Rust + Mot = ?

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discomark10

discomark10

Well-Known Member
Posts
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Location
Milton Keynes
Hey, so i have a 91 disco v8 and it needs an mot, my brother-in-law has a range rover and he had some problems with rust for his last mot and he was told that the body rust must be 300mm or more from a body/chassis mount and not extensive.
And this is where i need some advice...
and the sad thing is this is like 95% of all the rust on it :mad:
 

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not good news im afraid...

all those pictures are MOT failures.... you are going to need new sills...

have you checked your rear cross member? and inner wings?
 
inner wings? like at the front in the engine bay?

Rear cross member as in where the the tow bar attaches to??

and is it steel? because i can weld allright..
 
You definitely need 2x new sills. Lucily, they're a simple rectangular shape, so not too complicated to patch up or replace, although the bits above are fiddly etc.
 
if you can weld... you are sorted.

the rear cross member is behind the rear bumper, check the chassi support boxes on the rear cross member, they usually rust

yes the inner wings in the engine bay.
if there's rust on the one on the drivers side, its an MOT failure as its close to the brake servo
 
this is the rest of the rust on it.
The last pic.... is it the rear member??
 

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yep the last pic is the rear cross member.... looks alright

mine wasnt.. look:

23574_10150124284120613_727855612_11397812_7129615_n.jpg


the first pic, your inner wing, repair that, its a MOT failure.
 
Take fooking ages to rust through again though :D, I used 12mmx60mmx4mm box for my sills, don't know what thickness i used for the floor and inner wings but it was very simular to the original material, and i think 2mm to make new body mounts (the bit thats welded to th sill), hope that helps, sorry for stupid answer i will go and sit on naughty step
 
discomark10 said:
Oh, 1 more question... what thickness steel do i need to repair it?
Click to expand...

I know you said you can weld, but have you done car bodywork repairs to MoT standard, or another type of welding (arc welding perhaps/??)

Welded repairs on a car body should always restore the original strength, therefore you should use metal of the same thickness as the repair area you're fixing. For sills and other areas within the crumple zone, there's no harm in using thicker metal, except that it adds more weight etc. If its part of the crumple zone, then technically it should be the same thickness and replicate the type of join (eg if it were spot welded, then a bunch of plug welds instead of the (stronger) overlap seam weld), so that the function of the crumple zone is the same in an accident scenario. (But LRs have a chassis, so they don't really have a crumple zone as such).
 
yea i can weld prety good with a mig, my rod weling is ok but not as good.

Thanks for the links, now i have some idea of what to expect! lol think its out with a pointy staby device and a grinder tomorow :/
 
Ive just had a quick prod around my passenger sill, i think it will need replacing, I mesured up what size box i need and it was like 55mm x 95.. does that sound rite?? one of the guides used 60mm x 100mm - but i dont know if that will fit?!
or would it if i removed the compleate remains of the old sill
 
I measured mine to be 120mm x 60 thats 120 from the floor down to the bottom edge of the inner part of the sill and 60mm wide, you wont get 95 x 55 of the shelf you will have to have it made. Where are you????
 
check out YRM metal solutions online

they use 1.2mm Zintec for theit parts

i bought outer sill panels off them, thry were great, did a proper job

took me about a week of evenings to cut it all out and start again, but mine was worse than yours. i completely removed the outers, 90% of the inner sill was ok, but a few of the mounts needed reinforcing back onto the inner sill.

i used 2mm sheel for the NSR body mount, the mount itself was spot on but the whole inner sill and some of the floor had gone for about 6 inches into it from the back edge, so the 2mm sorted out the strength for the body to mount thing.

then the outers were fitted, and numerous small bots made up to box the ends off and reattach the pillars etc.

i also did the front inner wings, which had basically gone for about 4-5 inches in from the vertical section. the header tank etc was hanging on rust, the battery was 60% visible from the outside, etc etc. YRM do great panels for here too, but i took advantage of it all being small flat bits, so i cut and folded all my own panels up, again it was easy to make a nice job.

so it's all doable mate.

the rear crossmember that youre looking for is the body crossmember, not the chassis crossmember. this is visible sort of inside the rear bumper, and it is also directly below the tailgate. yes, mine's absolutely ****ed, but i patched it up to get it MOTd cos i cant be bothered to sort it yet, it's still acceptable structurally (obviously)

sorry for the essay, i hope it helps :)
 
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