S884s Defender 90 Full Galvanised Rebuild

They're the ones yes, just not sure what mounts to the hole in the front of them?

They bolt to the tub. Here's mine upside down. One of the holes those brackets bolt to is close to the centre of this pic, with the dinitrol dribble running out of it. The other is on the far left of the pic.

Al2O3 said:

They bolt to the tub. Here's mine upside down. One of the holes those brackets bolt to is close to the centre of this pic, with the dinitrol dribble running out of it. The other is on the far left of the pic.

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Aha that makes sense, thank you very much!

So before I could drop a load of parts off for galvanising on sunday, we had the trouble of tackling all the seized bolts in the swivel housing, a task that proved more difficult than ever

Started with the calliper mounting bolts, drilled them to 5mm, tapped them out to 6mm then tried to tighten up a nut and bolt to use to undo the seized bolt but they just sheered, the holes were then drilled out bigger and an easy out used to remove the bolts





Finally go them out after a lot more work than expected



Anyone know why LandRover made the swivel housing fill plugs this shape? they're a swine to remove



expected to just drill it then use an easy out, but no, that would be way to easy..



After a lot of attempts to remove it ended up having to drill it big enough to fit a hacksaw blade so it could be cut out, what a game!



finally got it out though



However Sunday wasn't all bad, in the evening we went to drop a load of bits off for galvanising which we should get back later this week, and also got the chance to meet fellow LandyZone member 'XRIZLAX' who was a really nice guy and has made an amazing job of his own land rover defender 90!

S884 said:

Anyone know why LandRover made the swivel housing fill plugs this shape? they're a swine to remove

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Yours are just badly corroded. They should have a half inch square end on them. (or there abouts)

So yesterday saw a trip to pick up a load of galvanised parts and also a few new parts from paddocks

Had the A-Frame arms galvanised



The A-Frame brackets galvanised



The bulkhead brackets galvanised



The Steering drop arm galvanised



The Trailing arms and Radius arms galvanised



The sill rails galvanised



The swivel housing galvanised



And both axle casings galvanised



There were also a few other bits that I never got chance to get pictures of, things like our heavy duty steering arms, the towing eyes and spring seats...

There is still loads more to galvanise like the bulkhead, the battery tray, the engine sump and loads of other little brackets that we'll find along the way

Got a few new parts from paddocks too, mainly small pieces like engine hoses, window seals and spring retainers, but also got a new clutch with heavy duty clutch fork and a full set of new drilled and grooved discs and new pads

And then today we got to fit some of our freshly galvanised parts

Fitted the front shock turrets first



Then the rear shock mounts were fitted



Bushes were then fitted to anything that was there and ready



The A-Frame ball joint was then pressed in using plenty of copper grease



The A-Frame parts were then assembled ready to mount to the chassis



The rest of the day was spent cleaning the diff out and getting ready to assemble the rear axle which may well be done one night in the week

As mentioned earlier on in the thread the standard rear shock mounts would be galvanised but not used, and as promised this has been done so are ready if anyone wants to buy them, just send me a message

(The hole with galv in has now been drilled out so they're ready to bolt straight on)

That's alot of galv! This truck will never rot!

Well done, brilliant job

So decided to carry on with rebuilding the defender rear axle, however after putting the new diff flange seal in the diff refuses to spin as soon as any torque is put on the bolt that holds it down

We therefore put the old one back on to check but that also does it, so basically I was wondering if any of you could help and let me know what's happening here?

Mine did the same mate when I fitted mine, I torqued it up to the correct setting and couldn't move it, I had to use a pry bar to turn it. But I just assumed that it was normal

No. It certainly isn't normal. No way should you need a pry bar to turn it!

:nothingtoadd:

MayorQuimby said:

No. It certainly isn't normal. No way should you need a pry bar to turn it!

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It has loosened off a bit and it does move by hand now but it's still tight, it does however seem to turn ok when I roll the chassis

Is the drive flange (or rather, the mudshield on the drive flange) fouling the seal when the bolt is fully done up? That can make 'em very stiff to turn by hand. In which case, can the seal be tapped a little further into its socket? You don't want too much friction between the mudshield and the seal or it'll wear the seal away.

That sounds about right

So it turns out the seal for the flange just needed tapping in a bit further, thought we'd messed something right up when it didn't move, thanks for giving advice with this!

i'd still paint the galv btw, if you get some thin bits it can corrode with grit in winter

trax said:

i'd still paint the galv btw, if you get some thin bits it can corrode with grit in winter

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Yes, I would too. Road salt in winter turns it horrible crusty brown!

trax said:

i'd still paint the galv btw, if you get some thin bits it can corrode with grit in winter

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Turboman said:

Yes, I would too. Road salt in winter turns it horrible crusty brown!

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FFS

Why don't they tell you that when you're buying one?

Too late to paint mine now.