Rough running/loss of power/Rattling engine sound

Thanks to Hippo and MarkWizard for the suggestions and advice in the "Stuck with Freelander..." thread. Rather than continuing to piggyback, i decided to start my own thread.

I mentioned I was ordering a MAF unit to see if it fixes the problems. Well, I installed it and it made no difference. To date I've replaced the spark plugs and both (fore and aft of catalytic converter) oxygen sensors.

I've read where a broken intake manifold can cause some of the problems I'm having, including rattling engine noises (loss of power at speed, rough running/idling, smell of rich exhaust, transmission shifting prematurely, staying too long in lower gears and rough shifting, especially while cold).

Is anyone familiar with this issue? I'm contemplating ordering the manifold. But do you know of a repair for it in lieu of replacement?

Thank you in advance.

the butterfly operating arm on the power vis collapses (made of plastic) so effectively there is either too much air going in or by the sound of yours not enough depending on where the butterflies are stuck. if its rattling then its a new un and you're looking at around 5-600 quid for a new one. theres a guy on xpower mg forum who runs/races zs180's (same kv6 engine) who have bought up around 400 manifolds for the mg racing teams but they are selling them on, i can get a number for him if you want to try him first?

The Rover75 uses the KV6 and the Manifold is cheaper, but interchangeable.

they are £465 plus £14 postage from vulcan racing...

After listening to sound on videos posted on YouTube, I''m thinking my issue may not be in the manifold. But I am having some performance issues.

So far I've replaced spark plugs, both oxygen sensors (before and after catalytic converter, air filter and MAF, with no change). The vehicle has almost 130,000 miles on the clock, so I don't regret replacing those components, as I'm sure they were needed.

I've ordered HT leads which will come in tomorrow. If that doesn't correct the rough idling and running, I'll start checking on the coil packs.

I thank you for all the suggestions. Please keep 'em coming. I'll report back on my progress on the leads.

lol.... still manifold!

at least check the Vis valve plenum. It is such a common problem, it would be rash not to do so. As above Rover75 ones are the same, but cheaper

read this

The catch tank is a good idea on all KV6 lumps as it reduces significantly the oil getting to the intake system.

markyzs180 said:

lol.... still manifold!

Click to expand...

Cool. I'll still keep it in mind then, if the leads don't change anything (that rattling sound is coming from somewhere).

Do the ends of the leads come straight off the coil? I tried removing one. The spark plug end was no problem, I tried the other end and it is not budging. I dont want to break anything.

Also, to the Mad Hat Man: could you elaborate on checking the VIS valve plenum? How would I check, and what would I look for?

Thank you all again.

read inlet manifold rattle and VIS Valve maintenance and VIS Valve actuator repair and Vis valve Motor repair.
Make sure yu have had the A151 software upgrade carried out (Ring LR).

Fit a catch tank to stop the oil getting as far as the inlet manifold chamber (not the inlet manifold) or fit a V8 fire trap in the line - They're just a small piece of metal with two pipe end and a centre body - the centre body contains a wire mesh folded many times. On the V8s they get gunged up frequently and you either clean them in petrol or replace them as they're very cheap.

Well, I've replaced the leads and found that one of the spark plug ends (#3, middle) showed evidence of being pretty fouled up.




I do detect somewhat of a smoothing out of the engine, and there seems to be less missing than before, but I can tell all is not quite well yet. I'll be investigating this further, armed with the advice given me by The Mad Hat Man and others to see if I can get to the bottom of this.

I'll keep you all posted.

Question: does anyone know of a source for the manifold chamber by itself? It sounds like the chamber is the only affected part of the manifold, and prices I'm seeing for the entire assembly are between 500-800 BPS. I've searched on eBay and can't seem to locate the manifold chamber. Thanks again.

you can't get the chamber on its own, its a complete assembly

I've read some mention of a remanufactured assembly. Any thoughts on that?

if it was sheddist on xpf i don't think he's doing them which is a shame

Ok. Turns out the missing was due, at least in part, to the fact that cylinder 3 is not firing. I switched the coils 3 and 5 and it's confirmed: ignition coil 3 is bad. I'll be ordering one first thing Monday, but I do know something's up with this plenum, too, due to the rattling.

I'm getting there.

Re: manifold/plenum chamber, I bought one for £57.60 inc VAT and delivery via breakeryard.com.
As others have said make sure you get the firmware update or the problem will reoccur.
The Rover 75 didn't have the same firmware problem so if you get a used one, safer to go for one of those (plus it's cheaper!).

Thanks a lot for the tip. I'll check into it right now. Could you give me some particulars on the Rover 75 (year, engine size, model features, etc,) to enter a search on breakeryard.com? I'm in America, so not familiar with the series.

Thanks.

Well, try as I might, I was not able to keep up with the issues I was experiencing with my beloved Freebie. On the expressway the vehicle just stopped. After having it towed to a garage that deals expressly with Euro cars, I was informed the vehicle threw the timing belt (only 52k miles on it), and had likely damages some valves and heads. To top it off, it seem there's a bad rod, also.

I thought it wiser to just sell as is and move on. I got $2500 for it, from a nice young man who rebuilds engines for a living. He wanted to give it to his girlfriend. I ended up buying a 2005 Volvo S4i sedan. Great car, really nice looking with 77k miles on it. First thing I'm doing is having the timing belt and water pump replaced.

I had to laugh. All the parts cost me $184 shipped, and the labor, including tax is $263. LOL!!! One thing I will not miss is the exorbitant parts and labor prices on my little SUV. Timing belt change: over $2000!

After 128,000 miles, I had a great run with the vehicle. Absolutely loved it! But it is what it is. In the end, it just wasn't worth it for me to keep throwing good money after bad. Thanks to all who offered advice and support. I sincerely appreciated it.

Peace!

A sad day.