Project lizzie rebuild thread

[robbh]

Pegging is the last thing to do effectively BUT there is a but.

You will not need to peg the diff until you have stopped breaking shafts and CVs but a wise old man told me last weekend that of course pegging the diff is a good investment.

Ok you may never use it but if you do use that peg, it could be the 100 quid peg that saves you're 1000 quid axle from getting full of chewed up metal and doing more damage.

If you intend to eventually have full Ashcroft axle and 37s then peg those diffs.

Have a look at Megasquirt-v8.co.uk for diff pegging also, might be cheaper/better.

Certainly is an incredible peg job they do.

Always good to see someone willing to get their wallet out, it's the only way to make things awesome

Cheers again noisy.

Yes the plan is to eventually run full ashcroft axles and 37s (anything smaller is for girls apparently according to one particular person on here). So diff pegging seems like a good idea to me.

Did happen to spot the Underdrive on ashcrofts website and was dribbling at the prospect of possibly fitting that?

And i will have a look at Megasquirts site. Although that may end in tears as i would like to Megasquirt the v8 at some point

I like getting the my wallet out for my disco its probably why im permanently skint!

 

[Mr Noisy]

There was an under drive for sale on LR4x4 recently for £1250!

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=81945

 

[Mr Noisy]

By the way would LOVE and under drive myself, it is the PERFECT option but just too pricey for me!

I mean I spent £1200 on Megasquirt and it is ####ing EPIC but I use it all the time, just couldn't justify £1250 (or more) on an under drive which I wouldn't use all the time, although it is by far the best way to alter your ratios.

Stock CWP will be just fine with pegs, stock transfer case to keep nice high cruiser ratio even with 37s, and all the ability to go super low.

Actually just thinking about it now makes me think 'maybe one day'



You should defo buy that one off LR4x4 though!

 

[discomark10]

Have you not thought about pegging it yourself.. its only a bit of phosphor bronze on the end of some bollts right? Sure ive seen a gide somewhere on how to do it.

 

[Mr Noisy]

Yeah I don't think it's exactly difficult but after talking to Nige from Megasquirt at the weekend he said you're looking at welding 18mm steel to the casting, then it's got to go in the oven for controlled cooling or it will crack, and the phosphor bronze is an ABSOLUTE HORRIBLE BASTARD to machine, so much so that his machine shop will only make large batches for him because they have to stop all the machines after for a days cleaning or something because its such awful stuff.

Very good for diff pegs though

Me personally would pay someone who's done it before, you're not paying for the work, you're paying to not have all the ####ups they have had previously!

 

[robbh]

By the way would LOVE and under drive myself, it is the PERFECT option but just too pricey for me!

I mean I spent £1200 on Megasquirt and it is ####ing EPIC but I use it all the time, just couldn't justify £1250 (or more) on an under drive which I wouldn't use all the time, although it is by far the best way to alter your ratios.

Stock CWP will be just fine with pegs, stock transfer case to keep nice high cruiser ratio even with 37s, and all the ability to go super low.

Actually just thinking about it now makes me think 'maybe one day'



You should defo buy that one off LR4x4 though!

Would love to buy that underdrive but spendingmy money on other things at the moment like a v8 and plenty of steel.

I could justify spending £1600 on a brand spanker just.....' one day'

And i have happened to stumble across your thread of fitting the Megasquirt! Ive gotta say it looks almighty complicated. And have been considering fitting one myself also. But!
Ive never owned a v8 before so will stick to it as is for the meantime as i know pretty much bugger all about the v8.

Back to the diff pegging.

I was going to buy the diff pegging kit from ashcrofts and fit it myself as im pretty handy with a welder.
Noisy now youve said that im having second thoughts.......

Welding it in doesnt look a problem although now you mention the controlled cooling it does make sense. I could see how it could easily crack the casing as its cast right?
Although an 18mm plate does seem a tad overkill.
Surely ashcrofts wouldnt make the kit if it wasnt up to the job?

I would be interested to know if anyone has fitted ashcrofts kit without problems. Whether they have DIY'ed it or had ashcrofts fit it for them.

 

[Mr Noisy]

I have nothing to add at this point!

By the way, might aswell fit MS from the outset, much easier to do it from the start, believe me.

If you're considering it, honestly genuinely do it and you will get so much help from the MS community it's just no big trouble.

Much better than suffering trying to get it tuning right on the old setup and then having to rip it all out again.

Can't really persuade you any more than that!

 

[robbh]

I have nothing to add at this point!

By the way, might aswell fit MS from the outset, much easier to do it from the start, believe me.

If you're considering it, honestly genuinely do it and you will get so much help from the MS community it's just no big trouble.

Much better than suffering trying to get it tuning right on the old setup and then having to rip it all out again.

Can't really persuade you any more than that!

Talk about twisting my arm

But seriously if you reckon start from scratch with it then thats good enough for me.
Ive been reading up about it for the last few weeks since deciding i want a v8 and ive still got a lot to learn!

Going to have to put in some serious amounts of overtime now if i want this thing rolling again anytime soon!

 

[Mr Noisy]

It's a different ball game to diesel but my lr4x4 thread should help a lot, plus if you're stuck just ask me, everyone else does!!

 

[Mr Noisy]

But yeah honestly no point fitting Lucarse stuff just to pull it out again when MS is SO much better anyway.

 

[Mr Noisy]

AND you will learn a lot about your engine whilst doing it.

 

[Mr Noisy]

Ok I'm done now!

 

[robbh]

Hello again everyone.

Not alot has been happening since last week as ive been working a silly amount of hours

However yesterday and today i managed to get a few hours in.

Yesterday engine was completely disconnected ready to be lifted out on friday and picked up Saturday.

As for body repairs im still waiting for the sheet steel to turn up so the front inner wings have been put on hold. But the box section has turnt up so decided to crack on with the sills.

If you look a pics earlier in the thread you can see that they dont look that bad........
That was until i cut off the outer sill on the n/s!

So the inner sills will be cut out now. Also the body mounts are completely knackered too.
After i seen the state of the body mounts i made up 2 new body mounts out of 6mm angle.

Unfortunately only had some 50x75 angle lying about so added another 25mm onto the shorter bit then welded on a triangular piece on either end. All cleaned up ready to weld on.

Quick picture of the mess i make whilst working :jaw:

 

[robbh]

Update.

Engine is now out and gone! And what a PITA the top bolt on the bellhousing is to get at!

Roll on the day the v8 goes in

Took all day so didn't get much else done apart from welding the new body mounts to the new box section sills. But forgot to take pics of that

Tomorrows plans weld in new sill repair parts of floor ive also cut out. And if ive got time drop the gearbox and tranfer box.

 

[discomark10]

know how you feel, its a right bitch the top bolt isnt it!

 

[JonnyP]

Out of interest (mine is now taken off road for work), how did you do the top bolt..? Tools used I mean..

 

[discomark10]

I used a mixture of sockets and fingers

 

[JonnyP]

I used a mixture of sockets and fingers

Sounds painful..!

 

[robbh]

Out of interest (mine is now taken off road for work), how did you do the top bolt..? Tools used I mean..

Literally just a socket set an my fingers! Oh and a breaker bar. 15mm spanner too as theres just enough room between the bulkhead and engine after youve cracked the nut. Then they undo by hand.
Youve gotta drop the engine and gearbox as low as possible just to get enough access even then its tight. Probably took me an hour faffing about just for that one bolt.
The top 3 nuts are a ballache the rest are simples.

 

[robbh]

know how you feel, its a right bitch the top bolt isnt it!

Wont be putting it back on when the engine goes back in thats for sure!