Project 1989 90 (Bruce)

well it was an early start this morning, chassis arrived at 5.30am looks good nicely finished can't really say more until i start the assembly. after struggling trying to flip it over (one my own) i resorted to the engine crane then got it coated in the mordant solution, the plan is to get it painted ready to offer up the axles at the weekend. pics
delivered

umm how to turn it over ?????



hanging





back in the garage ready for etch primer.


Sam

Defender-Sam said:

Sam

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That looks lovely

Galv porn... Don't spray it! Lol

Very pleasing on the eye !!

Why are you spraying it ? So it dunt get nicked ?

yes jason the only reason to spray it is to make it look sort of standard and not to advertise the amount of work and money that has gone into it, even tho it kind of defeats the object by putting it on here. but oh well Sam

Won't the big RC give it away?

well yeah they would if they were underneath it specifically looking for the logo but I'm guessing its going to be difficult to see once the tub is on.
Sam

They stick a torch under it and it sends out a big RC bat signal to all the local scrots.

i'm jealous

Defender-Sam said:

even tho it kind of defeats the object by putting it on here. but oh well Sam

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Can thieving scum read ?

I got some rock sliders that I made galvanised but I did'nt prep them for paint so the first time I power washed the old girl I blew all the hamerite off them

well yes jason thats why I used the t wash solution, etch prime, red oxide then will finish it tomorrow with some gloss black. all being well it will stay on for quite a while, well fingers crossed anyway.... Sam

Yeh I know ! My fault, spent so long making the bloody things that I just could'nt be bothered farting around-Just wanted to get them on the vehicle!

Lesson learned

Defender-Sam said:

well yes jason thats why I used the t wash solution, etch prime, red oxide then will finish it tomorrow with some gloss black. all being well it will stay on for quite a while, well fingers crossed anyway.... Sam

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Wow, going all out with the protection

Out of interest I thought it was Twash OR Etch. Also galv is a zinc coating and the zinc needs to be in contact with the metal to enable it to be sacrificial. So sticking red oxide (zinc phosphate) on the etch primer is a waste of time isn't it? (also I think zinc rich would offer better protection than red oxide)

Anyway, it should last a long time

trax said:

Wow, going all out with the protection

Out of interest I thought it was Twash OR Etch. Also galv is a zinc coating and the zinc needs to be in contact with the metal to enable it to be sacrificial. So sticking red oxide (zinc phosphate) on the etch primer is a waste of time isn't it? (also I think zinc rich would offer better protection than red oxide)

Anyway, it should last a long time

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T-wash (often called mordant solution) is required to 'age' new galvanising and to removing certain greases that the metal is impregnated with during the galv process. If you are painting old galvanising that has weathered then you can just use etch primer straight on.

When I painted my galvanised chassis, Richard's told me to use T-wash, then an etch primer (hammerite special metals primer is much cheaper ) then top coat, I went for hammerite again due to having a lot of it in the shed.

I've not had much experience with zinc rich primer, however when I painted some suspension parts with it, I found that it would chip much easier than red oxide... a year later only half the primer was left so I stripped it back and used red oxide instead That could just be down to the make of paint I used however.

Had a wee google to get this straight in my head,

• Zinc phosphate (modern red/grey oxide) seems to be inhibitive. So you put a coat on to protect the metal like any other paint. Doesn't need to be directly on metal.
  
• Zinc rich is for cathodic sacrificial protection and must be applied directly to the metal.
  
• You can convert rust or etch steel using a phosphoric acid wash which leaves behind a iron phosphate layer. Turns black and wash excess acid off before painting.
  
• Acid will strip galv if left long enough.
  
• Don't use alkyd paints directly on zinc as this reacts and peels off. Use an epoxy or acrylic system instead.

Galv with zinc rich: Zinc rich on a galv frame (why would you bother?) you would t-wash, and then zinc rich (no etch primer), top coat.

Galv without zinc rich: t-wash, etch, top coat.

Rusty steel: wire rust, phosphoric acid (turns black), wash off, zinc rich or whatever you fancy, top coat

Non rusty steel: etch primer, top coat
or
Non rusty steel: acid wash (phosphoric would do), primer, top coat

Is this right? I've done the phosphoric acid, zinc rich combo before on rust and it seems to be working well.. so far

Boris 113 have you posted your method before?, i did some research on here before painting my chassis and came across that method and so i followed it only applying the red oxide between the etch and top coat, as i either read or was told that its not recommended to top coat directly after etch primer so used the red oxide to bridge between the two. either way i can't see it being much of a problem.
pics
i have already posted the t washed chassis pic and completely forgot to get one of it etched so onto the red oxide,


finishing coat of gloss black,




appologies for the terrible pics taken on my phone.:tea:

with galv the old system was to mordant solution t-wash then use zinc phosphate primer followed by undercoat, top coat. Now there are a few paints that go straight to galv most are water based bedec msp for one,jotun also do products that will go straight to galv.Dulux do a metalshield water based qd primer then solvent based top coat it's expensive but you only need three coats(one under two top) not four, two products not four. Dulux metalshield can be mixed to various colours.

right then i have had a fairly productive day today, now have a rolling chassis ready for some more work tomorrow.
pics

new springs fitted all round

new rear shocks fitted waiting for the front turrets from richards so only rear shocks at the minute. All suspension bolts will be tightened fully when theres some load on the bushes.

towbar fitted needs finishing tomorrow,

one more

thanks for looking.

That looks bloody awesome. Can you not just stick an engine and seat in and drive it like that?