Re: indicator cancelling thingamebob

On or around Thu, 09 Dec 2004 16:42:07 +0000, Mr.Nice.
<mr.nice@*nospam*clara.co.uk> enlightened us thusly:

>the thing, whatever it is, that cancells the indicators seems to be
>out of alignment, it seems too prompt at cancelling one way and
>doesn't usually cancel the other way.
>
>where is this wossit? and how do I get to it and adjust it?

I think you'll find it's a metal bit on the back of the steering wheel, and
can be adjusted, on the 110. I have memories of removing the one on mine -
mostly, I find SCI to be a pain more than a blessing - they either cancel at
the wrong time or don't at the right time.

The best ones were the very old ones on series vehicles, which had a little
rubber wheel which rotated on the steering column and gradually wound the
indicator off. That didn't rely on being in the right place to trigger it.

"Austin Shackles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On or around Thu, 09 Dec 2004 16:42:07 +0000, Mr.Nice.
> <mr.nice@*nospam*clara.co.uk> enlightened us thusly:
>
> >the thing, whatever it is, that cancells the indicators seems to be
> >out of alignment, it seems too prompt at cancelling one way and
> >doesn't usually cancel the other way.
> >
> >where is this wossit? and how do I get to it and adjust it?
>
> I think you'll find it's a metal bit on the back of the steering wheel,
and
> can be adjusted, on the 110. I have memories of removing the one on
mine -
> mostly, I find SCI to be a pain more than a blessing - they either cancel
at
> the wrong time or don't at the right time.
>
> The best ones were the very old ones on series vehicles, which had a
little
> rubber wheel which rotated on the steering column and gradually wound the
> indicator off. That didn't rely on being in the right place to trigger it.
>

Mines got a brand new lucas switch on it and works ace.
A peg on the steering wheel locates in a blue plastic collar on the switch
that operates the self canceland has to be centeralised.
If the position of the wheel hasnt changed then theres prolly sumat wrong
with the switch (worn) mine was £50+ the ****part ones are crap £20+.

On or around Fri, 10 Dec 2004 07:49:10 -0000, "George Spigot"
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>Mines got a brand new lucas switch on it and works ace.
>A peg on the steering wheel locates in a blue plastic collar on the switch
>that operates the self canceland has to be centeralised.
>If the position of the wheel hasnt changed then theres prolly sumat wrong
>with the switch (worn) mine was £50+ the ****part ones are crap £20+.
>

personally, I'd disable the thing altogether and remember to turn 'em off.


and just a minor point - I get a bit miffed at people making derogatory
noises about cheap pattern parts. You've just said that the britpart one is
about 40% of the price of the genuine lucas, yet complain when it's not so
good. I've had quite a few cheap britpart bits and yes, there are the some
that aren't so good and the odd ones that are defective, however, in the
latter case you have a clear claim against the seller to provide a
replacement that works or a refund. As to the lower quality, well, if it's
only 40% of the price what do you expect?

In my opinion the cheap parts are OK; I don't expect OE quality unless I'm
paying OE price.

On or around Fri, 10 Dec 2004 18:17:31 +0000, Mr.Nice.
<mr.nice@*nospam*clara.co.uk> enlightened us thusly:

>I pulled the cover off the steering colum today and there is a black
>bit on the back of the steering wheel that looks like it engages with
>a blue plastic thing that in turn cancels the switch.
>from sitting there and fannying about for 5 minutes I thin kthe
>steering wheel may be 1 full turn out as far as the cancelling
>mechanism is concerned. not sure what to do about that without
>disconnecting the steering maybe? it's power steering by the way.

erm... it can;t be a full turn out. might be 1/2 a turn out. The wheel
should be "upright" with the wheels straight ahead. I've an idea that the
thing doesn't engage in the way that it looks like it ought to. ISTR the
bit on the steering wheel was a separate metal bit on mine, which pinged off
into obscurity at some point. I didn't mind as I was trying to disable it.

>
>I may replace that switch as the horn bit is missing and the horn has
>been rewired (by a previous owner) to a ford badge button on the dash
>(a sense of humour then).

hehe.

"Austin Shackles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On or around Fri, 10 Dec 2004 07:49:10 -0000, "George Spigot"
> <[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>
> >Mines got a brand new lucas switch on it and works ace.
> >A peg on the steering wheel locates in a blue plastic collar on the
switch
> >that operates the self canceland has to be centeralised.
> >If the position of the wheel hasnt changed then theres prolly sumat wrong
> >with the switch (worn) mine was £50+ the ****part ones are crap £20+.
> >
>
> personally, I'd disable the thing altogether and remember to turn 'em off.
>
>
> and just a minor point - I get a bit miffed at people making derogatory
> noises about cheap pattern parts. You've just said that the britpart one
is
> about 40% of the price of the genuine lucas, yet complain when it's not so
> good.

2 in a row that dint even make it to the vehicle! got fed up and bought a
spensiv 1.

I've had quite a few cheap britpart bits and yes, there are the some
> that aren't so good and the odd ones that are defective, however, in the
> latter case you have a clear claim against the seller to provide a
> replacement that works or a refund. As to the lower quality, well, if
it's
> only 40% of the price what do you expect?
>
> In my opinion the cheap parts are OK; I don't expect OE quality unless I'm
> paying OE price.
>
Most parts are ok I bought some hinges, rear door, window,door
seals,locks,seals, gaskets, but some things are best bought genuine or at
least better quality than the cheapest ****parts.

For instance I bought some cheepo rear shoes I think they were about £7
cheaper than Mintex, but after using them for a couple of months a whole new
set of problems have appeared brakes sticking on in reverse from cold for
one.
I'm ready to buy some mintex shoes and throw these ones in the bin, can't be
arsed taking them back.

Austin Shackles wrote:

> On or around Fri, 10 Dec 2004 07:49:10 -0000, "George Spigot"
> <[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>
> > Mines got a brand new lucas switch on it and works ace.
> > A peg on the steering wheel locates in a blue plastic collar on the
> > switch that operates the self canceland has to be centeralised.
> > If the position of the wheel hasnt changed then theres prolly sumat
> > wrong with the switch (worn) mine was £50+ the ****part ones are
> > crap £20+.
> >
>
> personally, I'd disable the thing altogether and remember to turn 'em
> off.
>
>
> and just a minor point - I get a bit miffed at people making
> derogatory noises about cheap pattern parts. You've just said that
> the britpart one is about 40% of the price of the genuine lucas, yet
> complain when it's not so good. I've had quite a few cheap britpart
> bits and yes, there are the some that aren't so good and the odd ones
> that are defective, however, in the latter case you have a clear
> claim against the seller to provide a replacement that works or a
> refund. As to the lower quality, well, if it's only 40% of the price
> what do you expect?
>
> In my opinion the cheap parts are OK; I don't expect OE quality
> unless I'm paying OE price.

I think that's the right attitude. You also need to remember that with
some pattern parts, you might need to make the odd 'adjustment' as you
fit it because it's probably been designed by copying a genuine part,
not from the original drawings, so the pattern 'middle of tolerance'
might be some way from the original part.

Sometimes however, the pattern part makers let themselves down a bit.
Just bought a Britpart CV joint for my Rangie - it fitted OK although I
had to mess about a little with the shim on the hub to get the circlip
on - but what pee'd me off was that the joint was full of swarf. I
checked for that and washed it out, cleaned it up and made sure it was
OK before fitting it, but would most people think to do that?

It's just slipshod to send out 'precision' parts with machining swarf
trapped inside.

On or around 11 Dec 2004 11:03:44 GMT, "Simon Atkinson" <[email protected]>
enlightened us thusly:

>Austin Shackles wrote:
>
>> and just a minor point - I get a bit miffed at people making
>> derogatory noises about cheap pattern parts. You've just said that
>> the britpart one is about 40% of the price of the genuine lucas, yet
>> complain when it's not so good. I've had quite a few cheap britpart
>> bits and yes, there are the some that aren't so good and the odd ones
>> that are defective, however, in the latter case you have a clear
>> claim against the seller to provide a replacement that works or a
>> refund. As to the lower quality, well, if it's only 40% of the price
>> what do you expect?
>>
>> In my opinion the cheap parts are OK; I don't expect OE quality
>> unless I'm paying OE price.
>
>I think that's the right attitude. You also need to remember that with
>some pattern parts, you might need to make the odd 'adjustment' as you
>fit it because it's probably been designed by copying a genuine part,
>not from the original drawings, so the pattern 'middle of tolerance'
>might be some way from the original part.

a good point. Such things annoy me slightly, but don't worry me provided I
can make it work. I had a light switch in this category - iffy contact
between one terminal and another, which are rivetted together. soldering it
solved this. However, the method of construction of the original part is
identical, so the only advantage in buying OE in that case would have
(possibly) been better QC which didn't let an iffy one out in the first
place. However, when fitted, it worked, and thus would have passed a QC
test anyway.

>Sometimes however, the pattern part makers let themselves down a bit.
>Just bought a Britpart CV joint for my Rangie - it fitted OK although I
>had to mess about a little with the shim on the hub to get the circlip
>on - but what pee'd me off was that the joint was full of swarf. I
>checked for that and washed it out, cleaned it up and made sure it was
>OK before fitting it, but would most people think to do that?
>
>It's just slipshod to send out 'precision' parts with machining swarf
>trapped inside.

ah, now I agree there. careless. I'd write to 'em and complain, might be
worth a quid or so, even though you've solved it. At the least, it might
help avoid someone else suffering similarly.

Austin Shackles wrote:

> On or around 11 Dec 2004 11:03:44 GMT, "Simon Atkinson"
> <[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>
> > Austin Shackles wrote:
> >
> >> and just a minor point - I get a bit miffed at people making
> >> derogatory noises about cheap pattern parts. You've just said that
> >> the britpart one is about 40% of the price of the genuine lucas,
> yet >> complain when it's not so good. I've had quite a few cheap
> britpart >> bits and yes, there are the some that aren't so good and
> the odd ones >> that are defective, however, in the latter case you
> have a clear >> claim against the seller to provide a replacement
> that works or a >> refund. As to the lower quality, well, if it's
> only 40% of the price >> what do you expect?
> >>
> >> In my opinion the cheap parts are OK; I don't expect OE quality
> >> unless I'm paying OE price.
> >
> > I think that's the right attitude. You also need to remember that
> > with some pattern parts, you might need to make the odd
> > 'adjustment' as you fit it because it's probably been designed by
> > copying a genuine part, not from the original drawings, so the
> > pattern 'middle of tolerance' might be some way from the original
> > part.
>
> a good point. Such things annoy me slightly, but don't worry me
> provided I can make it work.

That's the way I look at it - On a Series Landy there is usally about
3" tolerance on most bits anyway.

On the motorbike I am a bit more concerned and tend to use most parts
as OE anyway - less room for making things fit, and potentially much
worse for me if it goes tits up.

I had a light switch in this category -
> iffy contact between one terminal and another, which are rivetted
> together. soldering it solved this. However, the method of
> construction of the original part is identical, so the only advantage
> in buying OE in that case would have (possibly) been better QC which
> didn't let an iffy one out in the first place. However, when fitted,
> it worked, and thus would have passed a QC test anyway.

True enough - also the OE one the rivets may be more expensive leading
to a tighter fit in the first place.


> > Sometimes however, the pattern part makers let themselves down a
> > bit. Just bought a Britpart CV joint for my Rangie - it fitted OK
> > although I had to mess about a little with the shim on the hub to
> > get the circlip on - but what pee'd me off was that the joint was
> > full of swarf. I checked for that and washed it out, cleaned it up
> > and made sure it was OK before fitting it, but would most people
> > think to do that?
> >
> > It's just slipshod to send out 'precision' parts with machining
> > swarf trapped inside.
>
> ah, now I agree there. careless. I'd write to 'em and complain,
> might be worth a quid or so, even though you've solved it. At the
> least, it might help avoid someone else suffering similarly.

Although they might just tell me to sod off - as my contract is with
the supplier... Mr Beamends are you listening? Not knocking Richard at
all - his prices are keen and delivery was as quick as promised.