pump tweak on 300 tdi

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i know what your saying but try pulling our 21ft caravan and 4 up in the disco in a std auto, it was struggling its tits off,hence the need for MORE POWER SCOTTY lol ive now gone down the road of doing my p38 diesel, a spider system from diesel tuners and a larger intercooler on that.nice bit of kit they do..
About the Spider diesel tuning device

Hiya Mark, we also tow a twin axle caravan, an LMC 8mtr Esquisit, and we find that our Tdi 300 auto (after De-Cat & De-EGR) tows it fine. Of course it slows down a bit uphills, but it weighs 2tons so that's perhaps 4.5tons all up being pulled by 120bhp !!!!

My commments were really aimed at those who buy Disco's and their ilk who don't understand what these 4x4's are really about. If you want/need performance, look elsewhere.

Cheers
Dave
 
Hiya Mark, we also tow a twin axle caravan, an LMC 8mtr Esquisit, and we find that our Tdi 300 auto (after De-Cat & De-EGR) tows it fine. Of course it slows down a bit uphills, but it weighs 2tons so that's perhaps 4.5tons all up being pulled by 120bhp !!!!

My commments were really aimed at those who buy Disco's and their ilk who don't understand what these 4x4's are really about. If you want/need performance, look elsewhere.

Cheers
Dave


yes i knew what you was saying m8 lol, ive just sold my pride and joy sierra cosworth,that was my power toy 1 of only 67 ever built by andy rouse 4x BTCC,was a rsoc member and took it to a couple of shows etc,but it was just sitting doing nothing in the week. sold it 2 weeks ago to a guy in leeds and got a tidy p38 and kept the disco too lol. on my 7th land rover now lol
 
yes i knew what you was saying m8 lol, ive just sold my pride and joy sierra cosworth,that was my power toy 1 of only 67 ever built by andy rouse 4x BTCC,was a rsoc member and took it to a couple of shows etc,but it was just sitting doing nothing in the week. sold it 2 weeks ago to a guy in leeds and got a tidy p38 and kept the disco too lol. on my 7th land rover now lol

That would have been a hard one for me as I used to lust after Cossie's.

Was it a 3 door with a whale tail or 5 door and what did the Andy Rouse connection mean in practice?
 
That would have been a hard one for me as I used to lust after Cossie's.

Was it a 3 door with a whale tail or 5 door and what did the Andy Rouse connection mean in practice?


this was my baby. andy rouse was involved with ford to produce a cosworth that was a bit different, he came up with the rouse sport available in 2wd and 4wd either the 302-r or 304-r wich stood for the torque =300 the drive = 2 or 4 wheel and r = rouse they had 260 bhp 300ftlb torque at very low revs they were available at about 25 ford dealers back thenfor around £30,000 they changed all the engine management and fitted a t25 hybrid turbo,changed the suspension and fitted a totally different bodykit for more down force ie: larger side skirts front splitter and larger rear spoiler with a apron on rear bumper and racing style rouse recaro seats,etc etc.they sold 6 2wd and 61 4wd but only around 25-30 in total are left today,most of them had leather trim but i had 1 of only 3 with the rare cloth trim...forget your subarus etc this was awsome round town with boost coming in from around 1,800 rpm and max power at around 5,500 so no need to thrash it..

114e_4.jpg
 
this was my baby. andy rouse was involved with ford to produce a cosworth that was a bit different, he came up with the rouse sport available in 2wd and 4wd either the 302-r or 304-r wich stood for the torque =300 the drive = 2 or 4 wheel and r = rouse they had 260 bhp 300ftlb torque at very low revs they were available at about 25 ford dealers back thenfor around £30,000 they changed all the engine management and fitted a t25 hybrid turbo,changed the suspension and fitted a totally different bodykit for more down force ie: larger side skirts front splitter and larger rear spoiler with a apron on rear bumper and racing style rouse recaro seats,etc etc.they sold 6 2wd and 61 4wd but only around 25-30 in total are left today,most of them had leather trim but i had 1 of only 3 with the rare cloth trim...forget your subarus etc this was awsome round town with boost coming in from around 1,800 rpm and max power at around 5,500 so no need to thrash it..

114e_4.jpg


That looks and from your description sounds, beautiful.

Gotta ask, why sell her?? Ok so she's not being used very much the present....................sorry, I'll stop.

I've no doubt you've gone through this a hundred times before already.

Lovely car though.......................

Cheers
Dave
 
That looks and from your description sounds, beautiful.

Gotta ask, why sell her?? Ok so she's not being used very much the present....................sorry, I'll stop.

I've no doubt you've gone through this a hundred times before already.

Lovely car though.......................

Cheers
Dave


yes lol been through it loads of times,but with the way my work is at the mo i had too.90% of our work is for USA and believe it or not we have been told today that there is going to be around 15-20 guys made redundant out of around 50 wich as been coming for some time hence the very reluctant sale of my pride and joy,but my mortgage comes first m8 and theres always another time for toys when things pick up hey ;)
mark.
 
yes lol been through it loads of times,but with the way my work is at the mo i had too.90% of our work is for USA and believe it or not we have been told today that there is going to be around 15-20 guys made redundant out of around 50 wich as been coming for some time hence the very reluctant sale of my pride and joy,but my mortgage comes first m8 and theres always another time for toys when things pick up hey ;)
mark.

You're right of course, but still tough though.

Anyway, there will be new toys on the horizon - how about a Disco3, in 5 yrs:D :D :D
 
just done the pump tweaks on my 95 300 tdi and the difference is brilliant! i have turned the smoke screw on the top by one full turn,turned the diaphram 90 degrees clockwise and turned the star nut clockwise by 120 degrees. i have not noticed any black smoke and was wandering if anyone knows whether this will not destroy my engine as everyone is going on about excessive EGT ! any help would be appreciated.

This sounds just what I need.............any further tips or blow-by-blow steps and/or pictures??????????
 
I found the smoke screw realy easily but where is the diaphram and spider wheel? I have the egr model (egr blanked) and was wondering if its under the cover that the position sensor is mounted to on the pump? any one got a picture of where it is cos I dont want to randomly take the pump apart and leave it leaking:)

:nopics:
 
Is yours a manual or auto gearbox? If it's auto, it will have EDC so you can't do the pump mods because it's all controlled by an ECU.
 
from start to finish:cool:
remove the four screws from the power valve on top of the pump ( squarish plate with brass cover in centre ..big screwdriver very tight) The top of the plate will spring up...notice how far it rises on top of the spring.(say 7mm) Remove the cover. Then you will see a black diaphragm..if you want with tippex mark its positon relative to the casing and then remove the diaphragm (lift edges and pull up) remove the spring underneath (do not move the trottle when the diaphragm is out !!) at the bottom of the cavitly you will see a toothed wheel. You need to screw this down to reduce the lift in the top plate to about 3mm ( 7 - 4 =3 ) Wind it down with the edge of a screwdriver and then re fit everything to check the lift ..rarely I have had to remove the ali wheel and grind some off the bottom to get it to go down enough. Now examine the shaft on the diaphragm ...you will see an off centre cut out at the bottom ...re fit the diaphragm with the deepest part of the cut out towards the rear of the vehicle...this gives you max fuel. dont forget the sping and check you still have some lift in the top plate as you screw it down...thats it done .....If you do have some smoke then you have two choices ...increase the turbo pressure or reduce the fuel a little by rotating the diaphragm a little clock or anticloc it dont matter... I have rarely found this the case ...no need to re adjust for the MOT all mine had very low c02 and passed easy....
I do not advise adjusting the screw under the brass cap or the main fuel adjuster at the rear ...you may get a tiney bit more but when you get smoke its a pain to know what to adjust ..adjust only the three items mentioned ...turbo pressure...diaphragm rotation and spring pressure...done dozens without problems one on a supermarket car park!

I hope the moderator puts this in the arcive and I hope the netative comments ( previous experience) are balance by the great comments from people who have done this with no problem though I must say I have not control over the condition of your cylinder head gasket or radiator or header tank. ( header tanks splitting causes over heating causes head gasket to blow)
 
from start to finish:cool:
remove the four screws from the power valve on top of the pump ( squarish plate with brass cover in centre ..big screwdriver very tight) The top of the plate will spring up...notice how far it rises on top of the spring.(say 7mm) Remove the cover. Then you will see a black diaphragm..if you want with tippex mark its positon relative to the casing and then remove the diaphragm (lift edges and pull up) remove the spring underneath (do not move the trottle when the diaphragm is out !!) at the bottom of the cavitly you will see a toothed wheel. You need to screw this down to reduce the lift in the top plate to about 3mm ( 7 - 4 =3 ) Wind it down with the edge of a screwdriver and then re fit everything to check the lift ..rarely I have had to remove the ali wheel and grind some off the bottom to get it to go down enough. Now examine the shaft on the diaphragm ...you will see an off centre cut out at the bottom ...re fit the diaphragm with the deepest part of the cut out towards the rear of the vehicle...this gives you max fuel. dont forget the sping and check you still have some lift in the top plate as you screw it down...thats it done .....If you do have some smoke then you have two choices ...increase the turbo pressure or reduce the fuel a little by rotating the diaphragm a little clock or anticloc it dont matter... I have rarely found this the case ...no need to re adjust for the MOT all mine had very low c02 and passed easy....
I do not advise adjusting the screw under the brass cap or the main fuel adjuster at the rear ...you may get a tiney bit more but when you get smoke its a pain to know what to adjust ..adjust only the three items mentioned ...turbo pressure...diaphragm rotation and spring pressure...done dozens without problems one on a supermarket car park!

I hope the moderator puts this in the arcive and I hope the netative comments ( previous experience) are balance by the great comments from people who have done this with no problem though I must say I have not control over the condition of your cylinder head gasket or radiator or header tank. ( header tanks splitting causes over heating causes head gasket to blow)

are you claiming this as your own work ?
 
Well shes a high mileage beast but the previous owner had the head replaced about a year ago and the temperature runs about 1/3 of the way up the gauge solo and even when towing 1.5ton on long uphill stretches. I'm not after a fast car otherwise id have bought somat else I'm just after a more usable towing vehicle after my last carvan trip to wales that saw me doing 15-20mph in 2nd gear with my hoof to the shagpile up a very steep road. The emmisions at the last mot were so below the limit it was unbeleivable and I have never seen any black smoke out the zorst except on changing gear under full acceleration and even then its not much at all. Thanks for the advice folks.
 
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