Red Oxide Primer. The Big Questions.

Right.. Mordant, primer, chassis black it is then...

Priority 1... Hide the galv to make it less attractive. 2... Provide a few years of protection before the galv takes over the defence. I'll probably fill it with 3125 or waxoyl anyway.... Can't hurt.

farmershort said:

Right.. Mordant, primer, chassis black it is then...

Priority 1... Hide the galv to make it less attractive. 2... Provide a few years of protection before the galv takes over the defence. I'll probably fill it with 3125 or waxoyl anyway.... Can't hurt.

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Sounds like a proper job!

Personally I prefer the appearance of a black chassis anyway, although I guess some would differ.

farmershort said:

Right... So this is underseal then.... The stuff that has pretty much got a terrible name now for allowing water to seep underneath?

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kinda. it's usually waxoyl which gets the bad rep. dinitrol is everyones darling atm.

the main thing is to do a proper coating so no water can get in. since it's galved and will probably last 10-16years with only a hose down every now and again anyway (esp grit in winter) then i'd probably just dinitrol it with as few cans, nice and easy

takes your chances though

trax said:

kinda. it's usually waxoyl which gets the bad rep. dinitrol is everyones darling atm.

the main thing is to do a proper coating so no water can get in. since it's galved and will probably last 10-16years with only a hose down every now and again anyway (esp grit in winter) then i'd probably just dinitrol it with as few cans, nice and easy

takes your chances though

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Galv should last about 25 years if it isn't exposed to too much salt. I have galvanised gates from when I cam e here 22 years ago, rust is appearing on a few spots now.

Bought the Teamac cold zinc stuff in the end, claims to dry over 90% zinc, should be applying it in the next few days!

Turboman said:

Galv should last about 25 years if it isn't exposed to too much salt. I have galvanised gates from when I cam e here 22 years ago, rust is appearing on a few spots now.

Bought the Teamac cold zinc stuff in the end, claims to dry over 90% zinc, should be applying it in the next few days!

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25, even better!

nice, heavier than what you think isn't it

hopefully it'll do the job.

trax said:

25, even better!

nice, heavier than what you think isn't it

hopefully it'll do the job.

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Tin is reasonably heavy, haven't opened it yet, hoping to be greeted with a blast of lovely solvents when I do!

Should be ok, it is round the back of the building, where the salt winds aren't directly on it.

trax said:

i emailed the dinitrol guys and they think it's fine to go straight onto galv.

question
"Can you tell me if Dinitrol 4941 can go directly on galvanised metal.
Specifically a land rover defender with a new galvanised chassis?

Or does it need t-wash, primed and top coated as usual?"

answer
"You can put it straight on to chassis as long as it is clean and free from dust"

who know's if they are totally correct. could always do a test area

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That doesnt sound very convincing............. Then again Unless you phone Poland your only talking to a distributor so they probably dont even know whats in it. At least if it all falls off in sheets you can try something else.
Untilyou try you cant give us all a report......

Ive been using dinitrol a few years now, and its better than the waxoyl stuff. Im doing my own galv chassis rebuild at the moment and will be using the below products on it once its built up.

I put some on the 90 a couple of years ago and its still holding up nicely, and even better in the box sections where i can see.

Dinitrol ML3125 - Is a really thin almost oily water consistency stuff which you use in a cavity gun. It atomises into a mist basically and gets into every nook and cranny. Its no good at all for outside a box section. Apparently its got rust inhibitors in it as well. I had both doors off mine and when blasting it into the upper hinge on one side you can see the mist coming out the other side of the vehicle!

Dinitrol 4941 - This is a black, thicker; similar to waxoyl consistency product you use on the outside of box sections, down the chassis rails, axles etc. It goes on like waxoyl but is a little thinner and doesnt require mixing with diesel or engine oil to get it working. It sets into a flexible covering. Mine has been off roading extensively and hasnt rubbed off the exposed areas. After a couple of years id like to stick a bit more on, but only from a aesthetic point of view as its still clearly working.

Dinitrol 445 - This is the stone chip, and is the thickest stuff and goes on to form a thicker covering for high impact areas. You can use all these products on top of each other, so put the 4941 on first underneath and then put 445 over the top once its fairly dry (same day is fine) on the high impact areas.

I put all this stuff on with a 2hp air compressor and sealey gun.

mikeh501 said:

Dinitrol ML3125 - Is a really thin almost oily water consistency stuff which you use in a cavity gun. It atomises into a mist basically and gets into every nook and cranny. Its no good at all for outside a box section. Apparently its got rust inhibitors in it as well. I had both doors off mine and when blasting it into the upper hinge on one side you can see the mist coming out the other side of the vehicle!

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Yes, seen it misting out all over when sprayed inside. Runs over metal like a penetrating oil.
That was what I liked when I first used it, it seemed like it would have a chance of penetrating the tricky double skinned areas and around the welded in stiffener tubes inside the chassis.

Bobsticle said:

I started the thread to evoke thought into paint systems and why none painters like tin bashers and wood butchers think up their own reasons for painting a certain way.

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Mate, just 'cos we're not experts that doesn't make us c*nts

payydg said:

Mate, just 'cos we're not experts that doesn't make us c*nts

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The thought never entered my mind.


Seems to have been some healthy debate on the subject. All for the greater good and all that.

Apparently red oxide followed by val-something - or - other trailer enamel... With hardener, is supposed to be amazing.

Valspar truck and trailer enamel.... And added hardener.