Project Rusty.

Now that it's warm and light again, work recommences after a 6 month hiatus.
That means I'm in distress and need... HELP!
How are the outside panels fastened to the vehicle? What do I have to do to remove them?
How many fasteners are there of what type and where?
Here's the picture of what I found when I removed the trim panel from the rear compartment. The rust runs up along the edge of the wheel arch as well.

You can get a repair section cheap as chips for the bottom panel that the boot floor sits on then just a few plates made up job sorted. Not 100% about outside skins but I would presume a s**t load of spot welds

Kiwi Jim said:

Now that it's warm and light again, work recommences after a 6 month hiatus.
That means I'm in distress and need... HELP!
How are the outside panels fastened to the vehicle? What do I have to do to remove them?
How many fasteners are there of what type and where?
Here's the picture of what I found when I removed the trim panel from the rear compartment. The rust runs up along the edge of the wheel arch as well.View attachment 180391

Click to expand...

3 or 5 door, think you have a 5 door?

I found these very helpful, someone else posted them to me so I take no credit for having them.







Hope that helps.

dieseldog69 said:

3 or 5 door, think you have a 5 door?

I found these very helpful, someone else posted them to me so I take no credit for having them.

View attachment 180405

View attachment 180406

View attachment 180407

Hope that helps.

Click to expand...

Thanks

Second hand parts recovery today, went off with my angle grinder and my recip saw on a trip to Waterlooville, had me a hot date with a dark blue Disco

Pulled the rear quarter panel off and had a look, not bad at all!!!







Tiny little bit of bubbling but nothing a rub back with emery and priming won't cure



Time to get busy with the weapons of choice, angle grinder and the recip saw.





Chopped the whole bottom section out of the rear body cross member and it's a real bonus as I needed that bottom radius pressing as mine was rather rotten.

my rear body cross member isn't exactly any good either but that can be rebuilt easy enough.

I had become quite demoralized by the thought of having to rebuild the door post and I must admit that I have been at a bit of a low ebb since I stripped it out, this find has renewed my vigour and I feel much better about cracking on with it and getting it done now

Weather is pants today so tomorrow I plan to be back out on it and getting it sorted.

Back out on it today with the renewed gusto

Still got loads to do but finding that door pillar in excellent condition has really encouraged me.

First I thought I had better get some paint on the boot floor supports as they need time to dry in the nice weather before getting put away again.



Got the grinder out and the recip saw and cut a lot more out.

Chopped through the bottom of the door post but left it mostly in tact for rigidity but chopped out the rest of the rot and got the old body mounts ripped out, the bolts didn't play nicely, at all

So ground them out and chopped the rest of the rot out.



Even though this side has been repaired before, it was still rotted out where I hadn't repaired it, this time it's all being done and all the usual muck and water traps are being engineered out of it this time round.

But for now there is a big hole where there used to be rusty metal.







I wire wheeled back the body mount outriggers where the body mounts sit and got them painted up in preparation for the upcoming box section.

I will have to look a bit harder and dig around a lot more for the other body mount, only found one but I bought all 4 so there seems to be one missing, but I painted up the one I found and it'll be perfectly dry where the bushes go.



After getting all packed up I wandered up to the car to fetch my prize from yesterday



Get this box section in the sill and the bit of chassis plated up and then the wheel tub and boot floor side section before I set about the door post, at least if it's left til last then there is going to be more strength and rigidity from the rebuilt rear body structure.

Feels good to be back on it

Keep up the good work

Great thread, keep battling on

Cracking weather today and no family duties to attend to so I could crack on with some car stuff

Got the white spirit out and set about getting the black sticky crap off the panel joints.




Scraped the rough bubbly paint off in places and rubbed it back with sand paper and keyed the good paint ready for primer and get a couple of decent coats on there.



While I was waiting between coats of paint I set about the lump of box section and cut the angle on the back and cut the end caps ready for welding tomorrow when I get the welder out and start blazing away.



More tomorrow me thinks.

It’s coming together really well, DD. I wish I had the same enthusiasm.

For some reason I don’t get notified when anyone posts on this thread, so I miss loads .

The Mad Hat Man said:

It’s coming together really well, DD. I wish I had the same enthusiasm.

For some reason I don’t get notified when anyone posts on this thread, so I miss loads .

Click to expand...

Enthusiasm isn't the right way of describing it, I liken it to shear annoyance that I have not yet got the bloody thing done yet, and to cap it all off I was doing so well today but somehow managed to forget to get another couple of rolls of 0.8mm wire a few months back when I put my last spare on the spindle

Anyhoo.......

I did manage to get some more done

Capping the box section ends with some 2mm plate.







All done



Now I hit a new problem, the rear body mount was fine without shimming but the front body mount needed to be shimmed out by about 5mm, all I had was some 4mm hot rolled flat stock, that'll do nicely and just needed to get it welded onto the body mount.





That's it all welded into place on the box section and bolted into the bushes on the outrigger.



The back one tacked at the top and seam welded down one side already.



Welded the bottom of the B post to the box section already.



Slathered some primer on the box section where I'm not going to be welding immediately, tidy



Dug out the black and got some of it blathered over the primer I applied yesterday and those bits are done ready and waiting for the rest of the welding to be finished up.



Back bit done too.



Yeah, well, it will get some attention but only after I get the rest of it sorted, the roof section is well rotted out and will get a bit of a seeing to from the die grinder and some fresh steel welded in there when I attack that C post.



I ran out of welding wire and I am pizzed that I didn't replace my spare once I'd fitted the last but I'll get myself a few more reels in the cupboard ready to rumble in the week.

Watch this space............

Looking good welding looks niiiiice

haza88 said:

Looking good welding looks niiiiice

Click to expand...

Thank you kind sir, must admit, getting quite a lot of practice in on this old girl.

The Mrs. asked me if I would have still carried on with it had I started on this side first with the C pillar being the way it is, shamefully I would have most likely scrapped it had I opened it up to the mess under there on top of the rest of it, it made it easier to carry on with it as I had already welded up one side and had all the panels and steel ready for this side and the C pillar has just popped up as a hindrance and not that much considering how much I've already done.

Yea fair play, think of it like a mountain you’ve climbed to the peek a long tiresome road (where you think of how much ud get for it on eBay in current state ) but u slaved on and your now on the way down, and theres a crate of cold beers at the bottom , keep up the good work

Tis looking great good job

Kiwi Jim said:

Thanks

Click to expand...

Finally got the side off.
Mr. Dieseldog, Sir, those three pages you sent me were most valuable and very helpful (although never as helpful as one would wish). Section 77 of the workshop manual isn't included in the edition I've bought. It jumps straight from section 76 to section 80.
Although for a 3-door, those pages indicated to me what bolts my 5-door would have fastening the skin on, what screws, and what rivets needed drilling out. The pages didn't mention, however, the self tapping screws which had been added in addition, probably on the production line when quality control deemed the panel insufficiently well attached. My main gripe with the description, though is instruction 77.16 "Starting from the BC post..." (OK on my 5-door, that'll be the front end of the panel)... "and working towards rear of vehicle, ease the outer panel away from the body to break seal". Yeah. Right.

To the bottom, front and rear of the window, the sealant was black and sticky and not prepared to yield, but with brute force and ignorance the panel could be pushed away. The picture shows the body of the Landrover to the rear of the side window where the metal has been bent away from the skin panel to separate the two. However above the window there was a rubbery adhesive in addition to the sticky black sealant. This stuff was tough and stuck to the metal tenaciously. Of course I didn't know it was there. It was only when I got my Multitool (the vibrating cutting tool) and put on the blade which the adverts show someone lifting floor tiles with (the one with a smooth edge, not one with teeth), did I discover the correct way to separate the panel from the body. That thing cut through the adhesive and sealant like a hot knife in ice cream. After spending hours trying to prise the panel's front edge, the bottom edge, and the lower section of the rear edge of away from the body, and doing damage in the process, I did the top half of the rear edge and the top edge below the gutter, right along in about 10 minutes flat without causing further damage.

dieseldog69 said:

Cracking weather today and no family duties to attend to so I could crack on with some car stuff

Got the white spirit out and set about getting the black sticky crap off the panel joints.
View attachment 182767

View attachment 182770

Scraped the rough bubbly paint off in places and rubbed it back with sand paper and keyed the good paint ready for primer and get a couple of decent coats on there.

View attachment 182766

While I was waiting between coats of paint I set about the lump of box section and cut the angle on the back and cut the end caps ready for welding tomorrow when I get the welder out and start blazing away.

View attachment 182772

More tomorrow me thinks.

Click to expand...

What? White spirit dissolves that sticky black stuff?

Kiwi Jim said:

Finally got the side off.
Mr. Dieseldog, Sir, those three pages you sent me were most valuable and very helpful (although never as helpful as one would wish). Section 77 of the workshop manual isn't included in the edition I've bought. It jumps straight from section 76 to section 80.
Although for a 3-door, those pages indicated to me what bolts my 5-door would have fastening the skin on, what screws, and what rivets needed drilling out. The pages didn't mention, however, the self tapping screws which had been added in addition, probably on the production line when quality control deemed the panel insufficiently well attached. My main gripe with the description, though is instruction 77.16 "Starting from the BC post..." (OK on my 5-door, that'll be the front end of the panel)... "and working towards rear of vehicle, ease the outer panel away from the body to break seal". Yeah. Right.

To the bottom, front and rear of the window, the sealant was black and sticky and not prepared to yield, but with brute force and ignorance the panel could be pushed away. The picture shows the body of the Landrover to the rear of the side window where the metal has been bent away from the skin panel to separate the two. However above the window there was a rubbery adhesive in addition to the sticky black sealant. This stuff was tough and stuck to the metal tenaciously. Of course I didn't know it was there. It was only when I got my Multitool (the vibrating cutting tool) and put on the blade which the adverts show someone lifting floor tiles with (the one with a smooth edge, not one with teeth), did I discover the correct way to separate the panel from the body. That thing cut through the adhesive and sealant like a hot knife in ice cream. After spending hours trying to prise the panel's front edge, the bottom edge, and the lower section of the rear edge of away from the body, and doing damage in the process, I did the top half of the rear edge and the top edge below the gutter, right along in about 10 minutes flat without causing further damage.View attachment 183307 View attachment 183308

Click to expand...

I only recently had to pull the rear quarter off a 5 door and found rivets of all things in there. Yes there is a seam sealant in there to seal the panel, mine came away quite easily really.

Good to see you got it off, looks fairly well rotten in there though.

Kiwi Jim said:

What? White spirit dissolves that sticky black stuff?

Click to expand...

Yeah the white spirit is the bomb, I worked off with a stiff nylon nail brush and the black stuff just dissolves into nothing.

Looks like you got a fair whack of work ahead of you there.

dieseldog69 said:

I only recently had to pull the rear quarter off a 5 door and found rivets of all things in there. Yes there is a seam sealant in there to seal the panel, mine came away quite easily really.

Good to see you got it off, looks fairly well rotten in there though.



Yeah the white spirit is the bomb, I worked off with a stiff nylon nail brush and the black stuff just dissolves into nothing.

Looks like you got a fair whack of work ahead of you there.

Click to expand...

The more work I do, the more work I find needs doing.

Kiwi Jim said:

The more work I do, the more work I find needs doing.

Click to expand...

Yeah it kinda works out that way lol

I started out with a little hole in the wheel arch about as big as a fag packet and have wound up box sectioning both sills, new boot floor and side panels and wheel tubs along with the rear inner quarters and the Passenger side back door post oh and I got a small repair on the chassis to do as well.