replacement of swivel, ball as well.

im sorry to bring this up as it probably has been done to death but im going to take on the task of replacing both sides of my swivel balls, seals and the rest.

Can someone please help me as a rookie on this task please, can you point me into the right direction as to the parts i require to complete this task please. I plan on replacing the whole lot - seals, shims and what ever is needed. i have seen kits but im not sure if everything i need is in there.
Your help will be greatly appreciated.

per side you need ,chrome ball frc7065 x1,seal ftc3401 x1,swivel bearings 606666g x2 ,wheel bearings rtc3429g x2,hub seal ftc4785 x1,lock washer ftc3179,you dont need to remove bottom swivel pin at all ,silicone is fine for sealing ,your old shims will be okay ,kits do contain most stuff but tend to be pattern parts

wow thats exactly what im wanting to know, ive just seen the price of brand new swivel ball and i am deeply shocked. but i know i will need to replace them as they are pitted and very corroded. i will look at them codes on the web and order them up. i want to get all the parts before i take them apart, as they say "dont want to be caught with my pants down"

The bolts that hold the swivel ball to the axle are a right pain to get off. Some times decide to shear so if you can get a few of those bolts just incase.

I'd suggest that you remove the axle completely. Hardly much more effort, but makes it way easier, and probably safer, to get to all the bits. It's not necessary, and will add a couple of hours work, but in my experience if the swivels have gone it's also worth checking the track rod ends and all associated bushes etc ..

Most garages won't do this 'cos time is money to them, but if it's your vehicle and if you have the time and space to do it, it'll tell you a lot about the condition of the vehicle.

OTOH, it could open a whole new kettle of fish ... or trail of 'repairs needed' ...

If youve got abs you need different top swivel bearing to non abs

If the bolts to axle are stuck heat them as it might be the land rover thread lock making a PITA to remove

Yep I've done this job.......

Thanks for your replies, I've got the space and time needed to do these jobs, you should see my white board in the garage it's full of jobs as what I need to do. I think it may be better taking the axle of like you said Paul. Like I said I'm going to get all parts needed before i strip anything down. I'm not sure if my disco is abs its a 1993 disco 200tdi. I could be wrong but I don't think it is.

If you have ABS a yellow light should come on when you start it up and only go off after you get above 5mph

If the bulb is removed then there is the big abs pump behind the airbox.

I don't know if 200's had abs.

i cant see what youd gain apart from more heavy lifting ,easier with axle on , if you put g after part number you will get cheaper priced genuine parts , a long 14mm or 9/16 ring spanner is need for chrome ball bolt,yours wont be abs ,abs is noticeable by wire runing into top swivel pin

thanks jonny ive had a look at that and i think im pretty confident about doing this task.
i looked today and my disco isnt abs so thats easier i guess.

james i think it would be easier because i can address other issues like welding a patch on the diff where it has grown a hole some how so it may be easier to take it off to do some jobs on it whilst off.

just another question btw im looking at this item on ebay and was wondering if theyre worth going for or just stick to standard. This is the item number on ebay 380450945144

okay if welding it would be easier to be able to move it about ,have you link for item ,

lrdisco93 said:

thanks jonny ive had a look at that and i think im pretty confident about doing this task.
i looked today and my disco isnt abs so thats easier i guess.

james i think it would be easier because i can address other issues like welding a patch on the diff where it has grown a hole some how so it may be easier to take it off to do some jobs on it whilst off.

just another question btw im looking at this item on ebay and was wondering if theyre worth going for or just stick to standard. This is the item number on ebay 380450945144

Click to expand...

Let us know how you got on eh.. I got to do this at somepoint. Pre warned is pre armed n all that..
Hope is goes ok

You'll need fishing type spring balance to "set" the swivel preload as well.

lrdisco93 said:

thanks jonny ive had a look at that and i think im pretty confident about doing this task.
i looked today and my disco isnt abs so thats easier i guess.

james i think it would be easier because i can address other issues like welding a patch on the diff where it has grown a hole some how so it may be easier to take it off to do some jobs on it whilst off.

just another question btw im looking at this item on ebay and was wondering if theyre worth going for or just stick to standard. This is the item number on ebay 380450945144

Click to expand...

Stick to standard.

Drilled and grooved discs don't really do a great deal more than standard, especially on something the weight of a barge!

redhand said:

You'll need fishing type spring balance to "set" the swivel preload as well.

Click to expand...

sorry youve lost me on this one could you please elaborate on this please. just got lucky today and won some used but good condition swivel balls for a tenner so just need all the seals and gaskets and shims.

paul ill stick with original and leave these drilled ones out. theyll be cheaper aswell. ill be ordering some of them.

Spring balance is used to measure the force needed to turn the swivel, effectively setting the correct pre-load. It's all in the manual ...

i guess this setting will be in the good old trusty haynes manual yes ?

Think so. From memory 12 Nm (or lbs) comes to memory, but that could be anything so please check first!!!!

defenders with rialko bush are 8 to 10 lbs but swivels with bearing top and bottom like disco need only 1-1.5 kg or 2-3lbs