Disco 2 MOT fail, front body mount

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
I just bought an air powered one, its cheaper.... also just added a pro needle gun, well worth the 70 quid I paid.

I agree on the welding, just cut, plate, weld and a coat of gloop... That will keep the MOT guy happy for 12 months. I catastrophised on finding a huge amount of rot on mine two years ago.....cut out, primed, plated up, then seam sealed and coated with chassis paint... MOT guy was fine....
 
I just bought an air powered one, its cheaper.... also just added a pro needle gun, well worth the 70 quid I paid.

I agree on the welding, just cut, plate, weld and a coat of gloop... That will keep the MOT guy happy for 12 months. I catastrophised on finding a huge amount of rot on mine two years ago.....cut out, primed, plated up, then seam sealed and coated with chassis paint... MOT guy was fine....
I have to say air is better if you want to do some serious material removal, downside is lots of diy type compressors run at 100/110psi, and the air die grinders and needle guns need the full monty 150psi to work at their best.
I rarely use my air ones now, apart from the extended one which is a great tool.
 
HI, hire a plasma cutter, they now come with an internal compressor, they are not to expensive to buy, it will allow you to cut the rot out then you can clean it up as normal with a grinder before welding on a replacement
 
I just bought an air powered one, its cheaper.... also just added a pro needle gun, well worth the 70 quid I paid.

I agree on the welding, just cut, plate, weld and a coat of gloop... That will keep the MOT guy happy for 12 months. I catastrophised on finding a huge amount of rot on mine two years ago.....cut out, primed, plated up, then seam sealed and coated with chassis paint... MOT guy was fine....
Yup, but he only has 4cfm so an air powered one won't work wiv his set up, as mentioned afore!
 
That's rubbish and you would know that if you had any clue.
It's seriously corroded and once if possible the rust is cut out it will be an extensive repair.
It's a structural area and will definitely need to be correctly repaired otherwise body twisting under load will cause unknown stress on other areas that will allow corrosion to set in to those areas such as other body mounts opposite the corroded side.
Luckily I very much do have a clue as to what I am talking about with many years experience.
 
Chopped it out yet @PopPops ?
Apologies for the delay in replying, we went away for a couple of days and got back to find someone had dug through our phone cable. It's taken BT nearly 3 weeks to dig enough holes to fix it. The mobile signal is so bad here no chance of getting onto the forum.

No, I chickened out and got a mobile welder to weld a patch on. Retest next week, so fingers crossed. Sorry no photos.
 
Well, the truck went in for its retest today and passed:):):). Thank you all for all your help and advice.

However, that is only half the story. Half way back from the MOT the brakes failed.o_Oo_O The brake warning light came on, reservoir empty. I pedalled it home using the handbrake and a large distance in front. I've topped it up but as the road was wet (rain) and it's dark I can't tell if all the wet on the underside is brake fluid or water. I'll have to wait until sometime tomorrow to have a good look.

And if that wasn't enough, the alternator also seems to be playing up as my dashboard voltmeter was reading lower than usual.

One problem solved, 2 new. True Land Rover!!

Cheers.
 
Well, the truck went in for its retest today and passed:):):). Thank you all for all your help and advice.

However, that is only half the story. Half way back from the MOT the brakes failed.o_Oo_O The brake warning light came on, reservoir empty. I pedalled it home using the handbrake and a large distance in front. I've topped it up but as the road was wet (rain) and it's dark I can't tell if all the wet on the underside is brake fluid or water. I'll have to wait until sometime tomorrow to have a good look.

And if that wasn't enough, the alternator also seems to be playing up as my dashboard voltmeter was reading lower than usual.

One problem solved, 2 new. True Land Rover!!

Cheers.
Glad it passed but do wonder how, seeing as the brakes........ :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:
 
Glad it passed but do wonder how, seeing as the brakes........ :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:
Weird, the brakes were fine on the way to the MOT, so was the alternator! I’ve used the same garage for MOTs for the last 30 years or so (I used to work next to them), they are about 10 miles from me. A few minutes coming home the pedal felt “different”, then the fluid warning. All will become clear in the light of day in the dry!!
 
Sounds like you may have ruptured a flexi, popped Master cylinder seals or even one of the metal pipes. The brake pedal gets fairly high pressure during the MOT. If it lost that much fluid before, you can bet your bottom dollar that it will soon be lost again! I would suggest don't drive it until you have found the leak and fixed it permanently.
 
Sounds like you may have ruptured a flexi, popped Master cylinder seals or even one of the metal pipes. The brake pedal gets fairly high pressure during the MOT. If it lost that much fluid before, you can bet your bottom dollar that it will soon be lost again! I would suggest don't drive it until you have found the leak and fixed it permanently.
Agreed, it is safely stored in the drive!
 
I didn't think you could put 4x4's on rolling road brake testers, shouldn't it have been a road test with one of those things on the passenger floor? I stand to be corrected said the man in the orthopaedic shoes :).
I wasn't with it during the test this time, but in the past they have always road tested it with a thingy on the passenger floor.

Must just have been coincidence that a huge shove on the brake pedal caused it to fail a mile later.
 
Back
Top