rotten boot floor

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I know you'll all laugh at this but when I did mine I just cut out the rotten bit with a grinder , painted it then stuck the new floor down on top of old with silicone ,screws and pop rivets .I couldn't get the seatbelt mounting off so I just cut a hole and slipped floor over it. It passed mot to.Had to adjust with big hammer to get seats to lock back down. I'll do anything to save a few quid.:D
 
Hello There, I have the same problem, not a lot of money, and a lot to do, i have just bought a rear floor pan, 58 pounds and two inner sill's, and a inner wing repair kit, and a rear body mount, and a intermediate cross member, the list goes on, you would be safer getting the propper stuff, i too have children, six of them, i'd sooner be safe than sorry, best of luck. Fred.
 
iv decided to get the proper parts and do it properly . iv been given a quote of £150 to do it all including the side of the boot floor upto the wheel arch and a small part in the wheel arch ( thats not including the parts ) so iv just got to sell the fiesta now to pay for it :mad: .
is there anything else i should look out for when its being done ?
 
darrenwall said:
iv decided to get the proper parts and do it properly . iv been given a quote of £150 to do it all including the side of the boot floor upto the wheel arch and a small part in the wheel arch ( thats not including the parts ) so iv just got to sell the fiesta now to pay for it :mad: .
is there anything else i should look out for when its being done ?
Click to expand...


Hi Darren, when you remove the bootfloor you'll probably find that you need both floor crossmembers and both flat plate tensioners. There are two part numbers for the crossmembers as listed below, don't get one of each (which is what you ultimately need!!) get two of part no.ALR8519
and grind off the plate for the brake hose plate. It's cheaper to do that!!

Links:- Body_and_Panels

Hope that helps, if you need anymore info please just ask,

Cheers
Dave
 
Hello Again, Last week i bought an intermediate cross member, from our local landrover spares robber, it cost me £41 inc VAT, yesterday i went to MM landrover spares, on the A38 between Droitwich and Worcester, i boght two main crossmembers and a intermediate one, they cost me about £45 for the three, MM do online ordering, and you get 5% discount for ordering online, they are the cheapest i have found in the country, why not give them a try. Fred.
 
My 95 disco boot had a big hole right along the rear cross member. Last weekend I cleaned it with a wire brush, painted it with rust eater and then sprayed with hamerrite and applied a large sheet of fiber glass.
Checked it today - looks like it needs a bit more epoxy in places to proof - seems to be pretty strong as fiberglass is right on cross member.
 
Seems like I'm a couple of months late on this thread but what the hell.

I've just replaced the boot floor on my 95 Disco and have a few comments relating to the issues already raised.

If the vehicle floor has failed the MOT and you plan to have it retested at the same garage, the tester will almost certainly check the repair and for it to pass, the new panel must be continuously seam welded around the the entire perimeter of the new panel. Spot welding in the same way that the original panel was will not pass so for MOT retests, I guess pop riveting is out and marine ply definitely not. That said if you are prepareing the vehicle for the initial MOT test, these techniques may be an option but my advice is weld a replacement part in. I got my replacement floor from Country Rovers in Chard for £65. If you can make your own panel up for less, fine but I wouldn't bother unless totally skint as opposed to nearly completely skint like me. Mine took about 2 hours to drill out the original spot welds, cut out the floor and prepare for welding. About another 2 hours for the welding, painting, seam sealer.

The floor supports on mine were not too bad so I didn't need to replace them. It seems replacement supports can be difficult to get hold of. If so, I would have thought it fairly straight forward to make up something similar.
 
v8 disco biscuit said:
Seems like I'm a couple of months late on this thread but what the hell.

I've just replaced the boot floor on my 95 Disco and have a few comments relating to the issues already raised.

If the vehicle floor has failed the MOT and you plan to have it retested at the same garage, the tester will almost certainly check the repair and for it to pass, the new panel must be continuously seam welded around the the entire perimeter of the new panel. Spot welding in the same way that the original panel was will not pass so for MOT retests, I guess pop riveting is out and marine ply definitely not. That said if you are prepareing the vehicle for the initial MOT test, these techniques may be an option but my advice is weld a replacement part in. I got my replacement floor from Country Rovers in Chard for £65. If you can make your own panel up for less, fine but I wouldn't bother unless totally skint as opposed to nearly completely skint like me. Mine took about 2 hours to drill out the original spot welds, cut out the floor and prepare for welding. About another 2 hours for the welding, painting, seam sealer.

The floor supports on mine were not too bad so I didn't need to replace them. It seems replacement supports can be difficult to get hold of. If so, I would have thought it fairly straight forward to make up something similar.
Click to expand...


Don't take this the wrong way but your MOT tester is a prick who knows nothing about discoveries. or MOT's for that matter. If you are patching a structural component it must be fully seam welded. At this point your MOt testers intelligence comes in to question If replacing a complete panel it may be fitted using the same method of fixing as the original panel. SO if the original is spot welded then so can the new one.

Secondly a discovery boot floor is not a structural item and therefore not an MOT testable item. The seatbelt mounts pass thru the floor and are attached to the chassis. There is therefore nothing structural nor are there any safety critical items attached to it. SO you can fit anything you like in anyway you like.
 
to carry on further to what pikey has correctly said, fuel lines do not come into the test unless they are leaking
 
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