Rear bags giving up the ghost

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

kieronf

New Member
Posts
223
Location
Holsworthy, Devon
The last few mornings the rear has been down a few inches, particularly on the o/s. The car rises and rides perfectly afterwards, however, it must only be a matter of time before a bag or the compressor packs up.

I intend to do the work before the weather turns really nasty and so I was wondering -

1) Is it best to replace the whole unit or just the rubber bellows

2) Should I replace all four or just the rears for now

3) What brand or replacement should I go for/definitely avoid

I seem to remember there was an idiots guide available - that will definitely be me, so any pointers as to where I might find that stuff would be appreciated.
 
Dunlop/OEM are the best to fit.....but if you have some cash hanging around you could look at the Arnett Gen 2's or 3's.....

I am sure Datatek has an Idiots Guide to Air Spring replacement he can kindly supply if you ask him nicely....

If it is only the rears that require attention, just do those to start with, but if they have gone, the Fronts won't be far behind....
 
PM sent re airbag guide. If the backs are shot then the fronts will not be far behind. Design life is 7/8 years 80K miles. I would suggest you replace all 4 while you are at it or you may end up needing a compressor overhaul. Make sure you get new fixing clips and pins. If yours has plastic end caps they should be fairly easy to get out although the rears may need a pry bar. If the end caps are alloy be prepared for a battle.
Arnott Gen 2 have a lifetime warranty and are not much more expensive from P38 Spares on Ebay than OEM. I have no connection with either company.
 
Car was reg in Sept'96, what are the mounts likely to be, alloy or plastic?

Mine's a 95 on an "N" and I had 4 with alloy end caps (one had had replacement bellows I reckon as it was much better than the other 3).

The job would be one of the easiest, most overrated ones on a P38 if it weren't for the alloy caps. As others have said they weld themselves to the chassis and body where they are attached. Retaining pins also get affected where they secure to the end caps and can be a pig to remove (I had to break most of mine as close to where they went through the caps and the use brute force).

I found 3 different sizes of pry bar, drifts (to force pins out), good long nose pliers or mole grips (for pulling pins out), selection of hammers (small lump hammer down to a pin hammer) and a choice selection of your best swear words are necessary if you have alloy caps...some Hammerite to touch up any dings/scratches you make on the chassis is also sensible.

I'd imagine plastic end caps almost change themselves by comparison...in fact because of the labour time likely to be spent simply smacking the (alloy) end caps with a hammer and pulling at the stupid things I'd never suggest getting a garage to do it if you have alloy caps...

Cheers,

Malcolm
 
Last edited:
If the pins are corroded in don't mess about use a lump hammer to smash them out.
I spent ages messing about on the first one untill i got the lump hammer out. Second one was minutes with same technique.
 
Back
Top