Ready to Fit Seats

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Been held up on my rebuild on a few bits, but still plenty to be getting on with.
Just about ready to fit seats, this is what it looks like at the minute. in pic.
Only got one lid for the seat box but just gonna cut some Checker plate to make the other 2.
Now what do others do ? should I be putting some kind of Carpeting or something around and on top of the seat box before fitting the seats, or just bolt them on as it is.?
 

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border said:
Been held up on my rebuild on a few bits, but still plenty to be getting on with.
Just about ready to fit seats, this is what it looks like at the minute. in pic.
Only got one lid for the seat box but just gonna cut some Checker plate to make the other 2.
Now what do others do ? should I be putting some kind of Carpeting or something around and on top of the seat box before fitting the seats, or just bolt them on as it is.?
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Put an isolator between the seat rails and the seat box. PVC tape, Neoprene foam, DPC, anything to stop the 2 metals touching.

I would carpet the whole seatbox if doing another rebuild. The noise that travels up through the seatbox can be ridiculous at motorway speeds.
 
Cut carefully around the seat runners, but make sure you put carpet over the seat box lids, it will muffle noise. I'd also suggest covering the seat box with 3mm closed cell foam before you lay the carpet, to really help muffle noise.
 
Thanks Got a bit of an Idea now. Just a thought while Im in there, Reverse light switch and Diff Lock, think I will add some wires to the connectors on them so I don't have to lift seats ect to get back in. Will just run them through to engine bay and figure out where to connect them when I get to that stage.
 

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border said:
Thanks Got a bit of an Idea now. Just a thought while Im in there, Reverse light switch and Diff Lock, think I will add some wires to the connectors on them so I don't have to lift seats ect to get back in. Will just run them through to engine bay and figure out where to connect them when I get to that stage.
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They should connect to the chassis loom that goes from the bulkhead loom back to the rear light clusters.
 
mick 1986 said:
They should connect to the chassis loom that goes from the bulkhead loom back to the rear light clusters.
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Thanks will find them when the time comes. Ned to order new Reverse switch, took this one out and looks knackered, unless I give it a good clean up.
 
Top tip: while you have easy access to the reverse light and diff lock light wiring, stick some great big labels on the wires - as it's hard to tell the colours apart if you get a fault down the lines. Wide masking tape with big felt tip marker will do the job.
 
border said:
Whats the best / cheapest sound proofing, this looks OK https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5M-Roll-...765579?hash=item3d5303d6cb:g:62YAAOSwIaFZL9K2
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Ideally you need a bitumen high mass soundproofing layer first, and then sound deadening foam like that on the top. There may be cheaper alternatives than SilentCoat which is what I used, but I can't speak for how good they are. SC is worth every penny in my book. You can get 2mm https://www.deadening.co.uk/products/silent-coat-2mm-deadening-mat or 4mm https://www.deadening.co.uk/products/silent-coat-extra-4mm-mat. For the sake of a few extra quid I would go for the thicker one every time. How much you need depends on how much of the surface you cover - again I would cover everything in sight, and you will be amazed at the difference in noise levels.
 
flounderbout said:
Ideally you need a bitumen high mass soundproofing layer first, and then sound deadening foam like that on the top. There may be cheaper alternatives than SilentCoat which is what I used, but I can't speak for how good they are. SC is worth every penny in my book. You can get 2mm https://www.deadening.co.uk/products/silent-coat-2mm-deadening-mat or 4mm https://www.deadening.co.uk/products/silent-coat-extra-4mm-mat. For the sake of a few extra quid I would go for the thicker one every time. How much you need depends on how much of the surface you cover - again I would cover everything in sight, and you will be amazed at the difference in noise levels.
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NB looking at those links again the bulk packs shown are for 3.75 sq m for the 2mm and 2.15 sq m for the 4mm. So not only is the 4mm more expensive, but it doesn't go as far. If you are on a tight budget the 2mm will stretch a lot further per buck. The difference between nothing and 2mm is massive. I couldn't honestly tell you how much extra benefit you would get from 4mm, and there is presumably a fairly rapdily diminishing return.

The same goes for foam thickness the thicker you go the more it costs, and whether the increased benefits from a bit of extra thickness are worth it depends on your budget. You probably want at least a 6mm foam, but you can go for a 10mm or a 12mm. However with the foam an additional thing to take into account the thicker you go the more it interferes with the fit of any fitted carpeting, and also the smooth running of the seats (unless you have seat risers)...
 
Just got a load of this stuff, its used in-between concrete foundations or something like that. Anyway its really thick strong stuff , not sure what to stick it in place with though.
 

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border said:
Just got a load of this stuff, its used in-between concrete foundations or something like that. Anyway its really thick strong stuff , not sure what to stick it in place with though.
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Go into Bescol, ask for black Stixall. It’s brilliant stuff and should stick that to anything inside the cab. I would be looking more at something Tigerseal, or equivalent, for external use though.
 
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