Rust!

bushmechanic · May 29, 2013

Hey All,

Recent owner of a defender 90 td5, posted earlier about fuel starvation ended up being a knackered fuel pump but i'm sure my mechanic installed the wrong one, having read other threads it could be 110 pump as the tanks empty when the gauge shows a 1/4 left!! Found out today when i ran out of fuel

Anyways my rear cross member is showing pretty bad signs of corrosion,however no holes that i can see. I was wondering if there are any good products out there that i can inject into the cross member with out having to remove the rust from within the void? Could waxoyl seal and prevent further rusting? It claims on the can to kill existing rust?!?

Hammerite HAM6710013 400ml Waxoyl Clear Aerosol: Amazon.co.uk: Car & Motorbike

Thanks

BM

mikescuba · May 29, 2013

Depends how bad the rust is and how long you intend keeping it. If the rust is very bad I would consider biting the bullet and fitting a new cross member. They are not that expensive to have done. Plenty of threads on here.

pressbrake · May 29, 2013

old engine oil

bushmechanic · May 29, 2013

mikescuba said:
Depends how bad the rust is and how long you intend keeping it. If the rust is very bad I would consider biting the bullet and fitting a new cross member. They are not that expensive to have done. Plenty of threads on here.

I don't have the tools or the means to do it my self but if i lived on the mainland id go to these guys http://www.blacksheepoffroad.co.uk/ I live in Jersey CI and I don't know of anyone who can do it.

waldershelf · May 29, 2013

Defender chassis rust, put up with it, it's a fact of life. The best you can do is put off the problem as long as you can. Clean as much of the rust off as possible and cover it in Waxoyl, Dinitrol, old engine oil or what ever, none of them are a 100% solution and sooner or later welding will be required. It's part of the Defender ownership deal.

bushmechanic · May 30, 2013

waldershelf said:
Defender chassis rust, put up with it, it's a fact of life. The best you can do is put off the problem as long as you can. Clean as much of the rust off as possible and cover it in Waxoyl, Dinitrol, old engine oil or what ever, none of them are a 100% solution and sooner or later welding will be required. It's part of the Defender ownership deal.

Thnaks waldershelf...I think as it stands i will try my best to delay the process

gse1986 · May 30, 2013

bushmechanic said:
Thnaks waldershelf...I think as it stands i will try my best to delay the process

Put a bit of pressure on the rust. If it doesnt feel secure, chances are your next MOT will spot it when he hits it with a hammer.

Decide if it's easier to do now, or with a 10 day deadline once it fails MOT

discomania · May 30, 2013

bushmechanic said:
Hey All,

Recent owner of a defender 90 td5, posted earlier about fuel starvation ended up being a knackered fuel pump but i'm sure my mechanic installed the wrong one, having read other threads it could be 110 pump as the tanks empty when the gauge shows a 1/4 left!! Found out today when i ran out of fuel

Quite likely he didn't bother to take the time to calibrate the float. You're meant to sort of work out what it's reading before you change it, then when you fit the new one get it to show about the same.

chezvegas · May 31, 2013

bushmechanic said:
Hey All,

Recent owner of a defender 90 td5, posted earlier about fuel starvation ended up being a knackered fuel pump but i'm sure my mechanic installed the wrong one, having read other threads it could be 110 pump as the tanks empty when the gauge shows a 1/4 left!! Found out today when i ran out of fuel

Anyways my rear cross member is showing pretty bad signs of corrosion,however no holes that i can see. I was wondering if there are any good products out there that i can inject into the cross member with out having to remove the rust from within the void? Could waxoyl seal and prevent further rusting? It claims on the can to kill existing rust?!?

Hammerite HAM6710013 400ml Waxoyl Clear Aerosol: Amazon.co.uk: Car & Motorbike

Thanks

BM

It's part and parcel of owning a defender. I use a flap wheel on an angle grinder to take the rust off then black hamerite over the top. It should last a few years but its just one of those things!. Also use the paint on hammerite. I find it gives a better coat than the aerosol ones.

Hippo · May 31, 2013

psulli16 · Jun 1, 2013

I'm in the process of applying POR15 on mine.

Brown · Jun 1, 2013

bushmechanic said:
Hey All,

Recent owner of a defender 90 td5, posted earlier about fuel starvation ended up being a knackered fuel pump but i'm sure my mechanic installed the wrong one, having read other threads it could be 110 pump as the tanks empty when the gauge shows a 1/4 left!! Found out today when i ran out of fuel

Anyways my rear cross member is showing pretty bad signs of corrosion,however no holes that i can see. I was wondering if there are any good products out there that i can inject into the cross member with out having to remove the rust from within the void? Could waxoyl seal and prevent further rusting? It claims on the can to kill existing rust?!?

Hammerite HAM6710013 400ml Waxoyl Clear Aerosol: Amazon.co.uk: Car & Motorbike

Thanks

BM

The amount of rustproofing compound you're likely to need on a Land Rover, it will turn out a bit dear if you buy it in little spraycans. Try and get something a bit bigger - you'll need it. Yes, those combined fuel pump and fuel gauge sender thingies in TD5s all have personalities of their own. I changed mine just after Christmas, and now it looks like I have about £10 worth more fuel in. You just get used to the new one after a while. Or you can simply take it out and bend the bit of wire with the float on.

mikescuba · Jun 2, 2013

bushmechanic said:
I don't have the tools or the means to do it my self but if i lived on the mainland id go to these guys http://www.blacksheepoffroad.co.uk/ I live in Jersey CI and I don't know of anyone who can do it.

Well don't bring it this way as there isn't anyone I would trust here in France to do it. I took mine to MIB Components, they did a great job. Pressbrake also seem well recommended.

bushmechanic · Jul 7, 2013

discomania said:
Quite likely he didn't bother to take the time to calibrate the float. You're meant to sort of work out what it's reading before you change it, then when you fit the new one get it to show about the same.

Thanks I will mention this to him.

bushmechanic · Jul 7, 2013

Brown said:
The amount of rustproofing compound you're likely to need on a Land Rover, it will turn out a bit dear if you buy it in little spraycans. Try and get something a bit bigger - you'll need it. Yes, those combined fuel pump and fuel gauge sender thingies in TD5s all have personalities of their own. I changed mine just after Christmas, and now it looks like I have about £10 worth more fuel in. You just get used to the new one after a while. Or you can simply take it out and bend the bit of wire with the float on.

I ended up getting a couple of rust inhibitors + waxes from bilthamber.. From what of read their products are the best out there

Rust!

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