Freelander 2 (LR2) PTU Oil Change Drain.

Today set about another part of my plan to change the oil fluids on my FL2 i have already done the gearbox oil, & the rear diff oil.

The next oil to be drained and changed was the PTU oil, i have used 75w/80 in the link below.
5L Synthetic 75w80 75W/80 Gear Differential Oil 5 Litres GL-4 MB: 235.10 | eBay

As most of us know there is not a drain plug the PTU as it is supposed to be sealed for life therefore i decided to use a suction pump, which worked well changing the rear diff oil over.

Some owners have used one of the lower bolts on the PTU which they removed and drilled a 3mm hole to break through the case, i did not fancy doing this so opted for the suction pump solution.

As the FL2 was already on my four car ramps from doing the diff yesterday all i had to do was remove the under tray / guard.
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To remove the engine guard you will need a 13mm six sided socket & ratchet, there are six bolts holding the under guard on back, middle and front either side.
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Once you have removed the bolts lower the guard and put it safe away from the car, now you can see where the PTU filler plug is situated, you will need to look over the front sub frame to get a good view.
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To undo the filler plug i used a long 13mm aviation ring spanner through the sub frame and the pipe, the aviation spanner gives you good leverage.
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Once you have cracked the filler plug, you can then reach in and over the sub frame and remove the plug & copper washer.
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Check the filler plug to see if it as any sludge etc on the end of it, mine was fine no sludge.
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Wipe it clean and add a new copper washer ready for re-fitting after the oil change.
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Next i set up the suction pump under the car, the small 5mm tube is needed to enter the PTU at about 17.50 on a clock face, move it about a little until you can feel it go into the PTU, slowly push the tube further in, it is quite tight.

I started the pump to drain out the oil.
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Hopefully you can see the entry angle of the tube into the PTU from these photos.
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It took at least an hour to drain out 500ml which is all i could get out due to the tightness and angle of the tube in the PTU.
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To make double sure and to see the true colour of the oil i poured it into a measuring jug, as you can see the oil is dark brown not black, which some owners have declared.
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The measuring jug also gave me a better reading as to how much came out which was about 575ml
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Here is the small pot of the new 75w/90 next to the used oil removed, i think 75w/80 maybe better ?
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Now i turned my attention to getting the oil pumped back into the PTU once again not easy because of the angle of the filler hole and access, i used this below.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Draper-T...415977&hash=item48bc115e31:g:PWEAAOSwl5JcHTtt

This was great on the rear diff so no reason why it should not be good on the PTU.
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I pumped in 700ml
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Which then the oil started to run out of the filler hole, which i let run until it stopped
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I then sucked out 60ml with a syringe and 3ml tube and refitted the filler plug with a new washer, cleaning up the area with carb cleaner.
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I then stuck a magnet to the oil filler plug on the out side until spring, when i intend to drain off the oil again and replace with new, this time i may go for adding a drain plug in the area at the lowest part of the PTU, which i have shown here in this photo.

The bolt with the arrow is the one some owners have removed and drilled into the PTU with a small 3/4ml drill in the centre and then used this as a drain plug, but as you can see it is not the lowest point.
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The circle with the X is it seems to me to be the best place for a drain plug to be fitted.
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I hope this helps others tomorrow i move on to the Haldex filter change and oil.

Nice write up Arctic2, did your syringes and 3mm tube come from the bay also?

NeilTD4 said:

Nice write up Arctic2, did your syringes and 3mm tube come from the bay also?

Click to expand...

Hi Neil
Yes i used this to drain out the oil from gearbox, PTU, rear Diff, and Haldex.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Electric...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Tube which i purchased 4mm 6mm 8mm as tubing is always useful.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/8mm-PVC-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

syringes i purchased from here.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Medical-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

great of you to do this for us as many of us our freelander 1s are getting old and some of us are looking towards the F2 thank you

Arctic2 said:

Hi Neil
Yes i used this to drain out the oil from gearbox, PTU, rear Diff, and Haldex.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Electric-60W-DC-12V-Engine-Oil-Fluid-Extractor-Car-Liquid-Transfer-Siphon-Pump/401847924328?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Tube which i purchased 4mm 6mm 8mm as tubing is always useful.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/8mm-PVC-Tube-Clear-Plastic-Hose-Pipe-Food-Grade-Fish-Pond-Car-Aquariums-Air/223290829785?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

syringes i purchased from here.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Medical-Syringes-2ml-5ml-10ml-20ml-50ml-100ml-Sterile-Ink-Cartridge-Water-DIY-CE/221878070530?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Click to expand...

Thanks Arctic2, I feel an eBay spending spree coming on come payday

teddywood1 said:

great of you to do this for us as many of us our freelander 1s are getting old and some of us are looking towards the F2 thank you

Click to expand...

Thanks Arctic2, I feel an eBay spending spree coming on come payday.


My pleasure guys & gals, i have also took a few photo of the Haldex oil change using the same suction pump, and syringe etc which i will post up sometime this week, over period of 4 days knowing the weather was going to be fairly good to us i did the Manual gearbox oil, PTU oil, rear diff oil, & the Haldex oil, having done the engine oil a month or so before.

I tried to do my PTU oil yesterday, but couldn't get the plug out, not even with my impact wrench.
I might leave it till next year now, although I do need to do the Haldex fluid, as it's dragging slightly, even when the vehicle is off.

Nodge68 said:

I tried to do my PTU oil yesterday, but couldn't get the plug out, not even with my impact wrench.
I might leave it till next year now, although I do need to do the Haldex fluid, as it's dragging slightly, even when the vehicle is off.

Click to expand...

Hi John.
Is it rounding off? if so maybe an Irwins bolt grip will sort it out.
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Arctic2 said:

Hi John.
Is it rounding off? if so maybe an Irwins bolt grip will sort it out.

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Click to expand...

No Arctic. The bolt head is fine, it's just bloody tight.
Because it's in an awkward place and I didn't give myself enough room, I used 2 extensions on the socket, which does affect the effectiveness of an impact wrench.

Next time I'll lift it higher, so I can get the impact wrench straight on the socket.

Do you know what thread size the plug is? so I can check I have the right size Dowty washers.
Cheers.

Nodge68 said:

No Arctic. The bolt head is fine, it's just bloody tight.
Because it's in an awkward place and I didn't give myself enough room, I used 2 extensions on the socket, which does affect the effectiveness of an impact wrench.

Next time I'll lift it higher, so I can get the impact wrench straight on the socket.

Do you know what thread size the plug is? so I can check I have the right size Dowty washers.
Cheers.

Click to expand...

Hi Nodge
I purchased these below M18 x 28mm x1.5mm
Copper Sealing Washers Metric - M4 M6 M8 M10 M12 M14 M16 M20 Flat Seal Washer | eBay
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I used an aviation spanner to undo the bolt.
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pump to get the oil out.
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Pipe needs to go in at about 19.00 or 7 o'clock you will feel it find a little gap in the PTU which can then be slide in further.
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Arctic2 said:

Hi Nodge
I purchased these below M18 x 28mm x1.5mm
Copper Sealing Washers Metric - M4 M6 M8 M10 M12 M14 M16 M20 Flat Seal Washer | eBay

A

I used an aviation spanner to undo the bolt.

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pump to get the oil out.

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Pipe needs to go in at about 19.00 or 7 o'clock you will feel it find a little gap in the PTU which can then be slide in further.

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Click to expand...

That's for that.
Have you done your Haldex fluid yet?
Mine is dragging slightly, so needs to be done ASAP.

Well it's that time of year for all oil changes again, but this time round on two FL2 one manual and one Auto, Haldex on the Auto should not need doing, it has just last week had a new filter , and new pump in an effort to stop slight grabbing at the rear, by the dealer i purchased it from they failed to rectify the problem which i knew they would.

So it will be off to( https://www.bellengineering.co.uk/freelander-2-products-post-2008) it has to be booked in on the 1st November 2023 for it to be looked at in January 2024, therefore i have to put up with the grabbing until then, spoke Will/Austen he says it should be ok and will not cause anymore damage ? hope that is true.

I figured that the grabbing can't be good for the PTU splines, so pulled the Haldex fuse until I can get round to sorting mine out.

Nodge68 said:

I figured that the grabbing can't be good for the PTU splines, so pulled the Haldex fuse until I can get round to sorting mine out.

Click to expand...

Hi John.
I am of the same thinking, any sort problem on the driveline can not be good, is it FB1 in the rear luggage compartment fuse box, known has the electronic centre differential, it will throw a light up on the dash will it not until it is sorted, i was also surprised with Bell engineering answer that it would not cause any more or other damage ? i may give it another flush out but, am reluctant to even touch it while it's under warranty just in case they say i have voided the warranty due to this or that.

What they really needed to do was remove the Haldex completely and removed checked the plates clean them and then see if it made a difference i will be phoning and sending an email today, so they know it has to be booked in.

Arctic2 said:

Hi John.
I am of the same thinking, any sort problem on the driveline can not be good, is it FB1 in the rear luggage compartment fuse box, known has the electronic centre differential, it will throw a light up on the dash will it not until it is sorted, i was also surprised with Bell engineering answer that it would not cause any more or other damage ? i may give it another flush out but, am reluctant to even touch it while it's under warranty just in case they say i have voided the warranty due to this or that.

What they really needed to do was remove the Haldex completely and removed checked the plates clean them and then see if it made a difference i will be phoning and sending an email today, so they know it has to be booked in.

Click to expand...

The AWD system is fragile enough without it being stuck in AWD when not needed. The grabbing sensation is the clutch pack slipping, as it's engaged when it shouldn't be. This causes all those forces to be transferred through the PTU and splines, which isn't good.

Mine is fuse FB5, but it's called electronic center diff.
I have the DSC light flashing, and a transmission failure on the LCD, but I can live with that until it's sorted. I believe mine is stuck in AWD most of the time, as it's slightly better on fuel with the Haldex disabled.

Nodge68 said:

The AWD system is fragile enough without it being stuck in AWD when not needed. The grabbing sensation is the clutch pack slipping, as it's engaged when it shouldn't be. This causes all those forces to be transferred through the PTU and splines, which isn't good.

Mine is fuse FB5, but it's called electronic center diff.
I have the DSC light flashing, and a transmission failure on the LCD, but I can live with that until it's sorted. I believe mine is stuck in AWD most of the time, as it's slightly better on fuel with the Haldex disabled.

Click to expand...

Hi John.
Big thank you for taking the time to red and give your input, i think i will pull the fuse tomorrow and see how it drives then, i have become obsessed with this Haldex problem now, as i do not like anything to beat me, but my hands are tied at the moment due to the warranty and not making it void because i have touched the Haldex.

In the meantime everything i can fins about the Haldex gen 4 & gen 3 i am reading, such as the link below.

Ho and i have three Gen 3 Haldex on a bench in my shed which i intend to take apart and clean etc also learn from do that.
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One i have already started removing the pump & filter.

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The other two have the drive shaft coupling attached so ned to remove those first also.
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Changed the engine oil and filter today, i also found out that it has the wrong power steering fluid in, brownish as opposed to the green it should have.

Today i got another job out of the way on the ORK FL2 SD4 the rear diff oil was changed.

The oil that was used was Smith & Allan FS 75w/90
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This was added to my hand pump 1ltr even though the rear diff takes 0.7litres, it helps when pumping if you are not sucking up the dregs at the bottom of the container.
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The FL was already on the four ramps which are always used when working under the car.
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The little suction pumps and the battery were also ready under the rear of the FL, along with my 13mm aviation spanner & socket ratchet.
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Cracked the filler plug open, with the aviation spanner excellent to get that little more leverage.
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Turned the filler plug out slowly with my hand, i was expecting a little oil to drip out but nowt,
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A bit mucky but not really bad.
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The copper washer was left behind, which was removed has a new one is going to be fitted.
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Hooked the pump up to the battery which was fully charged.
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The pump with it's little 5mm drain pipe was pushed into the diff and the removal of the oil was started.
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This is a slow process because the volume of withdrawal is not that fast, and towards the end it slows down even more, the first 10 minutes is not to bad.
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Maybe about 400ml removed in the first 10mins then you have to start moving the suction pipe about in the diff, by 12.28pm most if not all the oil was removed, copper washer removed cleaned up around the filler entrance.
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This is the amount that was sucked out.
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You can clearly see it's very dark brown as opposed the the nice golden colour.
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This was then poured into a measuring jug.
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The total amount that was sucked out was 700ml
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Amounts from the owners book
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I hooked up my hand pump.
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This was held in place with a rubber bung, once pumping had been commenced & oil was dribbling out i stopped.
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700ml back in the plug was fitted and i started the car for about 10mins.
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Plug removed added another 50ml until dripping again plug refitted job done, overall 750ml
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I will remove the plug again later today when i am doing the PTU if weather allows, to let it drip until it stops.

Well done Steve.
Dark colour oil is a good sign, as there's no metal in it. Now light silvery oil would mean more issues in the future.

Yesterday day with the decent weather the PTU got it's oil change, oil used was the (smith & Allan ) in the photo below gear tech FS 75w-90.
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The ORK was lifted onto the two sets of ramps which is what are used for any work under the FL 2 it is an auto SD4.
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The engine under tray was removed four 13mm bolts.

Battery, small pump, and bottle for the old oil set up, ready for the extraction.
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Cracked open the 13mm filler plug on the PTU, using a long aviation ring spanner.
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Once cracked open i then used a small ratchet ring spanner, this enabled me to undo the rest with my fingers.
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The plug didn't look to bad considering i doubt this oil as ever been changed in the last 9 years because of LR recommendations that it's not in the maintenance schedules?
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The copper sealing ring was left behind when the plug was removed.
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This was removed and discarded a new sealing ring/washer was being installed, i left it in place while i pumped out the old oil, 5mm suction tube inserted into the filler hole.
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The pump was then connected to the 12v battery fully charged, and the outlet hose into the bottle, the pump was switched on.
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We had the oil flowing out of the PTU, which does not look to bad dark golden colour.
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Into the bottle.
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The pump was left to do it's work while i did a few jobs in the shed and add a new bolt to one of the side steps on the ORK, by 12.58pm no more oil was coming out of the PTU, note the copper washer has been removed.
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The amount of oil extracted was 500ml therefore 250ml must be left in the PTU the official amount being 0.75litre17 =1.23 pints.
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The oil looks a bit darker now it's in the measure jug but looks to be in decent condition, no metal bits etc
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The bottle pump that is used to refill the rear diff & PTU was set up and hooked into the filler hole.
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The pumping proceeds to the point of the 500ml that was extracted from the PTU.
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No oil was yet dripping from the filler hole, so another 100ml was pumped in this now made 600ml then oil stated to drip.
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Marked an X on the PTU ready for a drain plug come spring when i will changed the oil again, basically making this oil change a flushing one.
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I left the oil to stop dripping while i put away the battery, pump, and old oil, once that was sorted i added the filler plug with a new copper washer.
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Another job out of the way, tomorrow my intentions are to drop the oil from the Haldex, remove the new pump, and filter check if it needs cleaning inside and add a new filter which is only 6 weeks old apparently.