Range Rover P38 Engine Change

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generalfarfar said:
Ok, thinking of buying the blackbox.

Have just one question.

My left front window (my drivers) doesn't go up or down, but it is set.
I also remembered that if you do the EKA code from the drivers door and then open the drivers door after 2 faults you wont get locked out, but I've done that and I get the lockout again and again. What could this be due to?

Regards
Click to expand...

Do you get door open warning on dash when it is opened. Try doing it and switching ignition on and off then trying again. If you can't get the EKA to work and it's the correct one it would suggest you have a fault on the system. The diagnostics you propose to get maybe your best option. You can guess for ever.
 
Last edited:
wammers said:
Do you get door open warning on dash when it is opened. Try doing it and switching ignition on and off then trying again. If you can't get the EKA to work and it's the correct one it would suggest you have a fault on the system. The diagnostics you propose to get maybe your best option. You can guess for ever.
Click to expand...

No warning, did get warning about the window, but the windows doesn't go up or down so I just played with the button till it set itself.
 
generalfarfar said:
No warning, did get warning about the window, but the windows doesn't go up or down so I just played with the button till it set itself.
Click to expand...

If you don't get the door open warning when it is opened then that is possibly why you keep getting locked out of EKA input. That is also the reason you cannot input it. Lock unit micro switch duff. New lock unit needed.
 
No news as I have hadn't worked with the car but was wondering whether some had have the same problem?
Fault door lock mechanism?
As previous the car doesn't say whether the drivers door is open or not, but now thinking I also removed the bonnet sensor and that wont also say if the bonnet is open or not..

Really scratching my head on this one. Thanks for the help!
 
generalfarfar said:
No news as I have hadn't worked with the car but was wondering whether some had have the same problem?
Fault door lock mechanism?
As previous the car doesn't say whether the drivers door is open or not, but now thinking I also removed the bonnet sensor and that wont also say if the bonnet is open or not..

Really scratching my head on this one. Thanks for the help!
Click to expand...

Won't tell you its open unless you start driving away! IIRC
 
My mistake it said that the drivers door was open and the central locking is "working", left side will lock but not the right.

Opened the drivers lock and picked out the the thing that recognizes if the door is locked or not, see picture http://s23.postimg.org/nl10szlqz/bild.jpg


Was thinking if anyone knew the combination this work with? So I can input the EKA code from there.

Regards
 
GOT IT STARTED!

used the spare key, it seemed to have been in it's memory.

Get warning everytime I change gear from neutral. Have removed that extra slot 11, know why?
Think a EAS Hose went also, heard like a bang and the car went down.
 
Still getting neutral warning.
Getting ABS warning also
Bought a lock unit also, but checked first the spare key and it worked so maybe no need of the lock unit.

Time to maybe invest in one diagnostics tool.

That bang sound was due to the Ballon on the back right wheel. It had gone out from it's position, now fitted good.

http://s12.postimg.org/7bt056kx9/image.jpg - picture of the car.

the car also overheats, going to check for air in the radiator.

Regards
 
generalfarfar said:
Still getting neutral warning.
Getting ABS warning also
Bought a lock unit also, but checked first the spare key and it worked so maybe no need of the lock unit.

Time to maybe invest in one diagnostics tool.

That bang sound was due to the Ballon on the back right wheel. It had gone out from it's position, now fitted good.

http://s12.postimg.org/7bt056kx9/image.jpg - picture of the car.

the car also overheats, going to check for air in the radiator.

Regards
Click to expand...
Quick update

ABS - warning goes away by it self after driving a bit.
Overheating was due to air.

Getting select neutral message on the dash and have read on the forum that it could be the ecu (don't think so because slot 11 works + all gears work but low ratio), the connectors (going to check), the motor (also going to check)

In all really satisfied with the car, really a car with a soul ;)

In other news, was about to clean the spare wheel trunk in the back and had put the interior board up, as I was cleaning, the board went down and hit me on the head, bleed a bit. So you could say, blood sweat and tears (a bit) hehe!
 
Hi again,

Still getting neutral message on the display but when I change gear from hi to low, it recognize that and the blinking change from hi to low, is it still the ratio motor that needs change or could it be a fuse?

In another notice the diesel hose from filter to Engine has air in it, have read that It's the diesel pump that is pumping air, was wondering if perhaps you just could change seal instead of changing the pump?

Hoping for answer thanks!! :tea:
 
generalfarfar said:
Hi again,

Still getting neutral message on the display but when I change gear from hi to low, it recognize that and the blinking change from hi to low, is it still the ratio motor that needs change or could it be a fuse?

In another notice the diesel hose from filter to Engine has air in it, have read that It's the diesel pump that is pumping air, was wondering if perhaps you just could change seal instead of changing the pump?

Hoping for answer thanks!! :tea:
Click to expand...
Not likely to be a fuse, may be the selector switch.

Air in the fuel line could be leak off pipes perished or O rings at the filter.
 
Datatek said:
Not likely to be a fuse, may be the selector switch.

Air in the fuel line could be leak off pipes perished or O rings at the filter.
Click to expand...

Ok thanks for that, will have a look again, I took up the car today and saw that one connector (see image: http://s24.postimg.org/3tw7nhko5/vaxel1.jpg ) was not attached, I connected it with it's connector, it was all wrapped up? Where does this connection go to?

Had also heard that one had same problem as me, indicators dont sound, neutral message, no sport or low range etc.. and he said that he found these connectors (http://s4.postimg.org/voc2iqqal/vaxel2.jpg) all greased up and when he cleaned them it worked again. Mine was also greased up, I tried cleaning them but it didn't work, did I perhaps clean them bad? there's was still some corrsison on the conncection on the end, didn't go with corrosion cleaner or sand paper or tools.

Did a full tank now regarding the pump so now bubbles now but when they come up again I will check the orings and pipes.

Thanks!

edit: is the two cables right or do I need to switch place on them?
 
generalfarfar said:
Ok thanks for that, will have a look again, I took up the car today and saw that one connector (see image: http://s24.postimg.org/3tw7nhko5/vaxel1.jpg ) was not attached, I connected it with it's connector, it was all wrapped up? Where does this connection go to?

Had also heard that one had same problem as me, indicators dont sound, neutral message, no sport or low range etc.. and he said that he found these connectors (http://s4.postimg.org/voc2iqqal/vaxel2.jpg) all greased up and when he cleaned them it worked again. Mine was also greased up, I tried cleaning them but it didn't work, did I perhaps clean them bad? there's was still some corrsison on the conncection on the end, didn't go with corrosion cleaner or sand paper or tools.

Did a full tank now regarding the pump so now bubbles now but when they come up again I will check the orings and pipes.

Thanks!

edit: is the two cables right or do I need to switch place on them?
Click to expand...
The first one looks like the transfer box shift motor connection, if it is, it has probably been disconnected because the motor is seized. That will burn the transfer box ECU if you try to select low range.
The second one looks like the gearbox ouput speed sensor, not really sure though.
 
Datatek said:
The first one looks like the transfer box shift motor connection, if it is, it has probably been disconnected because the motor is seized. That will burn the transfer box ECU if you try to select low range.
The second one looks like the gearbox ouput speed sensor, not really sure though.
Click to expand...

Cleaned the connections and hammered a bit on the transferbox and it's working now? Read somewhere that someone had the same issued and he just hammered on it and it began to work lol.

Sport mode, manual mode, indicator sound, all working now...

Thanks for the help Datatek!!! Really the best LR forum this one.
 
generalfarfar said:
Cleaned the connections and hammered a bit on the transferbox and it's working now? Read somewhere that someone had the same issued and he just hammered on it and it began to work lol.

Sport mode, manual mode, indicator sound, all working now...

Thanks for the help Datatek!!! Really the best LR forum this one.
Click to expand...
Glad you got it sorted:)
 
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