Re con through sump

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

Oldboy

Member
Posts
15
Location
sussex coast
Hi new member, just got 1999se 4.0 and its got conrod through sump :doh: but still runs all be it badly. What will i be looking for when I strip it down.
 
Hi new member, just got 1999se 4.0 and its got conrod through sump :doh: but still runs all be it badly. What will i be looking for when I strip it down.

Probably a knackered block where the rod has flailed around:doh:. If the the rod is still there you are going to do more damage if you run it:doh::doh::doh:
 
thought so have told guy not to start it again and I will trailer home. Hope to strip down and repair myself. With help from you guys that is.
 
there may have been quite a lot of damage and the blocks are more lard than metal in characteristic, at least the ones i have seen are!!! lol

the only way to find out is to strip it and have a look, its a piece of **** to strip. during the course of today i have stripped a v8 block out of the rangey and rebuilt the new block/engine and got it back in. i didnt really get going till 11 this morning and, even though theres no bolts in the gearbox/engine (i only located it to keep the torque converter in place) i should imagine another day and it will be running ready for oil change/service and coolant after its all been checked for water tight and oil tight!!
 
there may have been quite a lot of damage and the blocks are more lard than metal in characteristic, at least the ones i have seen are!!! lol

the only way to find out is to strip it and have a look, its a piece of **** to strip. during the course of today i have stripped a v8 block out of the rangey and rebuilt the new block/engine and got it back in. i didnt really get going till 11 this morning and, even though theres no bolts in the gearbox/engine (i only located it to keep the torque converter in place) i should imagine another day and it will be running ready for oil change/service and coolant after its all been checked for water tight and oil tight!!

go gav go.:clap2::clap2::car:
 
more like fingers crossed, third block lucky john!!! i have a good feeling about this one!!



make sure you have got the eka code when you get the car, it will save you alot of grief later on!! also it may be worth your while getting the whole block linered or even another new/linered block, then you can put some of the block hassles out of your mind.
 
Picked up RR guy gave me con rod as well. Just started engine out would appreciate some advice about engine gearbox seperation eg. torq convertor holding back etc, read posts from Gav etc but would like clarification if poss. Ta. RR is in top condition otherwise inside and out.
 
its a piece of ****, asuming you have got clearance at the front by taking waterpump off and rad out, all mountings are undone, bolts to gearbox/bellhousing off and the torq conv bolts out(its fiddly but yr able to do it with the smallest socket you can get in there)

if the heads are off its easier, prop the bonnet to the vertical position, there are clips at the hinges to the bonnet but you have to remove the gas struts on each side(this bit is fun cos its tricky to do and can end in trapped arms as i have done)

the next bit depends on if you have a ramp and block or your on the floor with a hoist, you will need to wedge the torq converter in place, i used a broom handle but anything will be fine, so long as its not gonna break or damage the torq. you then just need to pull the block up a little, you can jack the g/b a bit to give it help, and forward, dont be scared to give it some wiggling but i found it wasnt required!
 
cheers Gav just started raining so will have to wait a bit as i am doing it in the drive-way. Assume you put stick through same hole that you use to access torq bolts.
 
there should be a round plate with 3 bolts on the bottom of the gearbox next to the bellhousing,thats where i secured the torque convertor on mine
 
Well engine out and stripped heads appear ok they are in for testing as I write this. Block is buggered, bore walls are cracked and brocken in two cylinders one piston buried in side of bore. So the man he say cant do new short block best answer. Think personally something is amiss with the engine as its only done 45000mls. as you can imagine when I contacted the garage who supplied and fitted it the didnt seem that interested. So I am now trying to find the best price for a 4.0thor short block. If anyone has any leads let me know. :doh:
 
Back
Top