replacing my antifreeze

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dougdotcom

Active Member
Posts
605
Location
Langley Mill. Nottingham
im replacing the antifreeze tomorow weather permiting, after looking at the water inside the header tank i see what look like specks of copper like you find in copper grease, would this have got in by means of work carried out by last owner or is this the remains of something that hides leaks or even worse, ill know better tomorow when i drain the rad into a bucket, any thoughts on the copper specks.. (RR 4.0 ltr p38)
 
that sounds like k seal, tbh i would leave it alone..
that bad :( if its the head gaskets leaking ill fix the head gasket, i took the plug out of the right passangers bank and the one near the bulk head had old oil on it id removed the ht lead before removing the plug and no difference in engine noise so it was not fireing on that cylinder, even afer cleaning the plug it was the same, might try a new plug tomorow and see if it manages to clear its self. also brought a Automotive Compression Gauge Tester to check the faulty cylinder... what should the reading be for a good cylinder it reads 0-300psi And 0-21bar
 
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Pressure should be within around 10% variation between cylnders. Typical readings around of 140 psi should be expected but balanced readings are more important.
To change anti freeze, undo the drain plug at the bottom of the radiator, if needs be, remove the top hose and give both the block and the rad. a flush through. Refill the system with 50/50 mix of GOOD quality antifreeze and water.
 
Deffo K-Seal.. I used in on my VFR bike, for a split rad... Just blocked up my overflow tube, as too much in the system.. Used JB Weld instead on the cracked rad... Worked a treat....
 
Pressure should be within around 10% variation between cylnders. Typical readings around of 140 psi should be expected but balanced readings are more important.
To change anti freeze, undo the drain plug at the bottom of the radiator, if needs be, remove the top hose and give both the block and the rad. a flush through. Refill the system with 50/50 mix of GOOD quality antifreeze and water.

Hope you had a good holiday and that your liver is still functioning after all that Ouzo:eek:
 
I think you will find its the lead and not the plug. I found compression should be more like 155psi and about 160-170 wet (with a bit of oil squirted in).
Take all the plugs out and take a look at the colour. Brown porcelain with rust around the bottom edge means water ingress, it by gasket or liner problem.
 
With a drop of oil squirted in the reading will be higher. There is no figuresgiven for what they should be. It is more important that all cylinders read within 10% or so, the same.

Datatek, thanks for the welcome back message...I'm working on a detox programme !!!!!

:tea:
 
its kseal alrite, just remember if you change the coolant you will need to put more k-seal in or it will leak again!

unless you wanna strip it and sort H/G liners, cracked blocks heads ,leaky core pluga that require the gearbox off or a leaky hetaer matrix that need the dash out :p

is it worth it you have to ask for £5.99 can of k-seal and maybe a few more years of trouble free running.

BTW that k seal never blocked my heaer matrix and my core plugs still dont leak :p
 
Replaced with new Plug (NGK bpr6e). and now running on all 8 cylinders :) but have to wait for compresion test till tester arrives from flebay. only a £10. bargain! welcome back John hope your geting back to the grind of life.:D photo of old plug, looks wet smells of petrol but would not fire up, new one fired instantly tried it 4hrs later still 8 cylinders. will try again in the morning. :)

LPIC3656.jpg
 
Well its 5 days and still fires up on 8 and as smooth as you like, now as its a nice day im going to do the antifreeze with some added k seal till i can find where the leak is. going to have the LPG set up next week at local LPG garage. still backfires and no pulling power from start off. good on tickover on LPG and petrol. :)
 
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