through no problem. I will change that filter ASAP too though when servicing it all once I know it's running ok. Is the idle jet /pilot ret the one that's low down in the bowl of the carb? I know the accelerator one is near the top. Weber 34ich . Thanks!

https://www.carbparts.eu/exploded_view/WEBER_34_ICH

Nice diagram here

Well problem solved!! Thanks for everyone's help and advice, it turns out the distributer had been moved and was out timing wise. A mechanic friend dropped by last night to have a listen and helped move to get the timing sorted. Engine sounds great! Really happy with it. Rocker cover gasket seems to be seeping oil so I will
Change that next while I service the engine and flush radiatior etc, hoses are starting to look past their best too so will replace these also. I have the charge light staying on when engine is running? Would that indicate a problem with the dynamo or possibly just wiring. Thanks, mark

Brilliant, glad to hear a positive resolution, told you it would be timing related
It's normal for the charge warning light to glow when running at idle. It should go out with a few revs. You should also see the ammeter move from just below 0 to a reasonable positive number with a few revs also, depending on load and state of charge of the battery

Loose fan belt or wires ?

The red light should still be on at idle though, this stops the battery discharging thru the dynamo

Cheers for that info, il check it out and can now properly start fault finding and start restoring. You were definitely right about the timing! I couldn't believe how far out the distributer was. It looked like it hadn't been touched in years.

So I had the engine running for 15 minutes or so this morning as I was working on something else, when I switched off and went to restart nothing happened, so untried again and I got a clicking? However when I try some times it clicks and others it doesn't do a thing. Battery is fine and I tried to boost battery off my van also . Does it sound like starter motor has failed?

Do your headlights come on nice and bright?
Is it a push button start under the dash? That should work even when the key is turned off. If you're lucky, the solenoid in the engine bay has a button underneath to manually activate. Could be dodgy inside

The headlights I haven't had working yet, that was on the list, the side lights were working fine etc. No push button, just key to start, would it be best to strip starter out and see if it runs off jump leads? I have been cranking and cranking for a week when trying to get it going in the first place? Thanks again

Check you've got 12v at the solenoid, then check you've got 12v at the starter. If you don't, then short the solenoid connections with something stout and that should get the starter turning. Be prepared for a big spark and the engine turning! Makes for a big jump if your not expecting it. If only be taking the starter off if it's getting 12v and not doing anything. Especially if it sounded ok last time it turned over.
You've checked the engine earth i presume?

I didn't have time to have a go at anything else earlier, I will check the engine earth first then make sure I'm getting 12volt accross solenoid. Hopefully something simple enough. Once I get this sorted I'm going to bleed the clutch and brakes over the next week and then once I know everything's ok I can start dismantling and start on chassis.

The usual pattern for landrovers is, you fix a fault then find another, you fix that and then find another and so on until either you die or you sell it.

Col

Colthebrummie said:

The usual pattern for landrovers is, you fix a fault then find 2 others, you fix that and then find another and so on until either you die or you sell it.

Col

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Fixed that for you

Sounds like my new hobby will be keeping me busy then. I can only get short slots the odd evening and at weekends having two toddlers and running a buisness, it's all go. But I recon il have a lot more faults to sort before getting onto the chassis refurb etc, really appreciate everyone's contributions and taking the time to reply and answer my queries, even when they are beginners questions ! Really enjoying it so far, it has only been a week and half haha.

After a while you just get used to some faults and live with them, or at least I do. I found fixing oil leaks to be never ending so now I don't bother. I've also got a side light that I've given more attention to than I ever gave my kids, it still keeps packing up though.

Col

Series 2a Mark said:

Cheers for that info, il check it out and can now properly start fault finding and start restoring. You were definitely right about the timing! I couldn't believe how far out the distributer was. It looked like it hadn't been touched in years.

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If you had to turn the distributor more than 90 degrees it was probably the plug leads had been put on one socket out rather than someone turning the dizzy.