S3 locks

So after doing a bit of research regarding locks on a s3, (non anti burst factory fitted) I was thinking to upgrading to the anti burst type, has any one had any issues changing the handles over and has any one got some spare anti burst lock and handles for the the front os and ns before I start forking out the money for brand new ones? And any information would be appreciated if you could throw some my way

Thanks

I've fitted them mine, partly because I thought it would be a good way of replacing my worn lock barrels at the same time. Bought them from sp4x4 who do them as a kit including a hole cutter for cutting a new hole for the position of the new barrel. No real problems fitting them, spent a fair bit of time setting them up so they were adjusted correctly.
The only disappointing bit was that the lock barrels still could be opened with any type of key that fitted in lock and jiggled if you know what I mean.
To fix the problem I made the lock barrels fixed and adapted the locks to work off actuators with a central locking kit, this seems to work well and I'm in the process of fitting an alarm that will be switched from the central locking mechanism and microswitches from the door tops in an effort to add some more security.

When you say to work off actuators what do you mean? How did you fix the barrels?
I've seen the kit but I begrudge paying £70 plus vat? But then looking on eBay it's coming up with the same price! I guess I'm going to have to dig deep in the pockets and fork out!

I personally wouldn't bother. I doubt they would make any difference to a thief, amateur or determined pro. Buy a disc lock or put the money towards a tracker. I suppose in connection with other measures anti burst locks may add an extra 'something' but I'm really not convinced.

I've got a pedal lock and disk lock already just thinking I don't want to be going round a corner and the little lad falling out

Locks were modified so the central locking actuators move the locking tab on the inside of the door.
Lock barrels were drilled and tapped and fixed with bolt and locknut, soon to be replaced with grubscrewView attachment 163412 View attachment 163413 View attachment 163414 . There was a spare actuator in the kit that I used to provide a locking bonnet.
The aim was to improve the security from someone using similar key to open doors, as locks now only work from the central locking mechanism unless the bolt in the lock barrel is removed. I'm in the process of fitting an alarm that will be triggered by microswitches fitted at the top of the window frames which will set off airhorns and flashing lights..

I put all the actuator gubbins behind the door frame, down the side of the seat. It throws a bolt into the edge of the door via a bracket.
It won’t stop them but will slow them down having to cut the door off to get in.

Barley wine that's an impressive way to secure your doors a little more than the standard locks, how much was the central locking system if you don't mind me asking?

Round about this page mine started.

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/confessions-of-a-skin-flint.291552/page-8#post-3820012

Central locking kit was bought off eBay. I think it was about £25 but having had a quick look you can now seem to get them cheaper and some even come with a built in alarm which I may look at upgrading to as they all seem to use the same type of actuators. I was a bit dubious of how well they would work quality wise, but they seem to be holding up ok and it seems to be the only way of locking that will slow down entry.
I'm quite sure if they are determined to get in they will, just trying to create as much noise aba slow them down as much as possible. Thinking of adding some sort of smoke generating system in the future as well.

Bobsticle that is some engineering intuinity right there, and barley wine cheers for this! But like I said I've already got a pedal lock, disklok and also the handbrake mechanism thing with the padlock so hopefully will take a while to get into her and get her started!