Replacement fuel tank 1986 90

Hi folks.

1986 ex MOD 2.5 NA diesel needs a new fuel tank. 1986/1987 seems to be a cut off year from the one hole to two hole tanks, NRC9225 to ESR2242. Various listings on ebay claim different years for each type. Craddocks state the NCR9225 fits up to VIN 24332 which includes mine, but I don't know how accurate the info on their website is. I don't know which type I need, and don't have regular access to the vehicle so can't just have a look at the existing one unfortunately. I was hoping to source the replacement, give it an extra coat of protective paint, then swap them over in one go.
Some of the NCR9225 look like the ESR2242 but with the second hole not punched out
View attachment 292127

The other looks like it might be original. Anyone had any experience of which is the most durable?

View attachment 292128

Couple of other questions as well please folks: Are the two holes for a sender unit and some type of uplift pump? If so, I guess the one hole tank will have an external lift pump somewhere instead? (Vaguely remember there was something I couldn't identify to the left of the engine block last time I got to see under the bonnet)
I will replace the sender unit anyway as the fuel gauge doesn't work, but will reuse an internal lift pump if I can - does anyone know if they are easy to remove and refit or do they tend to break?
Most of the tanks online seem to come with replacement gaskets and seals, but is there any other parts that would be sensible to order to make refitting easier? Don't know what condition the retaining bracket is in, might be rusted to hell.
Last off, Any suggestions for protective paint before fitting, I was thinking about a rubberised paint but think this might rip and peel off. Maybe a hard enamel?
Lots of questions in one post folks, but any suggestions or advice to some or all of them much appreciated.
Cheers

MattNoviceOwner said:

Hi folks.

1986 ex MOD 2.5 NA diesel needs a new fuel tank. 1986/1987 seems to be a cut off year from the one hole to two hole tanks, NRC9225 to ESR2242. Various listings on ebay claim different years for each type. Craddocks state the NCR9225 fits up to VIN 24332 which includes mine, but I don't know how accurate the info on their website is. I don't know which type I need, and don't have regular access to the vehicle so can't just have a look at the existing one unfortunately. I was hoping to source the replacement, give it an extra coat of protective paint, then swap them over in one go.
Some of the NCR9225 look like the ESR2242 but with the second hole not punched out
View attachment 292127

The other looks like it might be original. Anyone had any experience of which is the most durable?

View attachment 292128

Couple of other questions as well please folks: Are the two holes for a sender unit and some type of uplift pump? If so, I guess the one hole tank will have an external lift pump somewhere instead? (Vaguely remember there was something I couldn't identify to the left of the engine block last time I got to see under the bonnet)
I will replace the sender unit anyway as the fuel gauge doesn't work, but will reuse an internal lift pump if I can - does anyone know if they are easy to remove and refit or do they tend to break?
Most of the tanks online seem to come with replacement gaskets and seals, but is there any other parts that would be sensible to order to make refitting easier? Don't know what condition the retaining bracket is in, might be rusted to hell.
Last off, Any suggestions for protective paint before fitting, I was thinking about a rubberised paint but think this might rip and peel off. Maybe a hard enamel?
Lots of questions in one post folks, but any suggestions or advice to some or all of them much appreciated.
Cheers

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I would go with whichever is closest to what you have at the moment.

There is unlikely to be much difference in quality, as there is probably only one place that makes the tanks.

No idea about internal lift pumps, I thought Td5s were the first Defenders to have those, and they started almost 20 years later than that.
Replacing the sender and pick up pipes is a good idea, and they aren't a lot of money.

Cheers for the suggestion Turboman. Would be an easy decision if I could just take the old one off and see it, or even get underneath and have a look but it's stored miles away.

I'm not sure about the lift pump, I just wondered what the second hole was introduced for.

Agreed, replacing the pipes is probably a good idea come to think of it!

Much obliged

MattNoviceOwner said:

Cheers for the suggestion Turboman. Would be an easy decision if I could just take the old one off and see it, or even get underneath and have a look but it's stored miles away.

I'm not sure about the lift pump, I just wondered what the second hole was introduced for.

Agreed, replacing the pipes is probably a good idea come to think of it!

Much obliged

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Quite possible the same tank is used on other models, or even other vehicles altogether. Manufactureres were always keen to use existing parts where possible.

If it was me, I would be looking at what is there at the moment before ordering, even if it meant a special journey.
It would also give you a chance to spray some juice on the bracket fastenings, and maybe give them a few smacks with a hammer, soften them up.

My 1990 model has the two holes, one for the sender and other for fuel pickup and return.
Yours truck should have mechanical lift pump on engine block.
Replaced my tank last winter, Good coating of synthetic enamel [ Tractol ] Spray grease between tank and bottom plate where it is hard to paint.
You may need the funny bolt that holds the front of the tank and possibly the bracket it fits to. Mine was good to reuse but often it is rotten.

Heres how I (just) did mine ...

Removing driver side floor and the bulkhead to tub side rail makes for less of a fiddle.

Thanks for the suggestions gents. Miktdish, I had already read your thread when I was looking for answers before posting, useful info and excellent clear photos.

tottot, Well I've gona and had a look under the drivers seat. Even though my 90 is pre VIN 24332 its got the later two hole tank with the sender in the rear hole, looks like an up pipe in the other same as yours. There is a manual primer to the left of the engine block. Happy days, will order one up. Thanks for the suggestions for paint and greasing.

Turboman, weirdly the bracket and bolts look to be in pretty good condition, I had expected them to be rusted to sh*t. Wondering if the tank has already been replaced at some point. Juiced them up and tickled em with a pin hammer to tenderise the little b'stards a bit anyway.

The way it's fitted it does look tight to the inner side, but there looks to be a gap of about half an inch to the side rail. Might be a bit fiddly getting to the breather tube to undo it, but I can't see why the tank won't slide sideways up to the rail and then drop down away from the vehicle without to much fuss once the bolts are undone. Mind you, there is enough people on here with much more experience than me that all say it is a ball ache, so I'm not gonna get too confident just yet.....

Cheers for the replies folks

MattNoviceOwner said:

Thanks for the suggestions gents. Miktdish, I had already read your thread when I was looking for answers before posting, useful info and excellent clear photos.

tottot, Well I've gona and had a look under the drivers seat. Even though my 90 is pre VIN 24332 its got the later two hole tank with the sender in the rear hole, looks like an up pipe in the other same as yours. There is a manual primer to the left of the engine block. Happy days, will order one up. Thanks for the suggestions for paint and greasing.

Turboman, weirdly the bracket and bolts look to be in pretty good condition, I had expected them to be rusted to sh*t. Wondering if the tank has already been replaced at some point. Juiced them up and tickled em with a pin hammer to tenderise the little b'stards a bit anyway.

The way it's fitted it does look tight to the inner side, but there looks to be a gap of about half an inch to the side rail. Might be a bit fiddly getting to the breather tube to undo it, but I can't see why the tank won't slide sideways up to the rail and then drop down away from the vehicle without to much fuss once the bolts are undone. Mind you, there is enough people on here with much more experience than me that all say it is a ball ache, so I'm not gonna get too confident just yet.....

Cheers for the replies folks

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I suspect it will already have had one tank change, which is why the brackets and bolts are OK, and probably why the tank is the later type.

Can be done with side rail on and perhaps loose at one end, just less fuss with it out the way.

Turboman said:

Replacing the sender and pick up pipes is a good idea, and they aren't a lot of money.

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Hey Turboman - thought you meant the rubber hoses. Why do you reckon replacing the metal pick up pipes? Arn't they just plain steel tubes? Do they rot inside?
Cheers

MattNoviceOwner said:

Hey Turboman - thought you meant the rubber hoses. Why do you reckon replacing the metal pick up pipes? Arn't they just plain steel tubes? Do they rot inside?
Cheers

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Well known to rust through, inside and outside the tank, block up, and cause trouble.
The rubber hoses go on for a long time, but changing them does no harm. I wouldn't change them unless they are cracking, the quality of new ones isn't always very good.

Turboman said:

Well known to rust through, inside and outside the tank, block up, and cause trouble.
The rubber hoses go on for a long time, but changing them does no harm. I wouldn't change them unless they are cracking, the quality of new ones isn't always very good.

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Top advice Turboman. My instinct would have been to replace the rubber but reuse the metal.
Cheers

MattNoviceOwner said:

Top advice Turboman. My instinct would have been to replace the rubber but reuse the metal.
Cheers

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The main issue with Landrovers is rust, and dissimilar metal corrosion.
Metal parts rust or corrode, plastic or rubber ones don't.

tottot said:

Can be done with side rail on and perhaps loose at one end, just less fuss with it out the way.

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tottot, will take your word, I not done this before. Got rock sliders fitted by previous owner so will have a butchers to see what needs removing.
Cheers

Turboman said:

The main issue with Landrovers is rust, and dissimilar metal corrosion.

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Haha, yeah, noticed that but generally thought that applied to structurals, not every ferrous based part on the dem thing. Spose it is a landy after all.
Don't get me started on the bulkhead.... chassis, outriggers and cross members seem ok though which is a bonus.

MattNoviceOwner said:

Haha, yeah, noticed that but generally thought that applied to structurals, not every ferrous based part on the dem thing. Spose it is a landy after all.
Don't get me started on the bulkhead.... chassis, outriggers and cross members seem ok though which is a bonus.

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All mild steels rust.

@MattNoviceOwner - how are you getting on ?