RIGHT THAT'S FECKING IT!!!!
IM ON STRIKE!
Yep orf ta the pub. Err was that not what caused it.
rust.
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Yep orf ta the pub. Err was that not what caused it.
falcoron
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Have still been looking for a solution to the rust problem and in particular looked at oils, since I think penetration is the answer rather than a substance which simply lays on the rusty surface.
Most seemed to prove unsuitable, however I looked at parafin oil, "not parafin" which is fairly cheap and easy to obtain, it repels water and has been used for many applications such as rust, it also penetrates.
During this search I came across a company called metropolitan rust proofing who have developed a product based on parafin oil.
I think that it might be worth a try either spraying the chassis with parafin oil which will penetrate the rust and then spraying with waxoyle, or mixing the waxoyle with parafin and spraying. Probably find that this company has used this system since you appear to need a wax substrate to bind it in.
Looked at spraying oils also and there seems to be a risk of chemical phnemonea, or how ever it is spelt, if you inhale the mist, worse with old engine oils, so a good mask would be required probably one for paint spraying. In terms of getting it on your skin it's fairly harmless, in actual fact my son who has a skin problem used it at one time.
I'm going to get some at the weekend and test it to see how well it works on my disco on it's own.
Most seemed to prove unsuitable, however I looked at parafin oil, "not parafin" which is fairly cheap and easy to obtain, it repels water and has been used for many applications such as rust, it also penetrates.
During this search I came across a company called metropolitan rust proofing who have developed a product based on parafin oil.
I think that it might be worth a try either spraying the chassis with parafin oil which will penetrate the rust and then spraying with waxoyle, or mixing the waxoyle with parafin and spraying. Probably find that this company has used this system since you appear to need a wax substrate to bind it in.
Looked at spraying oils also and there seems to be a risk of chemical phnemonea, or how ever it is spelt, if you inhale the mist, worse with old engine oils, so a good mask would be required probably one for paint spraying. In terms of getting it on your skin it's fairly harmless, in actual fact my son who has a skin problem used it at one time.
I'm going to get some at the weekend and test it to see how well it works on my disco on it's own.
falcoron
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The trouble with any type of oil is it washes off over time and you would need to re-apply at regular intervals. It would do no harm as a rust prevention inside the chassis channels if you can get it in. but if you have any sort of corrosion you must at all times remove it as best you can then and only then start the protection process. You will find that parrafin oil is used in a lot of rust retadation products and always require a wax of some sort to adhere to the substrate. hench names like WAX-OYL But no harm in trying. The end of the day the same thing will be evident, rust can only be slowed down, not eliminated without constant care and monitoring. Life's too dam short for that!
That's what I was thinking, I think that waxoyl has a place, but because it fails completly in penetration then it basically fails to provide a service, the rust remains in scabs or pits and however much work you put into it you never get it all off, hours of wire brushing and grinding etc and you never get into the awkward bits do you.
These areas are then covered by a substance, wax or paint, neither of which penetrates and the process continues under these applications until it burst through again. I think the moisture is still held within the metal, even when the chassis looks dry in the best days of our summers, and short of heating it with a blow torch it aint goin to move. Perhaps the oil would displace it and form a barrier.
If parrafin oil was sprayed first, because it penetrates it would hopefully halt the rust, and to prevent it being washed off then coat with waxoyl, which I would imagine is probably vasaline with a dye through it.
I bought some today but it's bastid rainin so it is.
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two things....
1) to allow Ferous Oxide to form - you need Oxygen - any sealant will stop that until the sealant surface is compromised.
2) Parafin is Hydroscopic and will atract and hold moisture.
just wash any steel item in parafin and leave it outside for a week. Try the same in oil and see the result.
1) to allow Ferous Oxide to form - you need Oxygen - any sealant will stop that until the sealant surface is compromised.
2) Parafin is Hydroscopic and will atract and hold moisture.
just wash any steel item in parafin and leave it outside for a week. Try the same in oil and see the result.
slob
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Pikey
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Old boy who lived near me in North Wales, used to "paint" his corrugated steel shed with old oil & diesel mixure. and it was in better condition than most of his neighbours painted sheds.
It dunt say paraffin oil is hydrascipoc, it says quite the opposite does it not, is this not whats in waxoyl, but if it is yer sayin mah theory is fooked and ah wasted 2quid on parafoon oil this mornin.
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"Paraffin absorbs water, while kero does not, another reason why it
is not favoured as a fuel. "
I think yu will find that Paraffin will not "adhere" to the surface material (steel) in the same way that oil will. It will wash off any protective oil or grease on the steel surface and then allow corrosion much more readily.
I would suggest you try on a couple of pieces of scrap steel, and allow to weather, with oil as a control on another piece, before you soak your chassis in the stuff. It might be difficult to remove it afterwards!
is not favoured as a fuel. "
I think yu will find that Paraffin will not "adhere" to the surface material (steel) in the same way that oil will. It will wash off any protective oil or grease on the steel surface and then allow corrosion much more readily.
I would suggest you try on a couple of pieces of scrap steel, and allow to weather, with oil as a control on another piece, before you soak your chassis in the stuff. It might be difficult to remove it afterwards
!Yep I keep hearing this but, it's total the opposite when I searched and it washes off with big rainbow stains on yer drive everywhere, and I dunt think yer can put anything on top of it, and it's a major health hazard, and it rotts ta fook all the rubber and plastic and so on.
And I cant find anybody who has used it fur years on a vehicul, no fooker on here has admitted yet.
But guys have admitted using it on inner sills on vehicles and it fooked them, and there is information there which says it is corrosive if yer google it.
"Paraffin absorbs water, while kero does not, another reason why it
is not favoured as a fuel. "
I think yu will find that Paraffin will not "adhere" to the surface material (steel) in the same way that oil will. It will wash off any protective oil or grease on the steel surface and then allow corrosion much more readily.
I would suggest you try on a couple of pieces of scrap steel, and allow to weather, with oil as a control on another piece, before you soak your chassis in the stuff. It might be difficult to remove it afterwards
Are we not getting miss led here, there is parrafin, and there is parrafin oil, the later which is used to protect bare metal, and used as a skin moisturizer.
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possibly - but i would make absolutely sure of any stuff before i pumped my chassis full of it!
As I said - do some comparative tests on scrap steel and leave them outdoors for a period to compare.
!As I said - do some comparative tests on scrap steel and leave them outdoors for a period to compare.
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possibly - but i would make absolutely sure of any stuff before i pumped my chassis full of it
As I said - do some comparative tests on scrap steel and leave them outdoors for a period to compare.
You know what, I dunt know if it will work, to boldly go as kirk says.
I have some scrap outside wif 4 wheels, I think for it to be a realistic trial in needs to go on a vehicle, just a little bit to see if it washes off and so on.
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i think the sighence labs just drill a hole in a corner of small plates and hang from trees or similar stuff.
At least thats wot we did.
At least thats wot we did.
Tried these rust convertors on my merc, then hammerite last year, really did a good job of buffing it down but it came back worse this year, it turns it black ok but again it's a shell over festering rust underneath.
They can have my landie to hang up if they want, un get there fooking vernieer gauges out, un clip boards.
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