Rotten rotting rotten stuff

Ryder · Oct 2, 2011

As mahy of you knwo already I am trying to return my old 200tdi disco to something approaching road worthiness. Removed the rear bumper and found the rearmost panel, (under the tailgate) was riddled with rot... so Kai and I have cut out all the rot and welded plates in place. Painting that panel tomorrow...

However... took a look at the bottom of the C post while assessing whether to weld the boot floor or replace it...

A tiny liuttle gap where the wheel arch meets the C post was revealed to be a hole the size of my fist when I put me hand up there to have a little feel around. In fact my hand went straight up the inside of the c post.

Questions:

1... can I cut out the wheel arches and replace them with arches of my own design? I would rather have square arches than the curvy ones... and since there are going to be no rear seats the seatbelt mounting points will not figure in the MOT. This is not for aesthetic reasons... I am planning on storing quite a lot of kit in the back of the motor and square arches would lend themselves to easier cabinet design.

2... If I cut out the boot floor - is there any reason not to replace it with...say chequerplate, or even a simple sheet of steel... and if chequerplate can it be welded easily?

I know I will have to get replacement C post bottoms and that is fine (in fact I already have some) I also realise it is not going to be an easy job for a novice welder like myself to do... which is why I intend letting my 12 year old do it!

I would appreciate any opinions on these ideas - especially if I have failed to notice a glaring downfall!

jai_landrover · Oct 2, 2011

Hi Chris,

Honestly Paddocks repair panels will make it far less work. You could make your own but the price of steel and bending it to the shape you need and measuring loads makes the price of them from Paddocks pretty good. You will have enough to del with getting them stictched in let alo0ne making your own ones.

jai_landrover · Oct 2, 2011

Dunno how your gonna make it all fit with the rear doors either

Dippypud · Oct 2, 2011

Before you go hacking and slicing around the C pillar...

check with a known good, original vehicle...

IIRR the under wheelarch only has a smallish hole there, which has a rubber bung in it. The C pillar has a smallish arc gap at the bottom of the 3 sides of the C pillar.

The wheelarch being a compound curve is a bit of a bugger, but it is a little flatter on top.

Ryder · Oct 3, 2011

Thanks for the comments both of you... I appreciate that the paddocks parts will be easier... just thought putting square ones in woul be more convenient but I accept what you are saying. The floor is going to have to come out too... and while it is out I am thinking that there may be a couple of other jobs before it goes back in.

The rear cross member is ok but I am told that painting it with the floor out is easier than otherwise...

I looked at this site Lard Rover Rear Floor Repair Guide and thought it made a few good points.

It keeps talking about pool welding though I have no idea what that might be so some learning to do in that case...

Also it talks about a weld drill to remove spot welds...

Now I know this makes me thick but is a weld drill a specific type of drill or can I simply uise a normal tungsten bit?

jamesmartin · Oct 3, 2011

you can buy specific spot weld drills or use ordinary bit carefully so you dont drill through underlying metal ,you drill holes then fill holes with weld makes a spot weld without spot welder and is best method of fitting many panels like bottom edge of sill panels

The Mad Hat Man · Oct 3, 2011

wot he said ^^^^

puddle welding is the dogs

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/8mm-COBAL...plies_Paint&hash=item19bc45048c#ht_1230wt_716

Ryder · Oct 3, 2011

Thanks James and MHM. Have not tried puddle welding as I said...so I will do some online investigating right now!

jamesmartin · Oct 3, 2011

just get a bit of scrap sheet drill some 6 mm holes and place on top of another piece and try esaier than youd think

jai_landrover · Oct 3, 2011

Aye weld air does the spot weld drill bits makes it alot easier i think we used 3 doing the whole back end of the 300 disco.

Unfortunatly can't show you Jimmys mota new guy very local to us has got an old 2 door welded up solid he's working all weekdays best repair non professional I've seen and he even scrubbed out the interior motor looks new apart fromhis doors but he'll be about playing at weekends with us at somepoint. Dick did the welding and I must say twas a propper job! Can't wait to see his old Rover car. His 200 is probably the neatest disco for its age about soon to be modified. He wanted a good starting point and he's got a better motor than most around.

The Mad Hat Man · Oct 3, 2011

it can make a really neat job, as once welded, clean the weld flush with the surface and it doesnt look as if its been touched. It also has the advantage that you can paint all the parts prior to fit, drill a hole through the outer section and clean the material behind the holes, use weld through primer where you are going to weld and it is already protected

. Bit of seam sealer and BoB is yo Aunt Fanny

Ryder · Oct 3, 2011

Sounds like a fine plan!

Dippypud · Oct 3, 2011

Ryder said:
I looked at this site Lard Rover Rear Floor Repair Guide and thought it made a few good points.

It keeps talking about pool welding though I have no idea what that might be so some learning to do in that case...

Also it talks about a weld drill to remove spot welds...

Now I know this makes me thick but is a weld drill a specific type of drill or can I simply uise a normal tungsten bit?

Spot Weld Remover 50g | Screwfix.com

if you use a spotweld cutter make sure you centre punch where you want to drill or it'll skit all over and drive you nuts, also use plenty of cutting lube, WD40 or TT any cheap squirty will do.

jamesmartin · Oct 4, 2011

or you could just use ordinary bit

blue beasty · Oct 4, 2011

jamesmartin said:
or you could just use ordinary bit

You can but you are halfway through the second layer before you've drilled out the weld. I've used flat tipped wood bits in the past but they dont last long

jamesmartin · Oct 4, 2011

not half way if you do it right ,and you can resharpen bit as many times as you like ,you leave some weld and split with chisel ,most spot weld drills ive tried in biggish job ****

Dippypud · Oct 4, 2011

jamesmartin said:
not half way if you do it right ,and you can resharpen bit as many times as you like ,you leave some weld and split with chisel ,most spot weld drills ive tried in biggish job ****

They last better with lube, best applied by an assisstant whilst drilling...

I did a whole boot floor including cross strapdoo dat thingys that support the floor, with 2 spot weld cutters. Used ordinary bit to cut weldpool holes in replacement floor tho.

Ryder · Oct 8, 2011

Talking about lube... And I appologise if this is a dumb question, but I bought Kai a bench drill.... one of these overhead thingys. He uses it quite a lot but we haven't really dealt with the question of cooling while drilling.

Now I remember 30 years ago when I was at school there was coolant almost continuously shooting at the work while the drilling was taking place.

Is this necessary? What is the coolant (oil of some sort?)

jamesmartin · Oct 8, 2011

if its getting hot ,you can get aerosol tins for one off jobs

Dippypud · Oct 8, 2011

Drill and Cutting coolant/Lubricant : Keeping cutters cool and sharp

Supercut FLUID500MLSFX Broaching Cutting Fluid 500ml | Screwfix.com

cooling spray | eBay

Rotten rotting rotten stuff

Having a senior moment

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Leaks an prone to bits dropping off

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