Freelander 1 rear drive shaft
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Nodge68
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You should be able to get the shaft out by removing the lower link bolts. This will allow the hub assembly to swing out enough to pull the shaft out the diff. Once out the diff, you can remove the shaft from the hub. Make sure you unbolt the hub nut before starting as it can be very tight.
Alibro
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Wots up with the shaft? They don't normally have to do much work so should last the life of the car. I had to replace a gaiter once but the shaft was fine.
its knocking when slowing down on the o/s. Have checked everything else. also checking by hand it has a lot of end float
GrumpyGel
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Might be worth checking the front mount for the diff - they are often shot to pieces and cause knocking - although usually on acceleration and changing gear I believe.
I would imagine it is supported by a bearing in the diff, be careful its not that which has gone.
If the diff mount(s) has gone and need replacing, you can just about get the drive shaft out by removing the diff mounts and pushing the diff to the side compressing the drive shaft on the other side to the one you want to remove. I believe I did that without having to undo any suspension bolts - but my memory ain't what it used to be
I would imagine it is supported by a bearing in the diff, be careful its not that which has gone.
If the diff mount(s) has gone and need replacing, you can just about get the drive shaft out by removing the diff mounts and pushing the diff to the side compressing the drive shaft on the other side to the one you want to remove. I believe I did that without having to undo any suspension bolts - but my memory ain't what it used to be
Nodge68
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End float in a drive shaft is normal. It's there to allow for suspension travel. I'd be checking elsewhere as rear driveshaft failure is rare.
Have you done the one wheel up test? Are all the tyres identical with least worn on the rear?
Alibro
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As Nodge says they should slide in and out of the cups easily. They normally only knock if the have sideways movement indicating a collapsed bearing.
I guess this could happen if a gaiter has been damaged for some time without being sorted but it could be a worn bush too.
I guess this could happen if a gaiter has been damaged for some time without being sorted but it could be a worn bush too.
i will give it a go later as its tipping it down at the moment, thanksMight be worth checking the front mount for the diff - they are often shot to pieces and cause knocking - although usually on acceleration and changing gear I believe.
I would imagine it is supported by a bearing in the diff, be careful its not that which has gone.
If the diff mount(s) has gone and need replacing, you can just about get the drive shaft out by removing the diff mounts and pushing the diff to the side compressing the drive shaft on the other side to the one you want to remove. I believe I did that without having to undo any suspension bolts - but my memory ain't what it used to be
Nodge68
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It could be the diff. Have you checked the VCU isn't loading up the IRD and diff? Diff failure is more common than rear driveshaft failure. But diff failure is almost always due to incorrect tyres or a stiffening VCU.
Alibro
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As Nodge has already said, check your VCU by doing the one wheel up test. If not sure how then Google it as tons of info out there. If the time is over two minutes with 5kg at 1.2m then get the prop shaft off pronto and see how it goes, if the noise stops then you might be looking for a new diff or just drive on without the prop shaft.
Edited as corrected by teacher
Edited as corrected by teacher
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GrumpyGel
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I don't know how long you've had Freelanders or how much you know about they're transmission, but this is a useful page to get you started. It is more than worthwhile understanding how the IRD & VCU work together to provide AWD - so that you don't damage it. This link shows the 1 wheel up test...
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/tests-new-freelander-owners-should-do-on-their-car.312863/
I used to get the Uckfield train home from work in town 15 years ago, it one of the reasons I live here now
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/tests-new-freelander-owners-should-do-on-their-car.312863/
I used to get the Uckfield train home from work in town 15 years ago, it one of the reasons I live here now
A lot of the above I don,t yet understand. But have now removed the rear drive shaft, came off in two bits ?
fitted new one just need to replace the servo then road test. Only had the freelander for three months and so far have replaced front wiper motor/rear heated screen and rear brakes. All low cost items but time consuming when fitting.
thanks to all members for help
fitted new one just need to replace the servo then road test. Only had the freelander for three months and so far have replaced front wiper motor/rear heated screen and rear brakes. All low cost items but time consuming when fitting.
thanks to all members for help
well the uckfield train is still as bad,I don't know how long you've had Freelanders or how much you know about they're transmission, but this is a useful page to get you started. It is more than worthwhile understanding how the IRD & VCU work together to provide AWD - so that you don't damage it. This link shows the 1 wheel up test...
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/tests-new-freelander-owners-should-do-on-their-car.312863/
I used to get the Uckfield train home from work in town 15 years ago, it one of the reasons I live here now
Nodge68
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Two minutes, not two seconds.
Be interested in a picture of the shaft, as failure is very rare. You do need to test the VCU and make sure you have 4 identical tyres fitted. The Freelander doesn't tolerate odd tyres as it causes serious transmission damage.
Servo and master cylinder replaced, but when bleeding brakes , front ok but rear could not get too bleed nipple on either side,removed drum and found wheel cylinder at an angle to the back plate . Could not remove as badly corroded. Need to get new cylinders and a big hammer.
btw: on inspecting the old drive shaft it had separated at the diff end.
GrumpyGel
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I doubt the cylinders have corroded that badly - more likely the backing plate for the brakes that they bolt to.
Going by the setup's condition, you will also need to get new pipes from the cylinders to the flexi-hoses - or make some up.
Alibro
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If the bolt heads for the slave cylinders have rusted to a nice round lump use one of these to grind away the heads.
I found it was the only thing would reach in there and had the bolt heads ground away in seconds.
I found it was the only thing would reach in there and had the bolt heads ground away in seconds.
GrumpyGel
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The backing plates look to be about £70 each genuine with no aftermarket options. So your power tool is going to be better value - and you end up with a nice tool to hang on the garage wall
Just not sure how the cylinder could end up at an angle to the backing plate without the plate itself being bent.
The backing plates look to be about £70 each genuine with no aftermarket options. So your power tool is going to be better value - and you end up with a nice tool to hang on the garage wall
Just not sure how the cylinder could end up at an angle to the backing plate without the plate itself being bent.
have had a good look at them, the tip of the bleed nipple only shows about 2mm on the outside of the backing plate. You cant get a spanner on it, with the drum removed the cylinder is about 3mm away from the backing plate. On the bottom of the cylinder its against the backing plate. Also you can see that the contact between the shoes and cylinder is off centre.
I can only think at some point they have been replaced the originals have be levered off distorting the backplate and not corrected when the new ones were fitted, My new ones should arrive Wednesday so see how I get on
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