You will need:
A copy of RAVE (see How To section)
Plusgas (lots of it)
Jack and axle stands
32mm 6 point socket
¾ breaker bar and scaffold bar / friendly independent garage
12mm 6 point socket
¾ 12 point socket
Junior hacksaw / wire-clippers (or both)
Loads of clean old rags.
CV boot kit with grease and clips.
A cable-tie / jubilee clip
Threadlock as specified in RAVE (Loctite grade 648)
A little bit of differential oil as specified in RAVE
Silicone grease for ABS sensor
Cold chisel / centre punch
Some sort of gas-torch to help free stubborn nuts.
A bench with a vice
Oil seal for half-shaft
Replacement brake carrier bolts and brake disk screw kit.
Brake discs, pads
REMOVING THE HUB
In the week leading up to the job spray all nuts and the hub with Plusgas each night. BE REALLY CAREFUL NONE GETS ON THE BRAKE DISK OR PADS! If they get contaminated you will crash!
You need RAVE page 755 of the Workshop Manual (2000) under FRONT SUSPENSION  REPAIR  DRIVESHAFT AND HUB ASSEMBLY.
The first job is to loosen the 32m 6 point hub-nut.
Remove the centre-cap from the wheel using screwdriver. Then loosen the hub-nut. This is not as easy as it sounds. It may have a stake through it in which case move the stake out of the way. It may (like mine) have the rim of the nut bashed into the indentation where the stake would live. I used a centre-punch to straighten mine out but apparently this isnt necessary.
View attachment 69740
To loosen the nut youll need at least a ¾ breaker bar with a scaffold-bar or similar on the end. Personally, Id save your energy. Take it straight to your local friendly independent garage with an airline and get him to loosen the nut with his airgun. Takes a minute and well worth buying him a drink or two for the hassle saved. When you get back make sure the nut is loose then nip back up a little. I put the car on extended ride height so I had plenty of room to work.
Handbrake on, chock all other wheels and jack up and place on stands, all the usual precautions for when working on a vehicle in the air.
Remove the road wheel.
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Next, time to get all the brake paraphernalia off the hub and out of the way. You need RAVE page 824 of the Workshop Manual (2000) under BRAKES ABS  REPAIR  BRAKE DISC AND SHIELD FRONT.
Undo the two 12mm bolts that hold the brake-caliper on and tie the brake-caliper up out of the way so that no tension is on the flexible brake line. Remove the brake pads and put somewhere safe where the contact surface will not be damaged or get dirt on it.
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Undo the 2 bolts holding the brake carrier in place. These are ¾ 12 point and probably rusted in place. Mine needed a bit of help from a gas torch the first time I removed them. Obviously if youre using heat then make sure that no sensor wires, brake lines or anything else with rubber / plastic gets near it. Remove the brake carrier.
Remove the screw holding the brake disc in place. This was absolutely solid on mine and a size bigger than any screwdriver I had. It was, in fact, a total sod. In the end I used a centre-punch and a hammer and managed to get it moving by tapping it round. After that it unscrewed with the biggest Philips I had.
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Now remove the three 8mm 6 point bolts holding the brake disk shield on. These will be really rusty and polish off rather easily. Rub all rust off with a wire-brush and douse with Plusgas and let it soak for a while. Make sure the socket is hammered on all the way before easing them out to avoid rounding the bolt-heads off.
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Next remove the ABS sensor and then the sieve-like copper sleeve it sits in. These should just pull out. Unclip the wire to the ABS sensor from its mooring points and place it well out of the way so you have plenty of room to swing a hammer around.
You will now see where the hub sits inside the swivelhub. Clean all rust off the join with a wire-brush, score round with a flat-screwdriver and then rub again with a wire-brush. Spray lots of Plusgas all around the join. Also spray the 15mm 6 point bolts (4 of them) that hold the hub in place. You need to give this time to soak in so go and have a cuppa and a snack.
View attachment 69745
View attachment 69746
In order to get the 15mm hub bolts loose I had to use a second ring-spanner on the first ring-spanner in order to get enough leverage to shift it. They were really solid unsurprising as I later discovered they had Threadlock on.
Now, in Wammers words, the hub removal:
Apply Plusgas to interface of bearing housing flange and swivel hub, allow to soak. Undo four bolts holding hub bearing housing to swivel hub. Back off about 4 mm. Tap bolt heads in turn to free bearing housing from swivel hub. Apply more Plusgas. Back off a further 4mm and repeat until bearing housing is free of swivel hub. Clean mating surfaces and apply Copraslip to them and bolt threads on reassembly. Simples.
View attachment 69747
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Personally I also used a lump hammer to gently tap the rim of the hub from whatever angle I could get in from to try and break the rust seal and persuade it on its way. You must keep it even by banging in a figure-of-eight pattern as you would for head bolts, trying to keep it as straight as possible. The odd knock from side-to-side probably wont hurt. Anything to break the seal to the swivelhub. For ages it seems like youre getting nowhere but persevere. Keep working at the join with a wire-brush, Plusgas and hammer. Eventually a little crack appears. Shove more Plusgas in, wait a bit and then try again. Suddenly itll come out easily. Do not remove it at this stage! Leave it on the edge and then clean out all the crap from around the oil-seal and anywhere near where you are working. When all is clean withdraw the whole hub assembly and half-shaft as one unit. I wrapped a rag (well, old sock) over the splines at each end to stop dirt getting in and protect the splines. Clean up the oil seal (be gentle) and stuff the hole to stop any dirt getting in (another sock!).
TO BE CONTINUED ...
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A beginners guide to replacing the CV boot on a Range Rover P38.