Propshaft bolt cross-threaded - damn!

Just replaced the universal joints on the front shaft of the 110. Four new nuts/bolts at axle end, all ok. Replaced the nuts on the transfer box end, as the bolts are captive. Three tightened up no problem, one started ok then tightened up like a ducks arse. :doh:
I took it off, put a new nut on it, then fastened it down. Or tried to. Ducks arse number two.:doh:
Not having the time or tools to strip it all down and replace the bolts at the transfer box end, I tightened it as much as I could but it's not fully tight.
Do you reckon three fastened bolts will be ok for normal road driving until I get the stuff together for replacing the transfer box bolts?
(It drove for long enough with three bearings on the transfer box end UJ.... )

its your landy if wanna drive it like that carry on,

If you dont have to drive it then dont, there's 4 bolts there for a reason, It takes a lot of force to spin dem shafts.

as long as other 3 are tight you shouldnt have any problem driving it till you can get around to replacing the bolts

If the captive bolt head can move it may contact the Xfer box housing. There is not a lot of clearance between the flange and the housing.

why cant you take the whole shaft off untill you get new nuts and bolts i think im right in saying just engage diff lock

it will run fine with or without 1 nut

Can you not cut the head of the knackered bolt off, and stick a nut/bolt assemble in the "wrong way round", captive nut instead, so to speak ?

dumbiron said:

Can you not cut the head of the knackered bolt off, and stick a nut/bolt assemble in the "wrong way round", captive nut instead, so to speak ?

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There's no room at the transfer box end to get a grinder in there, unless the crossmember is removed (as far as I can see). I just hope I can get the duff nut off when the bits turn up for it...
I'm going to remove the flange (thanks Buster et.al.) and replace the bolts and nuts too. Apart from nut #8 the rest should come apart fine now I've replaced them

It will vibrate and probably be unbalanced. It's not the force needed to turn the shaft that's the issue it will be if it pulls away from the flange where there is no nut. Might weaken the existing bolts. The worst that happens is you snap all 4 bolts and half your propshaft falls off. It's your choice, it's not going to damage anything even if they snap. Unless of course it hits the underside of the floor at 50mph.

Anyway, I'd still drive it personally if I had to.

khaos said:

It will vibrate and probably be unbalanced. It's not the force needed to turn the shaft that's the issue it will be if it pulls away from the flange where there is no nut. Might weaken the existing bolts. The worst that happens is you snap all 4 bolts and half your propshaft falls off. It's your choice, it's not going to damage anything even if they snap. Unless of course it hits the underside of the floor at 50mph.

Anyway, I'd still drive it personally if I had to.

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Ever tried pole-vaulting?

Dropping a prop at speed is dangerous as....(what section we in?.....ah)...something very, very dangerous

blue beasty said:

Ever tried pole-vaulting?

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has trouble with braking !

i can only talk from experience ,while 4 bolts is what you want ,i see a lot of vehicles with 1 or 2 bolts with loose nuts(damaged)as long as the others are tight ,i wouldnt set off on holiday like that but locally wouldnt worry me for a few days there are no balance issues lrs arent that finely balanced,pole vaulting could only occur at failure at front diff end even then it wont as cross member stops prop hitting floor ,there are enough noise and feel indicators before prop drops off ,some people just ignore them

As the shear strength of each bolt is around 3/4 ton, running with three of the four tightenened down will give you more than sufficient shear strength to run normally until you are able to replace the stripped bolt.

Thanks everyone, for all your advice. I'll still use it if I need to, but I've got bits on the way to sort it asap.
Thanks again.