Replacing rotor filter housing

can somebody tell me what's involved in replacing the rotor filter housing on a td5 incase I run into problems with the bolts when changing my filter as I've read that the bolts can strip the threads.

If it's not too difficult to replace the housing then I'm happy to take the gamble with the filter change.

Thanks

Kadonkadonk1 said:

can somebody tell me what's involved in replacing the rotor filter housing on a td5 incase I run into problems with the bolts when changing my filter as I've read that the bolts can strip the threads.

If it's not too difficult to replace the housing then I'm happy to take the gamble with the filter change.

Thanks

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bolts are captive in that they dont pull out of housing cap ,just ensure cap sits fully home before nipping the bolts up, its trying to pull the cap down square that strips the threads

If you mean the whole housing, I have done two in the last two months due to previous owners stripping threads and they are a doddle as long as you give yourself enough room. Three bolts, make sure they go back in the same places as they're different lengths. Easiest to remove and re-fit with the drain hose connected and when re-fitting bolt the drain hose to the sump last otherwise it'll be a bugger to line up. Make sure everything is clean around the area. Probably a 30 minute job. If you are getting a brand new rotor filter housing they are expensive, but if getting used check with the seller that the bolts/threads are intact. The torque setting is 9NM for the lid (although for a disco with the exact same filter housing they say 10NM in RAVE, I stuck with 9). You will also need two gaskets for the drain tube, LRJ100000, and a new O ring for the housing ERR7098.