Freelander 2 (LR2) Rear Diff Oil Leak

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

PhilB64

New Member
Posts
4
Location
Swansea
9147AD44-35C6-4782-8D85-D19D3E3A4F91.jpeg
Hi
I have 2011 Freelander 2 and it has a slight oil leak on the rear diff, see photo. I have been told it’s a big job to sort as it’s plate on plate with no gasket, advised not to bother touching it, just keep an eye on the oil level in the rear diff.

Any thoughts anyone? Many Thanks!
 

Attachments

  • EC3AC457-54F8-454B-BD8D-FFFAE7203A42.jpeg
    EC3AC457-54F8-454B-BD8D-FFFAE7203A42.jpeg
    294 KB · Views: 162
As a quick fix you could try n squeeze some sealant into the part where it's leaking when cold or when it stops dripping...I've done this on leaky gaskets before, and cracked oil sumps with great results...:D

Or having looked at the pic closer, try to tighten the bolts up a touch.
 
I have been told it’s a big job to sort as it’s plate on plate with no gasket, advised not to bother touching it, just keep an eye on the oil level in the rear diff.

Someone is telling you fibs.
The diff case side cover is sealed with an O ring seal. The diff side cover is held in place with 7 bolts (those threaded studs sticking out aren't correct), and likely the cause of the issue.
It should be possible to remove the side cover with the diff in situ, so the O ring seal can replaced, once the drive shaft is pulled from the diff (suspension needs unbolting to allow this).

However as the diff is a reconditioned (and badly by the looks of it), I'd check those threaded fixings are pulling the casing together correctly, before doing any further work.
 
Someone is telling you fibs.
The diff case side cover is sealed with an O ring seal. The diff side cover is held in place with 7 bolts (those threaded studs sticking out aren't correct), and likely the cause of the issue.
It should be possible to remove the side cover with the diff in situ, so the O ring seal can replaced, once the drive shaft is pulled from the diff (suspension needs unbolting to allow this).

However as the diff is a reconditioned (and badly by the looks of it), I'd check those threaded fixings are pulling the casing together correctly, before doing any further work.
That's incredible!

Why has someone decided to put studs and nuts on instead of reusing the bolts?

Amazing what people do!
 
That's incredible!

Why has someone decided to put studs and nuts on instead of reusing the bolts?

Amazing what people do!

My guess would be whoever pulled the diff apart, maybe damaged the bolts, which then required drilling out, so a bit of studding was used instead. This is pure speculation, but seems a logical explanation.
It's definitely not correct, and most likely the cause of the leak.
 
Last edited:
Many Thanks everyone - I’ll give it a go over the weekend if it ever stops raining!

Are there even any nuts on those studs? Because it doesn't look like it from the pictures.
The studs should be bolts, but unless the cover is securely bolted to the casing, the O ring has no chance of sealing. :confused:

Tell me about the rain. I'm trying to finish off a bathroom refit, and need to go outside to cut various items, and keeping getting soaked at the same time.:mad:
 
I'm still unsure as to why it has studs to start with, but if the case isn't closed tightly, then oil will leak, the diff bearings won't be correctly preloaded either.
Make sure you keep an eye on the leak, and top the oil up too. The diff filler plug is in the last picture. ;)
 
Back
Top