Quick Immobiliser Question

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Clanforbes

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Perthshire
Does anyone know of an easy, quick but reliable way to make the immobiliser on a 2000 Defender TD5 kick in.

I've had a bit of an intermittant fault for a while and I now suspect it might be my immobiliser kicking-in. I've just got the EKA code from LR so I would like to test my theory out. Trouble is, I'm not sure what I was doing to make the "fault" appear, even though it has died on me 4 times now.

Thanks in advance if anyone has an easy answer to this.

Ron.
 
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Does anyone know of an easy, quick but reliable way to make the immobiliser on a 2000 Defender TD5 kick in.

I've had a bit of an intermittant fault for a while and I now suspect it might be my immobiliser kicking-in. I've just got the EKA code from LR so I would like to test my theory out. Trouble is, I'm not sure what I was doing to make the "fault" appear, even though it has died on me 4 times now.

Thanks in advance if anyone has an easy answer to this.

Ron.

seperate the fob from the key and either unlock yer landy with the key or unlock it with the fob and then wait for 30 seconds before putting the key in the ignition. The immobiliser should then be active and your vehicle should not start. You can now test your theory.
 
Thanks very much Ratty, only one snag, I didn't get a fob with the vehicle, but I'm working on that with the help of Ebay.

Do you happen to know if I need the single button fob or the two button fob, or more importantly, would either of the two do the job?

Cheers.

Ron.
 
Thanks very much Ratty, only one snag, I didn't get a fob with the vehicle, but I'm working on that with the help of Ebay.

Do you happen to know if I need the single button fob or the two button fob, or more importantly, would either of the two do the job?

Cheers.

Ron.

2 button fob. You could always get yer landy plugged in so that the immobiliser is turned off. A Nanocom will also tell you what the eka code for your vehicle is.
 
Thanks again Ratty, I'm pretty sure the Hawkeye can also let me read the EKA code and set the immob to off once I get into using it for a full investigation of my Landy and it's bits, at the moment I don't want to change anything until I verify that it is the immob that's causing my difficulties.

Trust me to have bought a single button fob first.

Oh, can I pick your brains with one more question?

If so, when the Nanocom (and I assume the Hawkeye will be the same or similar) reads and displays the injector numbers (which seems to be in the form of a four digit alpha code,) is it reading them from what is stored in the ECM or is it reading them from the actual injectors somehow?

Oops, I better make that two q's.

If I need to find the numbers myself from the injectors, do you happen to know exactly where the number is? I recently fitted a new harness and the only numbers I noticed where a single numerical digit stamped into each of the plastic bodies of the solenoids.

Aw poo, make that 3.

Shifty is selling a set of injectors and he mentions the "colour" as either blue or black (sometimes green) Am I correct in believing that this is the colour of the washer at the very top end of the spring?

Aww done, I promise..............................for now.

Cheers once again.

Ron.
 
Oh, can I pick your brains with one more question?

If so, when the Nanocom (and I assume the Hawkeye will be the same or similar) reads and displays the injector numbers (which seems to be in the form of a four digit alpha code,) is it reading them from what is stored in the ECM or is it reading them from the actual injectors somehow?

Oops, I better make that two q's.

If I need to find the numbers myself from the injectors, do you happen to know exactly where the number is? I recently fitted a new harness and the only numbers I noticed where a single numerical digit stamped into each of the plastic bodies of the solenoids.

Aw poo, make that 3.

Shifty is selling a set of injectors and he mentions the "colour" as either blue or black (sometimes green) Am I correct in believing that this is the colour of the washer at the very top end of the spring?

Aww done, I promise..............................for now.

Cheers once again.

Ron.
Q1. The codes you see from any type of Diagnostics device are the ones already programmed into the ECU. The injectors do not electronically store any kind of code.

Q2. The individual injector codes are printed/stamped onto the top of the plastic injector solenoid body next to the two pin wiring harness connector. The codes can be a five digit combo of numbers and letters (0-9 and A-F) as they are in hexadecimal format. The single number or letter should be ignored. I beleive they are manufacturing factory location codes.

Q3. Yes the plastic washer at the top end of the injector spring is coloured Black, Blue, or Green.
Black or Blue injectors are for use in EU2 spec engines with 10p engine numbers. I have 5 used "black" injectors looking for a good home. No decent offer refused. PM me if interested. Spam over.

Green injectors are for use in EU3 engines with 15p engine numbers as they operate at higher injection pressures (3000 bar instead of 2200 bar). The EU3 engines use a different cam profile to generate the higher pressure required to "fire" the injector.

All injectors however will physically fit both types of engine but you do so at your own risk. Black or Blue injectors in a 15p engine may bottom out with the modified cam profile and Green injectors in a 10p engine may not reach their correct operating pressure leading to bad atomisation and spray patterns. You can not fit an EU3 spec camshaft to an EU2 spec engine without changing the complete cylinder head and camshaft carrier.
 
Thanks again Ratty, I'm pretty sure the Hawkeye can also let me read the EKA code and set the immob to off once I get into using it for a full investigation of my Landy and it's bits, at the moment I don't want to change anything until I verify that it is the immob that's causing my difficulties.

Trust me to have bought a single button fob first.

Oh, can I pick your brains with one more question?

If so, when the Nanocom (and I assume the Hawkeye will be the same or similar) reads and displays the injector numbers (which seems to be in the form of a four digit alpha code,) is it reading them from what is stored in the ECM or is it reading them from the actual injectors somehow?

Oops, I better make that two q's.

If I need to find the numbers myself from the injectors, do you happen to know exactly where the number is? I recently fitted a new harness and the only numbers I noticed where a single numerical digit stamped into each of the plastic bodies of the solenoids.

Aw poo, make that 3.

Shifty is selling a set of injectors and he mentions the "colour" as either blue or black (sometimes green) Am I correct in believing that this is the colour of the washer at the very top end of the spring?

Aww done, I promise..............................for now.

Cheers once again.

Ron.

regarding your questions, I agree with what shifty said.
 
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Thank you both very much for your generosity in sharing your wisdom & knowledge. I have pretty much been out of the home mechanics for a good few years now, which is sad because I always did enjoy it very much, however, I got old(ish.)

I laugh when I read things like when Shifty mentioned in one of his threads about loosening seized bolts etc. He was once given a tip by an "old school mechanic" to tighten them a fraction first to crack the seal - I've been doing that since I was a young 'un so I must be Old School.

Anyway, It's one of the things I like so much about my Landy. It's the first vehicle I have actually enjoyed working with (read that as having problems with) in years. I hope it never has to see the inside of a garage for repair again.

Shifty, a PM will be on it's way very soon with an offer on your injectors. I am pretty certain my engine is a 10p one. I know the previous owner changed the engine as he fried the original but that's where the knowledge stops, I don't even know if he has told the DVLA about the new engine, as I haven't been able to get a decent view of the engine number to read it yet. It's just a rusty flat bit at the moment. I will try to clean it up when I am fitting the EGR blanking kit. My eventual plan is to do a sort of camper van conversion for when I go fishing but I need to get around this habit it has of dying on me before I'll trust it for launching/recovering my boat 'coz if it dies at low tide it would be drowned before I can get it going again (usually anything up to two days.)

However, I will solve it eventually, just working bit by bit until I locate the problem, hence why I am now trying to get it to break down upon demand, then I'll know what to avoid and hopefully, find a quicker re-start routine then cure it finally.

I hope you had a good holiday Shifty.

Thanks again for the info, I was pretty certain that the injector numbers wouldn't be directly readable from the DTC, but these days and modern technology, it wouldn't have been shocked to find that it was, so it'll be back off with the rocker cover again when this rain stops..

Ron.
 
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