rear door amp/speaker losing the will to live!!

You will have two RCA outputs from your headunits bass preamplified output (preout) a left and a right channel, as you are connecting to a sub amplifer you need a mono signal so you need to common the left and right channels together so solder the center conductors together and the screen (braided outer wire) together you will then end up with just two wires the center core will go to the red the screen will go to the black.

You will end up with a lead something like my diy effort and pluged into the red/black behind my head unit..

I tried doing that and it didn't work :doh:

So much for knowing your stuff , eh Doc ?

ant.7 if your still having trouble, I've just spent a couple of days redoing the woofer assembly as the old cones were almost destroyed.

the connector in the tailgate (6 connectors, only 5 used) should have a layout like this

6 5 4
1 2 3

pin 1 is ground - 0v
2 is enable pin - 12v when ignition on
3 is power - 12v when ignition on
4 not used
5 signal - red wire
6 signal ground - black wire

as for the phono connectors on the back of your head unit they do need to be connected to red and black wires on the pink connector, but it is not advisable to just solder them together, being outputs you could damage the head unit (unlikely, but possible) the outer braid can be soldered together and should be connected to the black wire the inner cores should have a resistor 10-100ohm soldered in series to prevent them shorting each other out and then these can be connected to the red wire. some head units need the woofer output to be enabled before they work.

Just for fun I've added some pics of my new woofer assembly and the old speakers. I've had to wrap the OEM amp in foam padding as it is no longer mounted on the back of the speakers

Does anyone know how you can test if the OEM amp is actually working?
Or if you can test the output from the head unit?

That is an easy question. Yes & Yes

stevieb22 said:

ant.7 if your still having trouble, I've just spent a couple of days redoing the woofer assembly as the old cones were almost destroyed.

the connector in the tailgate (6 connectors, only 5 used) should have a layout like this

6 5 4
1 2 3

pin 1 is ground - 0v
2 is enable pin - 12v when ignition on
3 is power - 12v when ignition on
4 not used
5 signal - red wire
6 signal ground - black wire

as for the phono connectors on the back of your head unit they do need to be connected to red and black wires on the pink connector, but it is not advisable to just solder them together, being outputs you could damage the head unit (unlikely, but possible) the outer braid can be soldered together and should be connected to the black wire the inner cores should have a resistor 10-100ohm soldered in series to prevent them shorting each other out and then these can be connected to the red wire. some head units need the woofer output to be enabled before they work.

Just for fun I've added some pics of my new woofer assembly and the old speakers. I've had to wrap the OEM amp in foam padding as it is no longer mounted on the back of the speakers

Click to expand...

Hi,just wondering how the edge speakers are performing,need to get mine changed too,and are the new speakers to deep (if you get my meaning!)to mount the amp on the back of them???
Thanks.

I'd also love to know how they fit?

Can you mount the Original caging back over the speakers?

Also, I've got an Alpine head unit to install from my other car. Do i have to solder the RCA leads to fit into my loom/ISO connector?

Im just thinking it may be easier to put in a small amp on the tailgate?? It should produce more power than the Original Amp? Shouldnt it?

i was thinking of doing away with original amp too.
anyone got any suggestions as to an alternative to the original amp?


not got round to doing this job to much other work needed on the disco.

back to this job in a couple of weeks!

My door speaker and it's amp are still working but I have fitted a switch to transfer the the switching input over to a 200watt amp under the front passenger seat and that powers a 10" sub in a big box, lots of boom - boom bass from a proper sub woofer

If I require the boot space I just switch back to the door unit and unplug and lift out the big box.
Have a look at an active sub in a tube or one that surposed to slide under the seat and wire that up. You will have still have to run the correct size supply cable from the battey to any addition amp, I ran an 8mm to my amp.

discool said:

My door speaker and it's amp are still working but I have fitted a switch to transfer the the switching input over to a 200watt amp under the front passenger seat and that powers a 10" sub in a big box, lots of boom - boom bass from a proper sub woofer

Click to expand...

That sounds a good idea. both of mine are still working too but not enough bass really. Where have you put the switch? and how have you wired it? Is it in the Pre-Out? So you just switch between the out put.

Simple and very straight forward as I have a D1 this is what I did.
1. Locate the 12v amp switching supply on the existing amps terminal strip (purple/yellow wire) and remove and extent and terminate on a mini toggle change over switch DPDT and terminate a similar wire on one side of the switch and also back to the amp.
Terminate a wire on the other side of the switch and run to the new sub amplifer and the amps switching terminal.

The change-over switch switches on the existing amp one way or the new amplifer the other way.

2. Locate the audio signal pair (black & white screened cable) on the existing amps terminal strip and tee a similar cable parallel to the terminals and run to the new sub amplifier audio input.

3. Main 12v fused suppply for the new amplifier is taken direct from the battery.

Depending on the position of your new amp the additional wiring follow the the existing wiring from the door void back into the area at the back of the rear lights via the flexable rubber door hose.

My change-over switch is mounted at the rear of the door speaker grill and the access is covered with a blank grommet.

Great description. I shall hopefully be trying this within the next few weeks!

Thanks!!!!

discool said:

That is an easy question. Yes & Yes

Click to expand...

Now we know that it CAN be done, please put me out of my misery and tell me HOW to test the outputs from my blaupunkt Las Vegas head unit which I am trying to connect to the sub. I have found the red and black leads, the sub works fine with the original Philips R960 head unit, but I have had to change this HU as the DC 082 CD changer has gone kaput. The Blaupunkt CD changer that goes with the new head unit is a 10 disc number anyway, which is obviously better. Sound through the usual door and pillar speakers is brighter with it too.

The Blaupunkt unit is well old as well and identfying the two or three pinouts I need is proving a nightmare. I have identifications for some of them but, not being as wised up as some of you guys, I am not sure what they all mean. What would these pinouts be called do you think? I will be really grateful for any help you can give me. And before you ask, the Blaupunkt does not have any RCA sockets, just a C type block housing where the blue plug goes for the CD player. I know the Sub pinouts will be either where the green plug or the yellow plug goes, but what goes exactly into which pin, is the issue.

Ive just done mine .
two new speakers. The magnets were larger so I fettled the heat sink fins on the amp to refit it and some longer centre bolts.
then made a lead for the pink amp plug.