rust proofing

I am thinking of protecting my defender undeneath from rust what is the best stuff to use ?

plastic

Loads of ideas in here already but for my two penneth worth this is what I am doing:
knock off old rust, scrape away any old waxoyl, wire brush and degrease, prime with isopon grey antirust paint (brushed on), coat if 'hammerite underseal with waxoyl', then a coat if spayed waxoyl inside and out of chassis. Also primed and painted axles with the hammerite underbody too to keep rust away and protect from stone chips.

Any holes found in chassis should be knocked back to clean metal and patch welded over too, filler will only delay the agony.
It's taking me ages but hopefully the £200 on bits and also
my time will prevent a new galv chassis being needed for a few years at a cost of £1045+vat!

Let us know what you decide as people are always keen to see what works for everyone else. Cheers

Depleted uranium.

I used this stuff the other weekend - supposed to be very good
Rust proofing, prevention products for automotive: Marine:Industrial:Waxoyl
just pick a warm dry weekend, geat a disposable overall and safety glasses( goggles just steam up) and get dirty!
Jonnie

Use Tectyl 506. Came across it on ships excellent stuff.
Bought mine from Thomas Proctor Ltd on The Team Valley, Gateshead, they can supply in Aerosol or in Tin for paint on.

Loads of threads on this and loads of opinions.

Prep is key - remove all loose rust (wire brush/drill attachments)

Degrease

Dry (Compressed air works well)

Weld any holes you've created

I like POR15 or KBS Rustseal 3 part systems for the chassis exterior (used KBS on mine this year), but plenty of the guys just spray products (waxoyl, shutz, ankor wax, dinitrol etc.)

Don't forget to spray inside the bulkhead and chassis sections

I persoanlly prefer ankor wax - similar to waxoyl but easier to spray (well worth spending £15 on a shutz gun with a long probe attachment rather than using hand trigger sprays)

Ankor wax (made by Morris Lubricants - they have a website) is about the same price as waxoyl, but has the advantage of not needing stuff to be bone dry before being applied - i couldn't work out how to test that the insides of the box section were dry

It's a messy job - took me about 6 hours and c£150 for materials

Clean,steam cleaner
Drive around as usual for a couple of days to dry it out
Mix old engine oil with bitumen paint,50/50 and spray it on.
Cheap and easy.

storm99 said:

Depleted uranium.

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Thats the first good idea you have had for years.

spencer1885 said:

Clean,steam cleaner
Drive around as usual for a couple of days to dry it out
Mix old engine oil with bitumen paint,50/50 and spray it on.
Cheap and easy.

Click to expand...

Don't use used engine oil it is dangerously carcinogenic. When you do your oil change don't get it on your hands if at all possible and take it to your local dumpit site. Believe me, you really, really don't want to be spraying used engine oil.

joe27979 said:

Loads of ideas in here already but for my two penneth worth this is what I am doing:
knock off old rust, scrape away any old waxoyl, wire brush and degrease, prime with isopon grey antirust paint (brushed on), coat if 'hammerite underseal with waxoyl', then a coat if spayed waxoyl inside and out of chassis. Also primed and painted axles with the hammerite underbody too to keep rust away and protect from stone chips.

Any holes found in chassis should be knocked back to clean metal and patch welded over too, filler will only delay the agony.
It's taking me ages but hopefully the £200 on bits and also
my time will prevent a new galv chassis being needed for a few years at a cost of £1045+vat!

Let us know what you decide as people are always keen to see what works for everyone else. Cheers

Click to expand...

I am in the process of going through the same exercise on my 90, I have heard good things about Bonda primer so I am trying that rather than the isopon anti rust primer.

Ankor wax is very good better than waxoyl.
Im now red oxiding then gloss blacking my chassis going to leave it a week or two then ankor wax it inside and out.
Painting chassis as best you can is a really **** job.


Lynall

waldershelf said:

Don't use used engine oil it is dangerously carcinogenic. When you do your oil change don't get it on your hands if at all possible and take it to your local dumpit site. Believe me, you really, really don't want to be spraying used engine oil.

Click to expand...

That's a bit over the top
Use a pair of gloves :doh:
Any kind of hard setting paint under your Land Rover with out a coating of oily protection is a waste of time,old engine is free and a 5 litre tin of bitumen paint is about £12.

spencer1885 said:

That's a bit over the top
Use a pair of gloves :doh:
Any kind of hard setting paint under your Land Rover with out a coating of oily protection is a waste of time,old engine is free and a 5 litre tin of bitumen paint is about £12.

Click to expand...

A pair of gloves is not going to help if you spray the stuff. I agree that hard setting paint is not going to provide long term protection to your chassis. Waxoyl and the like is not that expensive for a once a year application and is a hell of a lot safer then used engine oil.

Sorry to hi-jack. I have been working on my chassi to prepare it for a coat of Waxoyl or similar. It has 27 years of old waxoyl and assorted crap on it which I have been attacking with a wire brush attachment on my grinder but it is very hard work and slow going getting down to bare metal. Do I really have to get to metal or can I just take off the top layer?

Assuming I can leave some of the old protection on should I just spray waxoyl or should I coat first with a paint?

Finally - I have an air compressor, can someone do a linky to a good attachment to use to spay Ankor Wax?

This is the gun I got the best results with

Schutz Spray Gun 626 Stonechip Shutz Waxoyl Wax Oil | eBay UK

Personally I'd just remove anything loose rather than trying to get back to bare metal. I wouldn't try and paint first - you'd need to thoroughly degrease first, and to be honest even then the paint wouldn't adhere well to old waxoyl etc.

Great - so i dont need to degrease if i am doing ankor wax ontop of old waxoyl.

The spray gun - does it come with a bottle or what do you use to hold the ankor wax?

Thanks

I persoanlly can't see the point/need of degreasing

No, the spray gun does not come with a can - it fits a standard shutz can.

If oyu don't have one, just buy one from Halfords or ebay with say clear waxoyl in it, warm in a saucepan of water, tip the waxoyl away and then just use white spirit swirled around inside to clean up.

This is what you're looking for

WAXOYL RUST PROOFING RUST KILLER FOR CARS CLEAR 1LTR | eBay UK

but I only paid about £4 for one.

Halfords I thought usually had the 1 litre size, but only seeing the 2.5 litre ones on their website.

I know its an old thread, but the title says it all.....

Just been looking at the Rustbuster catalogue - and they mention "fluid film" as a corrosion preventing penetrant for steel to aluminium interfaces - anyone given it a try?

I have tried a few of their products and they seem very good.