rc racing

anyone know much about rc racing 1/10 scale

Nope but these peeps do..

RC Racing

I used to be head referee for 1/10 electric off-road National series .. and raced for about 20 odd years or so ..

not much about the racing side, but i do have 3 1/10 scale and a retro tamiya lunch box

Paul D said:

I used to be head referee for 1/10 electric off-road National series .. and raced for about 20 odd years or so ..

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Yeah but do ya know anything about it??

redhand said:

Yeah but do ya know anything about it??

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A little, though I haven't raced for about 5 years .. I still have a couple of trucks and cars left ..

Paul D said:

I used to be head referee for 1/10 electric off-road National series .. and raced for about 20 odd years or so ..

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my boys have just started doing it ,we bought a tc4 club racer which came with diff in the rear and fixed at the front ,which ive now swapped as we went through £40 worth of front drive shafts in one night ,would you think a diff at rear too would be better ,to start with plus i could do with learning a bit more

Are they dog-bone style driveshafts? If so put a small rubber o-ring in the drive cup, makes a world of difference. They wear quickly 'cos they can move a lot, the o-ring allows more controlled movement and stops them vibrating ..

Paul D said:

Are they dog-bone style driveshafts? If so put a small rubber o-ring in the drive cup, makes a world of difference. They wear quickly 'cos they can move a lot, the o-ring allows more controlled movement and stops them vibrating ..

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more like a golf t with single pin ,diff in front has stopped front shafts breaking ,vut wasnt sure whether it would be more controllable with diff in rear as well as front rather than the now fixed in rear

Ah right, 'proper' CV joints almost .. Yes an open diff in rear would help a lot, and/or a slipper clutch.

clutch ? thought perhaps fixed rear might make back end more likely to slide ,but it came with one fixed so presumed perhaps better

jamesmartin said:

clutch ?

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Don't underestimate the space required to use it they just don't stop

I've always found the nitros too fiddly. I got an fg marder 1/6th with 29 cc engine in it

fanatic said:

Don't underestimate the space required to use it they just don't stop

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youve lost me ?

The motor pinion drives a larger gear which generally drives a driveshaft .. the larger gear can (if they're available) have a slipper clutch fitted, basically two teflon or similar plates which act just like a clutch but can have an infinitely variable pressure put on them to increase drive or loosen it .. This helps stop extremes of power, such as when landing off a jump with motor running flat out, causing drive-line issues. Bit like when gunning a Landrover to get out of a hole when one wheel touches down at high speed and can strip splines/half-shafts etc. The slipper 'cushions' the system from shocks which can strip dogbones/cv's ..

They can really help when learning because you can set them to slip more easily. When more experienced you set them tighter to get more drive.

I have a ripmax fixer upper that I bought for £20 4x4 race car and a full shaft driven monster truck with 2 speeds

Nitro rc need space as they go fast very quickly and single disc brake just either takes ages to stop or they lock up and slide

thanks ill have alook at that it makes good sense ,why would it have fixed drive on one axle

jamesmartin said:

thanks ill have alook at that it makes good sense ,why would it have fixed drive on one axle

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Dunno, I don't think it does standard, maybe it's not been built correctly.

First thing I ever do with a new car is rebuild diffs so they're running properly free, generally I throw the stock bearings and use Tungsten carbide with decent diff lube. I used to run Associated, Losi and Schumacher cars mainly, but preferred schumacher shock oils, and Associated diff grease.

jamesmartin said:

thanks ill have alook at that it makes good sense ,why would it have fixed drive on one axle

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look at racing quads and there is your answer-back slides.

Due to the lack of weight they will just slip a wheel instead of wind up.
If you post a picture or have a model then their should be a spares catalog available to examine what you have v what it should be if second hand.

If the engine is new it will be ABC linered and it is best run with top off as Rich as possible as it is ring less piston and they do nip up till run in sometimes.
Also make sure you have a glow start with indicator-nothing worse than it won't start and you have not realised the glowstart is flat.

fanatic said:

look at racing quads and there is your answer-back slides.

Due to the lack of weight they will just slip a wheel instead of wind up

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But that loses grip and turns in and isn't at all user ('specially newbie) friendly unless you're experienced.