Rear hub seals..does this look right?

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seanlandy

seanlandy

Active Member
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Well, the day of doom came this week and my 1987 90 failed its MOT on rear outriggers, hole in the chassis and many advisories. Great! Anyway, I decided, whilst waiting for my outriggers to come, to tackle the leaking hub oil seals. Now on reading many a post on these, it just says to punch in to the same depth as they were, assuming they were correct on the first place. I have tapped the rear one with the lip, so it is flush, with the lip just protruding, and the front one so it is about 4mm depth, as per attached photos. Does this look about right? When you see a guy on you tube knocking them in with the correct tool, they seem both recesses (I must ask my mate to machine up one of these on his lathe)
Any thoughts please on my fail to pass route.
 

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if your punching them in ensure garter spring doesnt slip off though the rear one is a type tha doesnt have a garter spring, its fitted ok the lips are dirt deasl that run on face of stub axle and werent on earlier seals
 
Thanks. So they are good to go? I would have thought the odd washer that sits inside the front seal has a key way for a reason, or rather it's not circular in the middle, It seems an odd design and can't see it on the picture in my manual,
 
is it a 90 or 110 in my 90 workshop manual it says you should press seal 4.8 to5.3 mm below face of hub my work shop manual is for a 1985 v8 90 with 4 pinion diff I have view several vidios on utube but nobody mentions about fitting depth can you remember what depth the old one was fitted to if fitted flush did lip look worn or rugh as if it had been squesed to much on reading your post I see it is a90 on looking on a new seal I have it has fit to 4mm below top of hub printed aroud it
 
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Thanks for the replies chaps. I have recessed the seal so that the lip is about 1-2 mm above the top of the hub. I assume, but may be wrong, that the proper tool does for front and rear seals and so must knock the seals in to the correct depth. Maybe a trip to Craddocks to ask the mechanics.
 
I think I am about right. When I did the front a few months ago, they didn't have the same keyed washer in the front seal, as the rear drums on mine seem to have. i guess the correct sequence to reassemble would be this keyed washer, the first nut, the lock washer and then the out nut. I don't think anything else came off. It does seem odd that the inner nut should bear on the outer face of the keyed washer that locates just inside the outer seal.
 
have you got alathe or a mate with a lathe it is quite easey to make a tool to pres seal in square as I say I have a new seal that clearly states press to a depth of 4mm
 
Yes, I have a mate with a lathe who i am sure would run me one up if he knew the exact dimensions. 4mm you say. Do we take it that is the same for front and back
 
I use an old bearing shell that i've slit with a grinder on one side. I use that to drive in the new bearing shells and the Seals the slit makes it easy to remove.
 
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