rem body cross member
- Thread starter Savage
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shocker
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Thats a sod of a job,or can be.Just from the welding,which is about 10% of the job I cant see it being under 200.Getting the old mounts apart is a bitch cos the bolts freeze in the bushes.More like 4-500 at a guess.
![[JP]](/data/avatars/m/29/29578.jpg?1437394565){kind=avatar}
[JP]
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its a pain of a job!!!
if i was to do it i would charge 500 for it...
if i was to do it i would charge 500 for it...
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
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Someone I spoke to charges around 1000 including parts :O
shocker
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Im not surprised.Getting those mounts apart is a real beeytch.Cant even gas axe it cos of the tight spacing.Took me a day to get ONE out once.
Can it not be patched up with new mounts and plates?
Can it not be patched up with new mounts and plates?
[JP]
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that's what I did on mine...
just patched it up... including the body mount boxs..
this is how it was
just patched it up... including the body mount boxs..
this is how it was
[JP]
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well, if it was me and if I had the whole beam, i would just go mental with a disc cutter and start ripping the old one bit by bit, cut the old boxes out and then get to the body mounts and then if in too bad state, cut them off and put new ones in...
but assume you dont have the means to do it yourself, right? cuting and welding?
but assume you dont have the means to do it yourself, right? cuting and welding?
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
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It does look like a bitch to do, even worse to get right.
the whole top half of mine has disappeared, and the undersode has some holes too.
i have plated up the mounts amd patched a few areas, and remarkably it is surviving, despite some very hard knocks during regular offroading.
it really needs doing, but i am concerned that:
1. i will cut it away and take off too much/not take enough off/not be able to make a decent job of replacing it
2. the rear body will drop when i remove the support, and it will make life very difficult
3. i will struggle to get the quarter panels removed and refitted.
i also need to do a full boot floor and surrounds, also the rear arch tubs are pretty holey.
all in all a major welding task, and i dont know if i can be arsed starting the job.
i want the truck to be right, and i hate rust (have done front arches and sills beautifully
) but the rear end just needs so much cutting away in one go it will be a hella job!
argh, maybe this winter when the roads are too salty i'll cut it up
cheers, sam
the whole top half of mine has disappeared, and the undersode has some holes too.
i have plated up the mounts amd patched a few areas, and remarkably it is surviving, despite some very hard knocks during regular offroading.
it really needs doing, but i am concerned that:
1. i will cut it away and take off too much/not take enough off/not be able to make a decent job of replacing it
2. the rear body will drop when i remove the support, and it will make life very difficult
3. i will struggle to get the quarter panels removed and refitted.
i also need to do a full boot floor and surrounds, also the rear arch tubs are pretty holey.
all in all a major welding task, and i dont know if i can be arsed starting the job.
i want the truck to be right, and i hate rust (have done front arches and sills beautifully
) but the rear end just needs so much cutting away in one go it will be a hella job!argh, maybe this winter when the roads are too salty i'll cut it up
cheers, sam
shocker
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Noisy,the body WILL drop when you remove all its supports!You need to jack the body up and support it so there is no movement,as near as possible.
Savage - just cos you GOT a whole crossmember doesnt mean you have to USE the whole thing,you can just cut it and use the bits that need doing.Personally,having done it before,its such a bugger to do I'd just do the whole lot and get it done with.Its not a terribly complex job,more awkward and ardous.LRO magazine had a step by step on it this year sometime,try and search them for the old issue on their site.Im not sure if it was for a disco or not but it will give you the general idea.The thing IS do able for a newbie....just a bit daunting.But if you take it one step at a time and just concentrate on each bit of the job as seperate things then it wont overwhelm you.Also showing the LRO pics to your welder brother might make him say...."thats a piece of ****,get stuck in!"
Savage - just cos you GOT a whole crossmember doesnt mean you have to USE the whole thing,you can just cut it and use the bits that need doing.Personally,having done it before,its such a bugger to do I'd just do the whole lot and get it done with.Its not a terribly complex job,more awkward and ardous.LRO magazine had a step by step on it this year sometime,try and search them for the old issue on their site.Im not sure if it was for a disco or not but it will give you the general idea.The thing IS do able for a newbie....just a bit daunting.But if you take it one step at a time and just concentrate on each bit of the job as seperate things then it wont overwhelm you.Also showing the LRO pics to your welder brother might make him say...."thats a piece of ****,get stuck in!"
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
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Cheers for the info shocker.
Yeah the problem is I couldn't decide where to support it!
I was thinking scaffold tube up to the roof, with a piece of wood?
If I'm gonna do it, I'll have the rear door, rear quarters and whole boot floor and side panels out before I remove the main support.
The other option is to leave the remaining 60% of it, cut out the **** bits and repair it, but I view that as half a job cos it is pretty damn rusty back there.
Hmmm!
Yeah the problem is I couldn't decide where to support it!
I was thinking scaffold tube up to the roof, with a piece of wood?
If I'm gonna do it, I'll have the rear door, rear quarters and whole boot floor and side panels out before I remove the main support.
The other option is to leave the remaining 60% of it, cut out the **** bits and repair it, but I view that as half a job cos it is pretty damn rusty back there.
Hmmm!
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