Radius arm mod, where?

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IamRobbie

Well-Known Member
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2,800
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Derbyshire, j28 M1
I remember reading somewhere on here that you can send your front radius arms off somewhere for them to modify them instead of buying new...

Does anyone know the website?

I can't for the life of me remember who it was.

I have a 2inch suspension lift on my 90, it has HD rear trailing arms for a 2" lift but I fancied getting the fronts done.
 
Ere ya go ..
 

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They are only heated up once (at each end) i do believe so they don't become brittle etc. If they would be dangerous is anyway they wouldn't offer the service.
 
It's not nessesarliy making it brittle that's the issue, the arms are forged so that the stress levels in the material are consistent and help to maintain the strength of the arm, heating up a section of the arm and then bending it will upset the balance and may lead to stress concentrations which in turn will lead to premature failure.
 
It's not nessesarliy making it brittle that's the issue, the arms are forged so that the stress levels in the material are consistent and help to maintain the strength of the arm, heating up a section of the arm and then bending it will upset the balance and may lead to stress concentrations which in turn will lead to premature failure.

You dont really know much about Gwyn lewis do ya?

Google him and i think you will find he is a well respected member of the 4x4 community, if i am honest and he told me i could walk on water with his stuff i would believe him and have a go. (of course i would sink being a fatty but that isnt the issue here)
 
Yep another happy Gwyn Lewis customer here, the thing i liked about him was he is very free giving with information and he doesn't try to sell you something you don't need.
 
It's not nessesarliy making it brittle that's the issue, the arms are forged so that the stress levels in the material are consistent and help to maintain the strength of the arm, heating up a section of the arm and then bending it will upset the balance and may lead to stress concentrations which in turn will lead to premature failure.
No forging makes sure the grain structure is correct and the are then left to cool naturaly which has a normalising action.
Reheating and bending will not effect grain integrity think of large forgings with multiple re heats to get to final shape!!
 
No forging makes sure the grain structure is correct and the are then left to cool naturaly which has a normalising action.

Reheating and bending will not effect grain integrity think of large forgings with multiple re heats to get to final shape!!


Fair enough, I was just putting the point forward after completing an assignment on fatigue life of materials and what affects it. I still feel that messing with the original forging will affect it but clearly not enough to make any difference as the satisfied customers have proven. I suppose done professionally it can be made to work. I would never touch a home modified one though.
 
Fair enough, I was just putting the point forward after completing an assignment on fatigue life of materials and what affects it. I still feel that messing with the original forging will affect it but clearly not enough to make any difference as the satisfied customers have proven. I suppose done professionally it can be made to work. I would never touch a home modified one though.

The problems with materials that are normally malleable failing when bent is normally when they have been cold formed for example extrusions ,cold forged/formed(cant remember the correct name) etc when the actual initial forming process has left high internal stresses.
As far as messing with forgings I agree if the steel grade and final heat treat are unknown it can be foolish and also taking the actual shape outside of the design parameters is dangerous.
I think the steel in radius arms is fine as the alteration is small and ive seen them bent in knots after road collisions and Ive seen no visual cracking.

I finished my engineering degree in '94 so luckily assignments are a thing of the very distant past:D
 
The problems with materials that are normally malleable failing when bent is normally when they have been cold formed for example extrusions ,cold forged/formed(cant remember the correct name) etc when the actual initial forming process has left high internal stresses.

As far as messing with forgings I agree if the steel grade and final heat treat are unknown it can be foolish and also taking the actual shape outside of the design parameters is dangerous.

I think the steel in radius arms is fine as the alteration is small and ive seen them bent in knots after road collisions and Ive seen no visual cracking.



I finished my engineering degree in '94 so luckily assignments are a thing of the very distant past:D


I suppose Gwyn must be fairly good with his material and heat treatment specs. It's not really a large collision which would worry me it's the idea of it failing prematurely after a few years due to accelerated fatigue that bothers me (I don't really intend on selling mine ever after I've finished)

Fortunately I only have to put up with another few months of assignments then I'll be free of them for good :)
 
Seems i opened up a can of worms lol..

I only have a 2inch lift and its recommended that i just have one end bent it says, Im just trying to get my truck to stop puling to the right when i left off the accelerator lol..
 
Seems i opened up a can of worms lol..

I only have a 2inch lift and its recommended that i just have one end bent it says, Im just trying to get my truck to stop puling to the right when i left off the accelerator lol..
check trailing/radius arm bushes at both ends, normally the problem.
 
check trailing/radius arm bushes at both ends, normally the problem.

Found out what it was last night while tightening up the rear nuts on my wheel, one of the trailing arms weren't as tight as it needed to be, also old bush where as the other was changed 2 months ago but we didnt bother changing the other, I've got the other and I'm going to change it at some point!
 
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