P38A Project Car - 1998 Autobiography Engine Rebuild

Zero compression on cylinders 2 & 4. All the rest are 150-180, but that's cold engine, and no squirts of oil, etc.

Time to start stripping . .

pwood999 said:

Read the faults on Nanocom this evening. Too dark to look further tonight.

• GEMS Engine:
  • P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor Fault. Strange that the engine runs (but badly) with this fault. I thought cam sensor stopped it running ?
  • Cleared the code, but it comes straight back.
• Wabco ABS:
  • Normal wheel rotation on all 4 wheels (why is this logged as fault ?)
• Airbag SPS2:
  • Passenger airbag open circuit.
• EAS:
  • No faults, except the usual "invalid fault"
  • Levelling after ignition off mod will be installed after I fix all the other stuff.
  • Works ok manually in all heights, but calibration seems wrong, because car leans to right.
• HEVAC:
  • No faults or book symbol
  • Fan knob stiff to turn, but auto works.
• BECM:
  • Fuel gauge fault. Need to check the sender voltage, but test mode doesn't work.
  • Other gauges are fine.
  • Reports electric memory seats, but the seats are manual with heaters. At least I now know the BECM supports memory seats. Connectors are present on BECM, but loom is missing.
• Doors:
  • RH Rear is only one working correctly.
  • All others need lock motors & microswitches checking or replacing.

Pete

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Sounds like you've made a start on a few things...

Airbag - open circuit is probably just a loose connection... and then reset on Nanocom

HEVAC - fan knob can be popped off... I'm starting to get into HEVAC pixel repairs, and general unit overhauls and the ones I've seen so far are all gunked up with dust and crud inside, so it might just be a case that it needs a good clean. I am also working on replacement spring and ball-bearing for the bit that makes the fan knob 'click' as I've had a couple that one o both of those bits have been missing on.

BECM - fuel gauge fault could be a few things. Sender or wiring is most likely as it's the main moving part. I have seen a couple where it is the actual gauge that's the problem - and the good news is that if it is, then it can be replaced separately, from another cluster so you don't have to worry about the mileage issues by swapping a whole cluster out. Because the fuel gauge is so heavily damped, so it doesn't jump around with sloshing fuel etc, if you command it on Nanocom to another position then it takes about 30 seconds to start moving - and even then only creeps up/down. You can speed it along by unplugging the instrument cluster (either at BECM or cluster itself) and plugging it back in. When it powers back up it will then jump to where it's been commanded. I had a few conversations with BBS about it a couple of years ago when I found that it didn't respond either - but upon either waiting or unplugging and re-plugging the cluster, it did respond.
- Electric memory seats... All BECM's (to my knowledge) will support memory seats. The black connector under the fuse box for the seat outstation to plug into (correct loom required etc) is on the logic board, and is the serial link for the outstation to communicate (as if memory mirrors are fitted, then the outstation actually stored the positions, not the BECM). The power to electric seats (memory or not) comes off the power board, and again should be able to have the pins inserted where required. The non-memory passenger seat just has a couple of relays to power the different functions on mine, so again should be easy enough to wire in if you change them at any point.

Doors - Sounds like you've got your work cut out for you there... If you aren't wanting to repair the latches yourself, then when I'm back towards the end of June, I've got a bit pile of latches to strip/clean/refurbish so will have some refurb units available again if you are interested!

Marty,
I have a couple of MGF door locks in the garage. Will cannibalise those first, but probably end up buying some more MGF locks and swapping parts around like I did on my other P38. Already unplugged the RF receiver antenna to avoid unnecessary triggering !!

Also, will try the Nanocom on fuel gauge again. Didn't realise it would be that slow. I assumed the dampening would be in the BECM before it feeds the cluster.

Luckily the HEVAC display is fully working - only the knob to fix. Leak test & re-gas will be waiting until all the other stuff is fixed.

To be honest, if you are happy pulling them apart and refurbishing them, then the earlier latches are easy enough to replace the microswitches in, with the exception of the key switch, because of how they made the plunger on the early version., but the door ajar and CDL (in the front doors) switches are easy to replace for newer, waterproof versions. Let me know if you want to go that route, and I can give you the part numbers I use in the latches I rebuild. They are fairly cheap to source (I buy them in batches on 100!)

Depending on how much you can get the MGF latches for, if it is just the motors that are faulty, there is a place on eBay that was selling brand new motors - I think they were just under £20 each, which depending on how old the MGF latches are that you get to strip for parts, may work out the same cost to put brand new motors in.

HEVAC display working is a nice bonus! Though if you ever do need to repair it, I do a replacement connector (non-ribbon) that in theory should be more robust than the original and last a lot longer than the original. But the knob is probably just dust and gunk that is causing it to bind up - all the ones I've had in bits so far have been pretty filthy inside!

Thanks Marty, I will let you know if I need any parts or complete locks. If it's the motors burnt out, I may well go for the replacements. (found the bay listing).
Can you send the microswitch part number just in case ?

You've found motors? There's news. All the ones I found had shafts that were too short.

Here's 'the link: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-ROV...:MK+II&hash=item3abcd1a748:g:ynQAAOSwKtlWsfnr

The ad does say the shaft might need grinding to correct length !!

I'll be. 28 mm is correct IIRC. Last one!

what about these ? https://sklep.denos.pl/pl/p/FC-280SC-20150-wal-62mm/79

pwood999 said:

what about these ? https://sklep.denos.pl/pl/p/FC-280SC-20150-wal-62mm/79

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Certainly look similar. I'd have to pull a motor out and check. There was one on my window sill for ages but it seems to have disappeared. Probably the missus had seen enough of it! Think I made a note of the dimensions somewhere. Cannot recall where though!

I think the shaft length on the P38 motors is somewhere between 26 and 28mm - I bought a motor which had a slightly different configuration of wiring contacts etc - but was a long shaft version or about 25mm - and the electrical connections aside, it was still too short.

The motor linked to above I think is what I bought, but from a UK seller on eBay - the electrical connections are at the wrong end - they need to be at long end of the shaft. I wondered about pressing the shaft all the way through the motor to address that - but then I think it would spin the wrong way - so lock would be unlock and vice versa.

I don't bother buying new motors for the latches I rebuild - £20 a motor, plus £5 in microswitches doesn't make it worth rebuilding them when I factor in my time to strip, clean, check, rebuild, and refit new switches. - not when I only sell them for £45! I did ask the eBay seller if they would do a bulk deal, but they would only give me a trade discount if I were buying 100 plus motors... which I don't have that kind of money lying about to do!! Frustrating when a 'normal' motor of that size (even the long shaft one that wouldn't work) are about £5 each... must be because its for a Range Rover!

martyuk said:

The motor linked to above I think is what I bought, but from a UK seller on eBay - the electrical connections are at the wrong end - they need to be at long end of the shaft. I wondered about pressing the shaft all the way through the motor to address that - but then I think it would spin the wrong way - so lock would be unlock and vice versa.

Click to expand...

I bought a similar motor from Canada for about $5. Kicked myself for not checking the position of the electrical contacts. Think they were the other end of the motor. Either way, they were in the wrong place and after a bit of head-scratching I chucked it in a box. Bound to fit somewhere oneday!

Just found a box of Omega parts if anyone wants them ... !!!

Is that the 2.5 diesel omega

brianp38dse said:

Is that the 2.5 diesel omega

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No, those parts would be staying with me! Off a mix of petrol 2.5 CD and 2.6 CDX, mainly the latter.

So back on the original topic . . . . . .finally got time this evening to take the o/s head off. That rear exhaust bolt is a bitch, but did it without removing steering shaft or heat shield !! What socket size are the head bolts ? My old 5/8" seemed to fit best, but gotta buy new socket for the replacements.

Some of the head bolts were definitely not torqued properly. . . but not around the dodgy cylinders. Never seen a head gasket blown like this before.
Still gotta clean up and see if there's any other damage . . . but that's another day. 2 pics attached for your entertainment.

pwood999 said:

So back on the original topic . . . . . .finally got time this evening to take the o/s head off. That rear exhaust bolt is a bitch, but did it without removing steering shaft or heat shield !! What socket size are the head bolts ? My old 5/8" seemed to fit best, but gotta buy new socket for the replacements.

Some of the head bolts were definitely not torqued properly. . . but not around the dodgy cylinders. Never seen a head gasket blown like this before.
Still gotta clean up and see if there's any other damage . . . but that's another day. 2 pics attached for your entertainment.

View attachment 100314 View attachment 100315

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Yep. 5/8". All imperial.

I know the bolt. How the hell did you manage that without moving the steering shaft or lifting the engine?

MrGorsky is round the corner from you and just did his head gasket. Might have a few tools?

Grrrrrrrr, Used a deep 12-point 12mm socket with a right angle fixed wrench, plus 8" of steel tube to start it off. Then same socket with 1/4 adapter, and a small 1/4 ratchet to slowly turn it out. I guess the steering shaft will have to come off to torque it back up.

Got 99.9% of the tools I need, but watch this space. Definitely need a 3/8 extension that is approx. 11-13mm shorter than the one I have for that bolt !!

I'm also noting down each part I disconnect in order, so I can reverse the sequence later. . . . .especially the hard to reach & LPG bits. Car is lowered to bumps stops, but I'm a short-arse so reaching some bits is a challenge. At least I have a method to raise & lower the EAS on garage air & Nanocom.

Picture showing tools used for lower rear exhaust bolt. Steel tube was only used to get the bolt started.

Good effort. MrGorsky's was so corroded they all needed serious welly to get them out. I think we just ground or chiselled some of the hear shield ones.

Incidentally, not all his head bolts were that tight. Seems normal that some loosen up. Split one of my sockets getting one off though.