Rust Bullet, KBS Rust Seal or Dinitrol - your opinions please!

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mick miller

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Hertfordshire
So, I already have some Rust Bullet, which I've used on the rear door and just started on the chassis with. However, before I begin the epic chassis paint in earnest I thought I would canvas some opinions from those that most likely have already done the same.

Rust Bullet sounded like the dogs danglies, but I have since read some less than glowing reviews. Also, the website from which I originally bought the two products from seems to have gone offline(?). That might not be too handy for getting the thing finished.

Then I read about KBS Rust Seal, which looks good but then it seems like you need 3 other products to clean and prep the metal first. Currently I'm just using the wire brush to remove any loose stuff and then a gob full of isopropyl on a rag to degrease the surface. I could do without having to purchase several expensive products before I start painting.

Then there's Dinitrol, which may be the best bet as its used by several manufacturers and I intended to either Dinitrol wax or 3M cavity wax in the chassis cavities and bulkhead after I'm done with the painting.

So, have any of you experience with these products? Do you have any longer term results to go off? Can I just say I want to avoid simply waxoiling the granny out of it because I'm not convinced from what I've read that it's the best way to go.

Your opinions are valued. Ta in advance.
 
Hi - Loads of threads on this and as many different opinions!

If it ever warms up again I'll be doing the same to my 90's Chassis - read loads of threads looking for that 'best recommendation' and to be honest didn't find it!

I'm going to try the 3 stage KBS system - not used before but reads well, and I like the idea of the hard/scratch proof surface rather than a wax taht skins over - don't know why I do, i just do! Like you whilst spraying well thinned Waxoyl in the box sections makes sense, I'm not convinced it's the best solution for the externally visible surfaces.

Whatever system you choose, the one common theme is it's very messy and preparation, preparation, preparation - could be a TV series in there somewhere:D
 
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Thanks Station House, I too have read the many threads and ended up quite confused, some folk recommend the rust bullet, others not

What I'm hoping for is someone who has long term experience of any one of the products I'm considering. Fingers crossed.

Lead Farmer - Vactan eh? Thanks for that, I'd never heard of it. Another one to add to the mix, nooooooooooo! Looks good though.

Prep is certainly the key, but I was hopeful wire brushing and the isopropyl would do the job?
 
Hadn't heard of Vactan either Mick - appears to be a better form of Kurust (I used to use Jenolite many years ago) but with a built in primer.

From a very quick bit of reading I can see its use if the chassis is rusty, but wouldn't use it on already primed sections, and would still want to overcoat it with Dinitrol or Waxoyl

I'll watch your thread with interest to see who recommends what as I haven't ordered the KBS system yet, so could be open to having my mind changed!

PS - thinking of starting by pressure washing my chassis using a degreaser solution - have only got a Karcher, but beleive it will draw up the degreaser solution as if it were car wash detergent. Of course, need to then let it dry out - can be a challenge here in Scotland!
 
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Thanks for that Mick - have saved the link.

Was thinking of trying meguiars super degreaser - be helpful to know if anyone has any experience of using this.

Currently buy my large quantities of cleanign solutions from www.theultimatefinish.co.uk - to date they've been quick and reliable

20 degrees plus required for Vactan eh - that rules out use in Scotland apart from one weekend in May - now if I only knew which weekend that was going to be:D
 
Can't give you an opinion on Dinitrol..... yet.
I've got a box of their products sat in the garage for use on my Series 2 chassis. They supply a rust converter and chassis wax for the inside, and a different wax for the outside. It cost me around £100 for the kit to treat a Land Rover - it comes in spray cans with an extension tube for getting inside the chassis. They even supply gloves and disposable boiler suit!
When the weather improves I will get cracking on the Series - first job is to degrease and jetwash it inside and out, and I didn't want to to do until it's a little warmer and drier or it'll never dry out afterwards.
 
The POR15 is what I had planned to use Leadfarmer until I started searching around and found KBS - allegedly the same (made by a bunch of folk that broke away from POR15) but slightly cheaper

Again, if you search enough you can find plenty of folk that swear by POR15, and about the same that don't

Confusing eh? Think that's why I got myself to a place of:

a) choose what you feel comfortable with

b) Prep really thoroughly

c) Accept you're gonna get dirty

d) Anything has to be better than a bare chassis!
 
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